Differences in PFP chambers

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
Both @CrazyJoesRacing and I got brand new PFPs last week and are surprised that even though they were ordered at the same time are significantly different, Joe's came first and we noticed that the ID of the chamber ends both manifold and box end had a rather thick sloppy weld around the inside that really needed some cleaning up, a few days later mine showed up, both ends were clean of weld on the inside but the manifold end on my chamber was completely different from his and I have never seen one like it before, seems as if it was a machined piece with grooves for extra O-rings... I understand from past drypipe experiences (type 9, riva, etc) not all are totally the same but im curious to see if anyone else has this style manifold end or if this is something new?
received_1427874640559628.jpeg
 

JetManiac

Stoked
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Location
orlando
That is the 'competition' style that they made a few of for testing but it must have gotten sold since stock is supply is so tight this time of year.
 
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mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
That is the 'competition' stlye that they made a few of for testing but it must have gotten sold since stock is supply is so tight this time of year.
Very interesting, wonder what exactly makes it "competition"? And yeah the stock supply explains why hot products only had 1 and I had to wait for mine

Sent from your local meth lab
 
Similar to this topic- does anyone else have the PFP O-rings break or disintegrate? I finally replaced my original o-ring after maybe 2 years because only 20% of it was still present. I bought a pack of new ones, put one in, and within a couple rides, it's already split and starting to break... The o-ring on my pipe is there to prevent the manifold from banging against the pipe, I don't have those additional grooves like the pipe pictured here.
 

SpaceCowboy

breaking something
Similar to this topic- does anyone else have the PFP O-rings break or disintegrate? I finally replaced my original o-ring after maybe 2 years because only 20% of it was still present. I bought a pack of new ones, put one in, and within a couple rides, it's already split and starting to break... The o-ring on my pipe is there to prevent the manifold from banging against the pipe, I don't have those additional grooves like the pipe pictured here.

Yep that's common, my last two setups I didn't use them. I had perfect alignment and they still break due to heat.
 

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
Similar to this topic- does anyone else have the PFP O-rings break or disintegrate? I finally replaced my original o-ring after maybe 2 years because only 20% of it was still present. I bought a pack of new ones, put one in, and within a couple rides, it's already split and starting to break... The o-ring on my pipe is there to prevent the manifold from banging against the pipe, I don't have those additional grooves like the pipe pictured here.
In my past experience with the type 9, the coupler was too long so the oring wasn't seating against the manifold surface so the exhaust blow by was cooking the oring and blowing the coupler, I'd measure the coupler length and coupler surface lenght, shaved just a 1/4 inch off the coupler and never had the problem again

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on the old pipes without the groove, all you had to do was take a short piece of hose that fit over that nipple, grind off the first layer down to the reinforcement, to make it smaller, and then it takes up the slop when it slips into the manifold. keeps the chamber from moving side to side so much, making metal to metal contact and putting excess stress on the coupler. figured that out when that pipe first came out
 

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
on the old pipes without the groove, all you had to do was take a short piece of hose that fit over that nipple, grind off the first layer down to the reinforcement, to make it smaller, and then it takes up the slop when it slips into the manifold. keeps the chamber from moving side to side so much, making metal to metal contact and putting excess stress on the coupler. figured that out when that pipe first came out
If that's what the grooves are for I'm suprised they don't throw in extra orings for it, I mean I can get some from the place out by me that makes them but atleast if pfp supplied them you know they're the right size

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extra? you mean supply Orings? they should be included in a new pipe kit and if they aren't, that aint cool. you can clearly use the pipe without them and then its just like the old pipes. or you can make a sleeve instead of use Orings. the sleeve lasts forever. I would still have my original sleeve but a TNT chamber didn't like the sleeve and spit it out my tail pipe.
 

mr.fixitman760

if it aint broke, dont fix it
Location
St. Clair, MI
extra? you mean supply Orings? they should be included in a new pipe kit and if they aren't, that aint cool. you can clearly use the pipe without them and then its just like the old pipes. or you can make a sleeve instead of use Orings. the sleeve lasts forever. I would still have my original sleeve but a TNT chamber didn't like the sleeve and spit it out my tail pipe.
Yeah It would make sense to include them like the older pipes like the sxr that came with 3 orings, given it needed them to function but it would still be nice if they were part of the hardware kit, atleast then you know when you mount it it's in and tight, I had to line mine up without the coupler on to make sure the oring surface was seating properly so I wasn't blowing through them like on the type 9

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Location
denmark
I have the old style chamber and run it with a 2 inch 5 layer silicone hose where you have the gromes, i took one layer off for better fit it helps with heat/alignment and it dosent hit the manifolde
 
In my past experience with the type 9, the coupler was too long so the oring wasn't seating against the manifold surface so the exhaust blow by was cooking the oring and blowing the coupler, I'd measure the coupler length and coupler surface lenght, shaved just a 1/4 inch off the coupler and never had the problem again

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Correct..
 
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