do i need to put anything between the case halves?

[DAG]

Why not put 1211 in crank seal groves?

 

[BruceSki]

Grease where seal rides crank. That's it

 

[DAG]

Yes, you grease the ID but whats the disadvantage to 1211 the OD for crank seals?

 

[227]

To the OP- Also coat your case bolt threads with 1211 before assembly. Coat every other bolt thread with Antisieze. When you have to disassemble, you'll be glad you did. Lock tight never touches my ski. (I ride 100% salt so I'm all about the overkill maintenance)

To every one else more knowledgeable than me. I have always removed couplers by removing the plug and sticking a few feet of soft cotton rope down the rear cylinder, then heating the coupler and removing it with a 4' cheater bar. This has always worked perfectly. Does anybody know if this method can cause damage to the crank? (Compressing wrist pin bearings, etc....)

 

[OCD Solutions]

I have used the rope trick, the threaded stops that install in the plug holes and contact the top of the piston and now the CF flywheel lock. I haven't had any issues with any one of them and will use whichever one suits the particular instance. All 3 are viable options.

 

[VXSXH20]

HondaBond here as well. 1211 is excellent too, Just easier to find Hondabond at my local deal close by. Also OP If your running a Girdled head, put some around all the girdle studs where they go into the cases. that way the water cant get down inside the holes and threads and cause corrosion. Any RTV works for this too.

 

[jetpilot36]

there is two types of hondabond the high temp and hondabond 4. which one?

 

[Freakrider]

Hondabond 4.

 

[jetpilot36]

That's the one I got. The 1211 was more than twice as much.

 

[Sparkplug]

Any of the sealants mentioned will work fine to seal the cases.

For couplers, and props ive always just heated the piss out of them and they have all came off super easy. Not a fight at all. Never had any issues from the heat either, I let them cool slowly tho. I have large torches tho, with a variety of tips, so I can put sme serious heat to something very fast. Helps a lot.

 

[jetpilot36]

great! i think i have all the info i need to pu the crank back in. looks like there are two seals in the rear and one on the front. im not sure how old those seals are. so ill probably get some more seals. do i need 3?

 

[Harbor]

great! i think i have all the info i need to pu the crank back in. looks like there are two seals in the rear and one on the front. im not sure how old those seals are. so ill probably get some more seals. do i need 3?

Yes 3 and the rear two get installed in a particular order and a particular side of each seal faces the PTO coupler.

 

[Freakrider]

Yes 3 seals, buy oem only. The front and rear seal have nubs that face outward. Remember " Tits face outward. "

 

[Harbor]

I just separated a set of case halves from a gp1200r and found they used a red product that has remained almost jelly like. It still smears with a finger but it forms a thick glob that won't come off and get stuck in the crank or piston skirt like other gasket makers can.

I normally use 1211 but I'm liking how this red stuff sets up as it poses much less risk of bits coming free inside the cases if you happen to put on too much.

Is this one of the already mentioned products or have the cases been spot since the factory build it and I'm looking at whatever some backyard mechanic used to put it back together? It certainly looked like a factory sealed engine to me but I could be wrong.

We use that red anaerobic sealer at work on manual trans cases halves, PTO's case, rear power drive modules case, front power drive modules, a few different engines timing covers, engine block bed plates, it works good, never any leaks from it. A lot of these applications don't have much case internal pressure or vacuum
though