Dual cooling or not?

[trotty]

Before putting my b pipe on I've been looking at some things to tackle beforehand. Now I know dual coolings been covered a numerous amount of times and yes I have read a majority of it. What I have got from it all is that it is ideal for hotter climates and allows equal water cooling around both cylinders, it also allows two passages from pump instead of one which limits the blockage risk.

Now I'm from the uk and the temps are fairly mild compared to you guys so that leaves me with just the reliability aspect of only having one cooling line from pump.

.....finally From this I only have 2questions.
1. With a b pipe installed can I still access the line to blow out a blockage?
2. Would dual cooling be necessary if I were later down the road install say a girdled head or other mods?

I appreciate all your help in advance
Trotty

 

[iangdesign]

Dual cooling simply allows your motor and pipe to run a little cooler. I would say do it.

It's a simple mod and good cheap insurance for your engine.

 

[blastin603]

i live in new hampshire. ocean water is pretty cold here. i run dual cooling just for insurance and even cylinder cooling. I run a restrictor in the 2nd outlet on head before pisser and 1 before the stinger... You dont want your cylinders to run too cool obviously. Do some testing once its set up. You want the cylinders to stay pretty warm

 

[bored&stroked]

I would think a cooling line blockage is pretty rare, but maybe its just my area where we don't have problems. If the ski is fairly stock, I'd leave the single line. As said before if you go dual you can always use restricters to reduce overall flow.

 

[Lighthouse13]

Where did you see the diagrams on how to set it up? I have a stock motor now, but ordered a bpipe, ada head, MSD, flame arrestor, FCV ETC ETC and am going to put it all on and tune it at one time. I am thinking this is something I should look into as well...

 

[Roseand]

I run two into bottom of mani, one head outlet to adjustable pisser(rear cylinder) front cylinder to bottom of headpipe, top of headpipe to a tee, straight part of tee to flow control valve/restrictor then to stinger, and then angled part of tee to an adjustable pisser. Restrict this pisser to achieve your desired pressure/water flow into the head pipe/fcv.

 

[Vumad]

Running 2 lines in case one gets blocked is silly to me. Why aren't these same people dual cooling a stock motor then? Run the amount of water you need to keep your setup the right temp and keep it out of the mud.

Advantage to dual cooling is more cooling if you need it. No real reason to do it otherwise. You can always set up dual cooling and add restrictors to get the right temps.

 

[Roseand]

@Vumad It's cheap insurance.. And you said it, you can always restrict the flow to your desire.

 

[mybad]

I say not. After i did it needed to restrict both because the motor and pipe ran to cool. My motor is heavily modified. Remember this "keep it simple stupid". Thats what i always tell myself when i get obsessive about poop.

 

[trotty]

My bad, this is what I'm telling myself now. Like I said all I'm worried about is with the pipe installed would it be easy to unblock the line with just single cooling and if I were to put a girdled head on later down the road, will it need dual cooling?. We have mild to cold temps here, I don't want to do it if it doesn't necessarily need it based on the said questions. Im busy enough with complete carb rebuild and whatnot lol Thankyou for all your responses I really appreciate it.

 

[Roseand]

Setting up dual cooling is pretty straight forward.. Just play around with restrictors to get your desired pressure and temp..

 

[trotty]

How to you test pressure and temp?. I know fp state it should sizzle but how do you guys get the correct temp, is it just feeling the pisser be it luke warm?

 

[550/440]

I have heard the UK is similar to Washington state (temperature and weather wise). Dual cooling is not necessary, even running a high compression girdled head in cooler temps. Like mentioned before, it is good security / back up though. The biggest thing to make sure of is to do it correctly - WET FOAM on Superjets is probably the biggest issue. Making sure you seal up the added line(s) will be key.

 

[Roseand]

When I setup cooling, I test it on a trailer first. I have cold fusion pisser which are adjustable and they can be pretty helpful. If you're running the setup I mentioned, you may need to restrict the pisser near the stinger to get enough flow to your headpipe and flow control valve. It's easy to test your fcv by just taking it off the stinger, hold it over board and see when it opens and see how much it flows.
To determine how much flow to your headpipe, you pretty much measure that by how hot it and your chamber gets.. When setting up headpipe pressure, I like to have the top screw on my pipe opened more than a turn, just to rule out the possibility of the chamber sizzling due to the screw adjustment. If the headpipe gets really really hot and the chamber sizzles a lot with that top screw opened a bit, you need to restrict the stinger pisser some more. I like to get enough pressure to the headpipe to keep it nice and warm, but give it a decent amount of spray through the adjustment holes(the headpipe is water jacketed just like your cylinder).
The more pressure to your headpipe, the stronger the spray into adjustment passages to tune the pipe. Test it wot to see if the chamber is at a warm temp, then I like to close the top screw completely and open up the bottom screw to get my desired chamber temp(it totally depends on the pressure to your headpipe, but I'd open the bottom screw more than a half a turn and test it wot/high throttle for like 30 seconds and splash it with some water. If it sizzles a ton, open up the bottom screw. If it's nice and cool, turn it in.
Believe it or not, the screws can be very sensitive. I get mine so it's lightly sizzling on the trailer, but remember that it'll run cooler when you're ripping it like normal, since an aggressive intake grate and the forward movement will force more water pressure into the pump compared to on a trailer(that's my experience).
My pipe sizzled at 1/2 turn on the trailer, and when testing it on the water, it ran very cool. I ended up with it just cracked, probably around 1/4 turn and it lightly sizzles after extended high throttle/close to wot runs. No melting anything, and it absolutely rips off of the bottom to the mid range powerband.
Zack at php recommends tuning with bottom screw, all on with other people as well. When I was using the top screw, the powerband was crazy from mid to top, but with the bottom screw the bottom and midrange is pretty much perfect for setup wakes and jumping waves/surf.
In terms of engine temp-I haven't really need to adjust that much. Since I'm using adjustable pissers, my circuit coming right off to the head to a pisser is slightly restricted. But both my cylinders are pretty close to the same temp. They're pretty warm after a lot of hard riding, but I can hold my hand on the side of the cylinders for over 5 seconds without it becoming uncomfortable. The pisser coming off of my head is nice and warm, and the one coming off of the tee(the stinger circuit) is fairly hot. This is normal I believe, because this circuit runs through the exhaust, and the exhaust is fairly warm. I can put my hand in the stream, but it's not real comfortable. But both my cylinders run at the same safe temperature, so that's what matters. My water temperatures are around 70 degrees, and everything gets plenty warm.
I'm running a 701 61x/61x, 44mm carb, Ada head with 35 cc domes(180 psi), 9/15 hooker prop, worx 201 intake grate, stubby pump cone, etc. Tapped my pump for dual cooling and added a line so I can still use my bilge siphon.
There's my.02 for setting up cooling, and it works awesome for me.
Edit: T handle adjuster screws and a short open ended 3/8 wrench make the bottom screw A LOT easier to adjust.
A user by the name of Parrdaddy(sp?) sells them. Totally worth it. And keep your pipe screws lubed with antisieze, zep, wd40,grease,whatever you have laying around.. Siezed screws suck..

 

[550/440]

^Nice write up.

 

[Vumad]

My bad, this is what I'm telling myself now. Like I said all I'm worried about is with the pipe installed would it be easy to unblock the line with just single cooling and if I were to put a girdled head on later down the road, will it need dual cooling?. We have mild to cold temps here, I don't want to do it if it doesn't necessarily need it based on the said questions. Im busy enough with complete carb rebuild and whatnot lol Thankyou for all your responses I really appreciate it.

Tap the manifold for dual cooling, but not the pump. Wye the line from the pump to the manifold so it feeds both sides of the manifold equally. If you do decide to go to dual cooling, then you just remove the single wye and replace with 2 restrictors. This way, you not only evenly cool the motor, but also if you do decide to dual cool, you don't have to remove the pipe or whatever to change the cooling lines, just connect to what is there. Basically, just do half the job, and tap the pump later if necessary.