Does anyone have any experience from upgrading from a 60T to a 60T-10 Exhaust Ring Joint on a GP1200R?

[FoulFowl]

I have seen a forum thread on greenhulk claiming there’s a 75-100 RPM gain from the upgrade but, I’m curious if anyone has any experience if it’s an actual noticeable upgrade.

I’ve managed to pick one up myself for around $50 and the claim of 75-100 extra RPM seems to be from people ‘feeling more power’.

I noticed there’s a number of them listed at around $250 for the pipe and curious if it’s worth doing again on another ski.

I also noticed a number of them claiming 60T-10 pipes are in fact just plain 60T pipes so there’s that to look out for if you’re buying one.

The original post I’m referring to is here and shows side by side comparisons to the 60T and 60T-10 exhaust ring joint pipes.
(They’re normally silver and the dead giveaway is the flat bit on the bottom.)

GP1200R and GP1300R (05 and up non PV) Ring Joint Difference with pictures

I stumbled across a few posts about the ring joint being different on the 05 and up GP1300R (non power valve) and possible performance gains when used on the power valve engine 1200 and 1300. So I bought one on eBay shipped to my door for 50 bucks. I also noticed on eBay some sellers dont...

greenhulk.net

60T-10 is the pipe on the right, it’s been painted black, but does in fact look thicker/stubby.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Seat of the pants would you even be able to feel a 100 RPM gain ?

 

[mthomps]

Seat of the pants would you even be able to feel a 100 RPM gain ?

About as much difference as combing your hair in a slightly more polished mirror

 

[WB800BLASTER]

are you posting on greenhulk.net ? lots of GPR peeps there.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

100 RPM = 10 MPH

 

[FoulFowl]

Seat of the pants would you even be able to feel a 100 RPM gain ?

Yeah it just seems like people are full of it tbh when a ride plate and intake grate upgrade barely gives 5mph top speed, per part, it just leads me to believe that someone noticed a difference in sizes in the 1200R and specific 1300Rs and decided to up charge claiming it’s a ‘rare upgrade’

I’m supposed to receive the 60T-10 pipe sometime tomorrow and I’ll post actual measurements of the diameter/blow up a balloon in each one to see if there’s actually a noticeable difference.

That original post with side by side pictures could just be someone’s elaborate scheme to raise prices on a exhaust ring joint pipe. As there are no measurements of anything in it and just claims that it ‘gave more power’.

I have yet to see anyone make a video showing top speed and performance on a 60T pipe then a swap to a 60T-10 pipe in the same video and test on the exact same ski/exact same water conditions + on top of all that it would likely have a higher compression than the 60T pipe.

I’ll likely purchase a Go Pro and record a side by side comparison video like that as I highly doubt it would take me more than 5-10 minutes to swap the pipe mid video. Seems like it’s the only true way to tell if it actually does anything like they claim.

Just seems extremely suspect to me that the ones selling the pipe for $250 + shipping post this in their description.


It just seems suspect and if it’s truly adding 75-100RPM 7.5-10 mph… why is RIVA/anyone not making an aftermarket ring joint?

Just seems too good to be true is all I’m trying to say and seems suspect without any proof backing it up.

Now when I do said test it’s not going to be perfect as the 60T-10 pipe I got for $50 has the start of some reversion but, it shouldn’t effect the performance of it.


Now the 2001 1200R on the other hand is freshly rebuilt, brand new pistons/rings, gaskets, etc. so it shouldn’t be a factor at all when I preform said water tests.

 

[smoofers]

The only thing that takes 5-10 mins to swap out on a GPR is the battery! I have a customer's GPR in my backyard right now that I'm dreading working on. I've had the motor out of this ski twice over a 10 year span and each time I work on it I tell myself never again. Props to you for wanting to work on your GPR.

 

[FoulFowl]

The only thing that takes 5-10 mins to swap out on a GPR is the battery! I have a customer's GPR in my backyard right now that I'm dreading working on. I've had the motor out of this ski twice over a 10 year span and each time I work on it I tell myself never again. Props to you for wanting to work on your GPR.

I will admit the first time I pulled the 1200R it took 6 hours due to the last guy that worked on it using an impact to put nearly every bolt on it. Had to weld off 6 bolts in total due to it but, I’m not too pissed about it as there was a welded SBT crank once I finally got it apart. Looks like the only thing that failed on the previous owner was a broken power valve, luckily he had after market lever links so the pin didn’t drop.
Before and after pics below:





I’ve pulled my 800R about 6x in 3 hours diagnosing and testing the electrical issue I was having. Turned out to be a rusted out stator that once I replaced fixed the weak spark issue I was having.


800XL takes me about 20 mins to fully break down and get out and that’s the issue I’m diagnosing currently while waiting on replacement parts for it. Of course turns out it’s likely a seized impeller issue so it’ll likely turn over after I pull it and test. It’s a fresh rebuild and that’s the only possible issue I haven’t tested as of yet.


The ring joint isn’t 2 difficult to get off at least from the 2x I’ve mock set it up in the hull only to pull it due to not having a title for the hull it’s in and likely will end up doing a hull swap on it.

It’s cheaper around me to buy a hull or pay $400 for a titled 800/1200 Power Valve and have spare parts out of it as well. Logically only paying $200 for a full engine regardless of the condition as a title for the 1200R hull is $200 on its own. (Testing dropping the 1200R engine in the 800XL hull later this weekend to see if it even fits before I pull the trigger for a titled replacement hull)

Of course the 2nd time I pulled the 1200R engine I failed to realize it was actually the old impeller/wear ring not having a good seal due to excessive cavitation on the impeller and the wear ring.

Luckily I was able to pick up 2 Solas Props for $200 shipped and an aftermarket swappable wear ring + housing for $60 so all my pump issues should be solved on both the 1200R and the 800XL.


But, yeah jumping between 5 skis currently to get them all 100%. GP800R and GP760 both are water ready, just cosmetic issues/carb tunes left.
800XL/1200R should be water ready by the end of this upcoming weekend as long as I don’t run into any issues with ebox components.
Seadoo 717 is stuck currently attempting to source a non dinged cylinder head/a cheap titled hull. Also unsure if the des post/key on it is functional so might have to drop $250 on an aftermarket ebox for it to bypass it.
Besides that it’s just seat recovery and new grip mat installs left as I’ve got every engine/carb rebuilt already and ready to drop in.

 

[Myself]

I've ridden them back to back and there IS a 'seat-of-the-pants' difference. Worth the effort if you have one laying around OR can buy one cheap. Otherwwise, don't bother with it.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

The only thing that takes 5-10 mins to swap out on a GPR is the battery! I have a customer's GPR in my backyard right now that I'm dreading working on. I've had the motor out of this ski twice over a 10 year span and each time I work on it I tell myself never again. Props to you for wanting to work on your GPR.

The GPR is the easy one once you remove the battery tray you have a lot more room than inside the XLT 1200 hull, I absolutely hate working on those.

 

[Jonesyfxr]

We have an 01 1200R with all the tips and tricks… mostly thanks to WFO. We went 69.1 mph on GPS with my 160# son and a half tank.. oil tank removed, with stock prop. We have since added old school R&D heads and have 150psi across the board. We do have that ring joint but added it at the same time as the heads. We don’t have a tiny tac… so only stock one on dash.

 

[FoulFowl]

Yeah it came in late yesterday and I didn’t get a chance to take measurements or fill each one up with water to get a proper measurement of exactly what the difference is but, I will say it’s an extremely noticeable size difference and the photos from the posting on Greenhulk don’t do it justice.

The 60T ring joint is pretty much the same diameter throughout while the 60T-10 opens up directly after on each end. They both have the exact same sizes on the end and even utilize the same gaskets. So it looks like it’s a pretty straightforward ‘upgrade’…

I’m planning on blocking off 1 end of the pipe and using a gallon jug of water to try to get an exact measurement of the volume of each ring joint.
In theory I should be able to calculate exactly how much each one holds and get an answer for if it’s actually an upgrade or if the volume is the same/barely a difference.