Dry vs. Wet

Harbor

Harbor

Location
Stockton
My type 4 ran parallel cooling (separate).

Will you be running EWIC ?

They’re is a micro touch controller in the FS section, they are good and start ON is 1500 rpm... lower than msd’s 3000 rpm

Just T EWIC set up in to line to manifold lower fitting, then rout it to the spray bar in manifold and it spraying into pipe and away from the engine.

Your first drawing is good...my manifold only had one large barb fitting on the bottom.. I’d ditch that pisser off the stinger.... also if you do run a FC valve, adjust it for max flow to start with... mine ran bettered with more water to stinger...

Here is mine, note; I drew the 2 lines to stinger fittings backwards

Flush kit ? I ran 2, one for pipe and one for engine... now I just back flush via the pissers.
Blowsion has a back flush kit you can view or make your own too.... round hole 45 deg pissers, 90 deg are harder to get flush pipe in the pisser hole.... if your running just fresh water then no need....

5E38308F-FA4D-478C-AEE8-7F45AEE74EF8.png
 
Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Harbor said:
My type 4 ran parallel cooling (separate).

Will you be running EWIC ?

They’re is a micro touch controller in the FS section, they are good and start ON is 1500 rpm... lower than msd’s 3000 rpm

Just T EWIC set up in to line to manifold lower fitting, then rout it to the spray bar in manifold and it spraying into pipe and away from the engine.

Your first drawing is good...my manifold only had one large barb fitting on the bottom.. I’d ditch that pisser off the stinger.... also if you do run a FC valve, adjust it for max flow to start with... mine ran bettered with more water to stinger...

Here is mine, note; I drew the 2 lines to stinger fittings backwards

Flush kit ? I ran 2, one for pipe and one for engine... now I just back flush via the pissers.
Blowsion has a back flush kit you can view or make your own too.... round hole 45 deg pissers, 90 deg are harder to get flush pipe in the pisser hole.... if your running just fresh water then no need....

View attachment 395317
Click to expand...
You can set the MSD unit to 3 cylinder and it will come on alot sooner.
 
Mobile Chernobyl

Mobile Chernobyl

Location
1 Mile High in Colorado
Harbor said:
My type 4 ran parallel cooling (separate).

Will you be running EWIC ?

They’re is a micro touch controller in the FS section, they are good and start ON is 1500 rpm... lower than msd’s 3000 rpm

Just T EWIC set up in to line to manifold lower fitting, then rout it to the spray bar in manifold and it spraying into pipe and away from the engine.

Your first drawing is good...my manifold only had one large barb fitting on the bottom.. I’d ditch that pisser off the stinger.... also if you do run a FC valve, adjust it for max flow to start with... mine ran bettered with more water to stinger...

Here is mine, note; I drew the 2 lines to stinger fittings backwards

Flush kit ? I ran 2, one for pipe and one for engine... now I just back flush via the pissers.
Blowsion has a back flush kit you can view or make your own too.... round hole 45 deg pissers, 90 deg are harder to get flush pipe in the pisser hole.... if your running just fresh water then no need....

View attachment 395317
Click to expand...

Sounds good - Yea I think the factory/riva headers come with one tapped port stock - the other is a blank you can drill/tap sorta like the stock yami pump stators. I have both setup for 1/4" NPT now so I have some options.

I think the micro touch you mentioned is sold in the parts-for-sale section (if you know of another one I'd be interested though). Right now the previous owner of the pipe had a jet jammed in the stinger barb - I'm thinking of drilling/pulling that out and going with a flow control valve to tune it - starting with wide open and closing as needed until I hit the 'sweet spot' without getting the exhaust hosing too hot in the rest of the engine bay.

EWCI looks like it would be worth playing with down the road but for now I'll keep things simple without it.
 
Harbor

Harbor

Location
Stockton
Mobile Chernobyl said:
Sounds good - Yea I think the factory/riva headers come with one tapped port stock - the other is a blank you can drill/tap sorta like the stock yami pump stators. I have both setup for 1/4" NPT now so I have some options.

I think the micro touch you mentioned is sold in the parts-for-sale section (if you know of another one I'd be interested though). Right now the previous owner of the pipe had a jet jammed in the stinger barb - I'm thinking of drilling/pulling that out and going with a flow control valve to tune it - starting with wide open and closing as needed until I hit the 'sweet spot' without getting the exhaust hosing too hot in the rest of the engine bay.

EWCI looks like it would be worth playing with down the road but for now I'll keep things simple without it.
Click to expand...

Sounds good,

Yes I think mine had the additional bung to drill and tap as well.... just wasn’t used....

So the stinger jet regulates how much water enters the stinger and the fc valve controls more Of when it gets that water....

So if you have both you have more adjustability...

Is the fitting tapped do you know. I mean can you unthread the jet as normal ? Do you know what size the jet is ?

Kinda cool it’s got a jet already, was thinking maybe see if it’s serviceable without destroying it, see if you can see what size it is and if it’s stuck in there maybe run it as is First... or fix it so you can change jets....
 
Mobile Chernobyl

Mobile Chernobyl

Location
1 Mile High in Colorado
Harbor said:
So the stinger jet regulates how much water enters the stinger and the fc valve controls more Of when it gets that water....

So if you have both you have more adjustability...
Click to expand...

I actually have both a red Flow control valve from jetworks (the spring and ball type) and a needle valve I was going to use. I Was thinking first just start with the needle valve to fine tune the flow into the stinger (with the jet removed) and the needle valve provides an easy to control throttle for water entering the stinger. Wasn't actually thinking of using both - but can do that for sure.

Harbor said:
Is the fitting tapped do you know. I mean can you unthread the jet as normal ? Do you know what size the jet is ?

Kinda cool it’s got a jet already, was thinking maybe see if it’s serviceable without destroying it, see if you can see what size it is and if it’s stuck in there maybe run it as is First... or fix it so you can change jets....
Click to expand...

I tried unscrewing it - it's pretty mangled so I can't read it anymore. I'm thinking I may have to just drill it out. Did people just put a jet in the stinger and call it a day usually? If so I can avoid using the needle valve altogether as well and just use the jet as the flow restriction device.
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
Going back to the power factor, I'm pretty sure they come with a main jet in the stinger and a flow control valve. I can tell you that mine had a 110 main jet in the stinger, but I got mine used so I'm not 100% certain that's how they come from the factory.
 
fastgtfairlane

fastgtfairlane

Location
Charlotte, NC
that would definitely be better than 3000 that it lists. i bought the setup several years ago and just never got around to trying it out. i might hook it up just to see if it works.
 
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