Do you need the overheat sensor?

WDKfan

Workin too much
i was wondering what bad thi9ngs may happen if I remove the over heat sensor, because I just got a girdle kit for my pro-tec head and it looks like the sensor will be removed when the girdle kit is put on.

*Can I instal the girdle kit with out tearing down the motor?
 

meatball

User Title Unavailable
Location
Maryland
nothing bad will happen past not having an overheat sensor. Last time mine went off though, I 'smelled' it before it went off. You can just cut it off and cover the wire in liquid electrical tape for now if you dont wanna open up the e-box.

I like having the overheat sensor as a failsafe, but I'd remove it if I had an ADA head.

Most people run without one even when they dont 'have' to, I dont see why take it off if the head accepts it.
 

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
Nothing....its no big deal. As long as you can see plenty of water coming out the pisser....your fine

You dont have to tear down anything to put a head on. Remove the 10 head bolts and put them aside, remove the 6 case/cylinder bolts, put on studs, put head on, hand tighten all bolts and acorn nuts, then start the 2 or 3 step torque process
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
if the head has a spot for it use it, i've seen several skis motors kick the heat sensor on and limp back to shore without damaging anything vs a overheated stuck motor. P.S. mine is removed but only because ada heads don't use it. You get used to keeping an eye on the pissers.
 

meatball

User Title Unavailable
Location
Maryland
To be honest with you. the last time I overheated, I smelled my motor overheating before the sensor kicked on. And BTW, it was pissing fine, I had a stock exhaust and the elbow had a loose worm gear. I say just keep an air freshner taped on to the cylinder, when you smelling burning pine trees, just shut it off :smile:

Oh yeah, there was smoke coming out of my vents before the sensor kicked in.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
i think i would rather have a sensor tell me if my motor is too hot over a "smell". my friends ski kept having the overheat sensor kick in, after i went over his cooling lines i discovered it was not flowing properly but the pisser looked like it was. If he removed his sensor he would have toasted something from the heat. Its a saftey feature that alot of us don't use but it is still a good thing, there is no performance benifit to remove it and i wouldn't take it off my car so if you can use it, use it.
 

meatball

User Title Unavailable
Location
Maryland
thats what I was getting at, I smelled it before the sensor kicked in. Now I know the sensor is more attention getting (especially if your friend rides it!!!), however it's not that necessary. If the head allows for it though, no reason not to run it unless its broke.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
thats what I was getting at, I smelled it before the sensor kicked in. Now I know the sensor is more attention getting (especially if your friend rides it!!!), however it's not that necessary. If the head allows for it though, no reason not to run it unless its broke.

NO! thats what i was getting at!!!:biggrin: we agree! :woot:
if my ada head had a spot for it i would put it back on. I don't think my ski has ever overheated but i guess i wouldn't know without the sensor. And yeah if you loan out your ski, nothing would make you happier than your buddy riding back to shore in limp mode oblivious to the fact that a pump line came off and your motor isn't cooling. Yamaha put it on for a reason i am thinking.
 
I wouldn't cut the wire completely back though. By switching one of the connections on that wire you can turn it into a power source for running a bilge pump.

Whats nice about doing that is that whenever the engine is running the bilge pump will be running so you don't have to worry about a NOOB riding your ski and forgetting to turn the pump on or you forgetting to turn the pump on for them.

Then you also can have a second bilge pump connected to a switch so you can manually turn the pump on when the engine is off or if you have a lot of water in the boat when riding and you want two pumps to quickly pump it out.
 

meatball

User Title Unavailable
Location
Maryland
depending on the nature of the cooling malfunction, limp mode still allows it to seize. I rode back to shore for 15 seconds in limp mode, and it took 30 minutes before I could touch the engine without buring my hands, and put the cooling line back on (fell off, and is all the way in the bottom of compartment, I burnt myself a few times!)
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
yeah i did that with my old sxi. i tipped the ski and let some water cool it then got the waterline back on and started it back up to get the water flowing. scary hot!!!
 

WDKfan

Workin too much
I just finshed installing the girdle kit and I'm going to TRY to get my type 4 pipe back in:banghead: any suggestions on the best way to get it in there?
 

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onesojourner

I use a thumb throttle.
Location
springfield, mo
that's a beautiful piece of information! :arms: :hail:

I wouldn't cut the wire completely back though. By switching one of the connections on that wire you can turn it into a power source for running a bilge pump.

Whats nice about doing that is that whenever the engine is running the bilge pump will be running so you don't have to worry about a NOOB riding your ski and forgetting to turn the pump on or you forgetting to turn the pump on for them.

Then you also can have a second bilge pump connected to a switch so you can manually turn the pump on when the engine is off or if you have a lot of water in the boat when riding and you want two pumps to quickly pump it out.
 
I wouldn't cut the wire completely back though. By switching one of the connections on that wire you can turn it into a power source for running a bilge pump.

Whats nice about doing that is that whenever the engine is running the bilge pump will be running so you don't have to worry about a NOOB riding your ski and forgetting to turn the pump on or you forgetting to turn the pump on for them.

Then you also can have a second bilge pump connected to a switch so you can manually turn the pump on when the engine is off or if you have a lot of water in the boat when riding and you want two pumps to quickly pump it out.

where would you connect the wire, in the box, to get a 12vdc supply for a bilge pump for only when the engine is running?
 
where would you connect the wire, in the box, to get a 12vdc supply for a bilge pump for only when the engine is running?

Not sure yet. :biggrin:

This was actually suggested to me by another board member and I was planning on doing it if I ever get the time to install my MSD Enhancer when I'm at home in Florida.

There was an MSD Enhancer thread a while back that I started that someone explained what wire to hook the positive up to.

Right now I just have my overheat sensor wire cut back and dangling until I'm in the ebox and ready to hook it up the right way.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
i wonder if it can be used as the holeshot feature. hold that connection to keep the motor revs down and release to take off? i think the enhancer has a holeshot feature and this is probably how it works???
 
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