Do I need this????

[QuickMick]

should?

care to rephrase? :biggrin:

I don't have the siphon bilge in either of my skis, but they both have dual bilge pumps.

What part didnt you understand?

 

[steve-uk]

Somebody will have to show me how the benefits of dual cooling outweigh the benefits of the stock bilge system. (with a 701) . I understand that big bores and strokers might need the dual cooling and sacrifice the stock eductor as a result. But at this point, to me, the stock bilge is more important than being able to say to my buds, "hey man, I've got dual cooling".

once you do motor mods, normally when you get to an a/m head dual cooling is pretty much required as your motor is starting to run hotter,, plus its more efficient with dual cooling.. and most likely with an a/m head you have had to remove the over heat sensor too....

Do tell.......:Banane01:


Having two bilges is nice. My electric bilges like to clog so it's nice to have a backup

if you run your bilges constantly (which most of us do) they actually dont like to run dry and will give a "clogged" affect, normally turning them off then back on again will solve this..

if you truely are clogging them then you need to clean your hull...

i actually run dual bilges and a scupper... the hood seal on my REV sucks big time (need a new one) i do a short fountain and the bilges work their a s s off... even with forward motion to engage the scupper (which on tthe REV has a one way valve so you dont fill up with when you are stationary as can happen with straight up scuppers when the rubber wear) it takes 10-20 seconds to see the bilge out lets run dry

 

[steve-uk]

if you take it out and dont run dual cooling to have to block it or seal it off otherwise... yes.. water will come in

there is another option...

.. you can use it for coloured fountains.....:scratchchin:






:27:




.

Do tell.......:Banane01:


Having two bilges is nice. My electric bilges like to clog so it's nice to have a backup

reverse the theory of how the stock bilge works and your half way there

 

[The Penguin]

if you do remove it, you should put in a electric bilge in its place.

should?

care to rephrase? :biggrin:

What part didnt you understand?

there's a difference between "should" and "need to"

:biggrin:

 

[dbrutherford]

if you take it out and dont run dual cooling to have to block it or seal it off otherwise... yes.. water will come in

there is another option...

.. you can use it for coloured fountains.....:scratchchin:






:27:




.

So that's how they do it! duh! Ah I am too lazy to rig up anything like that...


I leave mine in. Extra insurance in case your electric bilge craps out.

 

[steve-uk]

thats only part of how to do it.. the rest is a secret ....



unless you know how to do it..lol

 

[Indyxc]

How is the attachement to the pump where the siphon hooks up going to work for dual cooling?

If you hook up a hose to the siphon it will draw water out, not in. It isn't a water pressurize port.

 

[steve-uk]

How is the attachement to the pump where the siphon hooks up going to work for dual cooling?

If you hook up a hose to the siphon it will draw water out, not in. It isn't a water pressurize port.

you dont leave the set up as it is... you have to hook up the other end to the pump.... so it works the same as the existing cooling does by drawing water from the pump into the engine

 

[Cliff]

the factory bilge is junk. they let more water in than they get out.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

the factory bilge is junk. they let more water in than they get out.

Maybe junk, but requires no electricity. If it's letting water in, chances are that you've taken out the 90 degree fitting and layed the line down lower than the water line. It normally runs right up to the upper engine compartment, then takes a u-turn back down.
The reason it's set up this way is to keep the line above the water line so water won't come in.

 

[Fro Diesel]

Yes definately keep that. Its the stock bilge syphon and it continually removes water from your hull as long as the motor is running. The hole thats in it will not hurt anything (unless it somehow sucks in some debris from your hull interior that blocks the syphon line) If you choose to run an aftermarket bilge pump, it should be used along side the stock syphon.

EDIT: isn't it only when you are moving forward, thus drawing water through the pump and creating the syphon. :27:

 

[Dustin Mustangs]

Water is moving through the pump anytime it's in the water and the engine is running, so technically no, the ski doesn't have to be moving forward. The faster the velocity of water through the pump (ie the higher the engine speed) the faster it removes water. At idle I'd bet it is doing little to nothing.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

The thing I can't figure out is why the hoses were engineered so small. The force of the pump is sufficient to draw on a much bigger line. Hence, could remove more water more quickly. I'm sure there's a reason.

And as far as being "junk" ..... The "eductor" method of creating suction is almost failsafe. As long as water can be driven past the point of eduction. Except for those running total loss, your battery can be dead and you will be pumping out all the way to the beach.

 

[Cliff]

Maybe junk, but requires no electricity. If it's letting water in, chances are that you've taken out the 90 degree fitting and layed the line down lower than the water line. It normally runs right up to the upper engine compartment, then takes a u-turn back down.
The reason it's set up this way is to keep the line above the water line so water won't come in.

maybe so, not doubting you. ever water leak i ever had was there. i use mine for dual cooling and run a duckbill. no need for a bilge. works great and the duckbill also uses no electricity and flows a lot faster than the factory bilge ever thought about.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

maybe so, not doubting you. ever water leak i ever had was there. i use mine for dual cooling and run a duckbill. no need for a bilge. works great and the duckbill also uses no electricity and flows a lot faster than the factory bilge ever thought about.

I wish I knew what a duckbill was. And if you're using the line for dual cooling, then the point is mute. Is a duckbill a scupper?

All the guys I know with scuppers have to use scissor stands or they fill up while beached partially in the water.

In another week or so I'll also have dual cooling and most likely no stock bilge. But for the folks not yet modded to that point I believe the stock bilge is a good thing.

Answer to myself...post #33- Maybe a bigger line would introduce too much air into the pump area causing cavitation?

 

[Idok]

once you do motor mods, normally when you get to an a/m head dual cooling is pretty much required as your motor is starting to run hotter,, plus its more efficient with dual cooling.. and most likely with an a/m head you have had to remove the over heat sensor too....



if you run your bilges constantly (which most of us do) they actually dont like to run dry and will give a "clogged" affect, normally turning them off then back on again will solve this..

if you truely are clogging them then you need to clean your hull...

i actually run dual bilges and a scupper... the hood seal on my REV sucks big time (need a new one) i do a short fountain and the bilges work their a s s off... even with forward motion to engage the scupper (which on tthe REV has a one way valve so you dont fill up with when you are stationary as can happen with straight up scuppers when the rubber wear) it takes 10-20 seconds to see the bilge out lets run dry

sounds like you are running rule 500's......


the 500's cavitate when running all the time, then will hook up if you shut it off and back on...

the 360's do NOT do this

 

[Cliff]

kind of but not really. some people run them on sxr s and seadoos. its only 1 inch. its a black flapper type thing that looks like a ducks bill. i believe atlantis makes them. they was one for sell on here a few weeks back also.

 

[Cliff]

The thing I can't figure out is why the hoses were engineered so small. The force of the pump is sufficient to draw on a much bigger line. Hence, could remove more water more quickly. I'm sure there's a reason.

And as far as being "junk" ..... The "eductor" method of creating suction is almost failsafe. As long as water can be driven past the point of eduction. Except for those running total loss, your battery can be dead and you will be pumping out all the way to the beach.

hell, i run total loss too. got a good battery. ill agree, on a pretty much stock boat and your not going under to much, they work. just slowly. im not here to jaw with you, my opion was theyre junk and ill stand by it. different strokes for different folks i guess. far as the duckbill, www.atlantisenterprises.com

 

[WFO Speedracer]

The 300 SX has only the factory bilge in it,I will let you in on a little secret though,While I was defoaming it I slipped in a much larger bilge tube off of an old Kawi sit down and I used the large tubing and pickup from the sitdown to hook up to the tube.On Kawis there is a special hose that hooks up to the large bilge tube coming out of the hull and necks down to the smaller sized fitting on the exit nozzle ,this setup works like a champ,engine comp stays dry as a bone.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

The 300 SX has only the factory bilge in it,I will let you in on a little secret though,While I was defoaming it I slipped in a much larger bilge tube off of an old Kawi sit down and I used the large tubing and pickup from the sitdown to hook up to the tube.On Kawis there is a special hose that hooks up to the large bilge tube coming out of the hull and necks down to the smaller sized fitting on the exit nozzle ,this setup works like a champ,engine comp stays dry as a bone.

I had a feeling! But when the engine compartment is dry, do you notice any problem with air/cavitation? It's well behind the impellor, but still?