Different types of JetWorks valves?

Prem1x

Tinkering obsessed
Location
Austin, TX
I wound up with one from Pro-tec and one from RogueJets and they are a little different externally. Besides the color, the nut on the red one is larger and the outer shell extends from the other direction.

Did Art change his design on these? Should I be aware of some techinical differences?
 

Attachments

  • jw_fcv_compare.jpg
    jw_fcv_compare.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 85

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
I believe the red one is the version that requires shims to adjust pop off. I use them on all my boats. Keeping the waterbox dry is especially good for freeride/freestyle boats as well as race boats.:biggthumpup:

Charles
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
*edit* Damn i nthe time I read and typed.... I need a faster conecction haha

From what I have seen the red ones you have to put diffrent washers in to ajust it, and the blue you just twist to ajust....

Any one want to verify that....
 
Last edited:

Cane700

Broken Jetskiier
Location
Chicago, IL
*edit* Damn i nthe time I read and typed.... I need a faster conecction haha

From what I have seen the red ones you have to put diffrent washers in to ajust it, and the blue you just twist to ajust....

Any one want to verify that....

Yep that's right. Red uses the shims and blue is the dial and go. Word of caution for anyone planning to used this mod. If you ride in an area where you have to idle for long periods, you will start melting couplers if your not prepared. This is a good competition mod. If your rec riding, the gain isn't worth the risk IMO. A good high flow waterbox will do the same job with less risk to your ski.
 

crammit442

makin' legs
Location
here
Yep that's right. Red uses the shims and blue is the dial and go. Word of caution for anyone planning to used this mod. If you ride in an area where you have to idle for long periods, you will start melting couplers if your not prepared. This is a good competition mod. If your rec riding, the gain isn't worth the risk IMO. A good high flow waterbox will do the same job with less risk to your ski.

I've used them for years with no hose melting issues. The key is to set it up correctly so that it is open when you need it to be. A high flow waterbox will still have to be blown clear of excess water when the throttle is snapped open so it will not have give the same results as a properly set up FC valve. (IMO:smile:)

Charles
 

Boris

The Good Old Days
2500-3000 rpm

At idle there is very little heat being made by the exhaust,never had a problem with the Blaster or HX just braaaap the throttle a little when idiling.:Banane01:

:biggthumpup:

The one in my couch is set at 2800 rpm and even after a tank full of idle (water party/water fight) all hoses were A-OK.

A Braap every now and then should cool things down nicely.
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
I like to use the red ones with the shims ( I don't run any shims in the valve on my set-ups) That way I don't have to worry about if it's adjusted right for every customers motor and can make them foolproof on tuning in the horsepower and always runs spot on when shipping motors all over the country...(World now!)
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Yep the red one uses shims to set "popoff",the blue one you screw in or out to set "popoff":smile:

I like the blue one better.

hmmmmmmmmm the one I had was blue, you changed out washers to adjust, the red was the one that you twisted.......... look at the shape.......... Blue, the "Nut" size is smaller, Red, Larger.......... Maybe they changed.
 
Last edited:

yamahammer

are you men the police?
Location
San Angelo, TX
I have a red one on my sj and a blue one on my b1. They both adjusted by shims and from what I can see have worked exactly the same. When I ordered the blue one I thought it would be externally adjustable (although I never have actually messed with its adjustment) but it is not. Just different color and a little bigger externally.
 
Top Bottom