Other Dying gasoline

Hey guys, I have a question here. I have been looking for some dyes that I can add to my gas but I cannot find any. The reason I want to do this is because I use amsoil interceptor and it does not have a dye built into the oil, so it is hard to remember whether I added oil to my gasoline or not. If I could just add some dye to the oil it would make my life much easier.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I wrapped the nozzle of my jet ski can in red duct tape.

No fuel ever goes into the can unless it has oil mixed in it. I never pour oil into the can before I go to the gas station. I never leave the station w/o putting oil into the can.

No jet ski cans go unmixed, ever. Empty or mixed. No other acceptable way for my can to be.

If I need more fuel but don't want to mix it, I fill my ATV can with fuel, then pour that fuel into my jet ski can and mix it immediately with oil.
 
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kcmasterpiece

Sweet Baby Ray's Sucks
Location
Daytona Beach
I just do what Vumad does...well kinda. I always mix the gas immediately. I do put oil in the can at home then head to the station, but no raw gas will go into the can ever...
 
I would but dominator says it's for engines that are torn down frequently.

then run hp marine... dominator is the high demand/racing oil... good chance you'll be fine running it..

hp marine is just as good as interceptor, but it's designed for marine use, low toxicity(it's good for the fishies)... that's what i have been running(even ran it in my sled this winter)... no problems... and i'm an amsoil dealer... if you want the color change switch do dominator or hp marine,
 
then run hp marine... dominator is the high demand/racing oil... good chance you'll be fine running it..

hp marine is just as good as interceptor, but it's designed for marine use, low toxicity(it's good for the fishies)... that's what i have been running(even ran it in my sled this winter)... no problems... and i'm an amsoil dealer... if you want the color change switch do dominator or hp marine,


Alright, I'll do that, but I still have to use up the 2 gallons of interceptor I have, can't just throw it out. :)
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
If you go the ATF route, just add enough to the oil jug to dye the entire jug. That way you only have to do it once per jug and you are clearly marked from that point forward. If you are happy with your current oil, I don't see why you would switch.

I used this trick with Bombardier XPS Mineral oil for the same reason. I really liked the oil but it had a honey color and was impossible to see when mixed. I had a couple litres of ATF kicking around and had remembered watching the guy at the bulk plant walking around dying tanks. He used to top off my slip tank and then "forget" to pour in the dye for me. I asked him if it was anything special and he said it was just ATF.
 
If you go the ATF route, just add enough to the oil jug to dye the entire jug. That way you only have to do it once per jug and you are clearly marked from that point forward. If you are happy with your current oil, I don't see why you would switch.

I used this trick with Bombardier XPS Mineral oil for the same reason. I really liked the oil but it had a honey color and was impossible to see when mixed. I had a couple litres of ATF kicking around and had remembered watching the guy at the bulk plant walking around dying tanks. He used to top off my slip tank and then "forget" to pour in the dye for me. I asked him if it was anything special and he said it was just ATF.


Yea from what I have read the dominator is meant for engine that are torn down every 30 hours, I'm just going to use the atf and mix my gas 32:1 and it should be good. Thanks for the tip. Any recommendation on ATF or just buy the cheapest stuff at walmart?
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I'd just buy the cheap stuff. Maybe something different if you wanted a particular color. It doesn't have to be ATF either. It's such a small amount, you could use any oil really.

Fuel dyes are dyes added to fuels, as in some countries it is required by law to dye a low-tax fuel to deter its use in applications intended for higher-taxed ones. Untaxed fuels are referred to as "dyed", while taxed ones are called "clear" or "white".

The dyes used have to be soluble in the fuels they are added to and therefore in hydrocarbon-based nonpolar solvents ("solvent dyes"). Red dyes are often various diazo dyes, e.g. Solvent Red 19, Solvent Red 24, and Solvent Red 26. Anthraquinone dyes are used for green and blue shades, e.g. Solvent Green 33, Solvent Blue 35 and Solvent Blue 26.

It is advantageous to mix a liquid with a liquid instead of handling powdered dyes into a liquid.

The pure dyes found in modern liquid petroleum dyes are essentially longer alkyl side chain forms of traditional dyes and normally multiple chain length variations of the chromophore are found within a typical commercial liquid petroleum dye. For instance, Sudan Red 462 is essentially Solvent Red 19, with the ethyl side chain replaced by either a 2-ethylhexyl or a tridecyl side chain. The longer branched side chains improve solubility dramatically, but in some cases the high solubility prevents the dye being isolated as a crystal, except at very low temperatures. The high solubility liquid dyes originated with Morton International and BASF (ACNA Italy) as the primary inventors. For instance, Morton International created Solvent Blue 98 as a high solubility form of Solvent Blue 35. BASF created Solvent Blue 79 as its high solubility form of Solvent Blue 35. In some cases it is possible, with normal solvents - e.g. xylene - to prepare stable (to -20C) solutions at 65% "solids" content. The original powder dye form of the chromophore would not be soluble beyond 2% in xylene.

Only a few refineries worldwide still use powder dyes for colouring fuels, as ultimately they are still lower cost per active molecule of dye chromphore than the modified forms. They have significant handling issues and health and safety issues that inherently arise from the handling of azo dyes (reds/yellows/green mixes).

Aviation gasoline is dyed, both for tax reasons (avgas is typically taxed to support aviation infrastructure) as well as safety (due to the consequences of fueling an aircraft with the wrong kind of fuel).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_dyes
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Yea from what I have read the dominator is meant for engine that are torn down every 30 hours, I'm just going to use the atf and mix my gas 32:1 and it should be good. Thanks for the tip. Any recommendation on ATF or just buy the cheapest stuff at walmart?

That means Dominator is oil for a high performance engine, that's all. You're not going to have to start taking your engine apart every thirty hours if you start using it.
I believe it's the same price (or nearly the same) as Interceptor.
 
That means Dominator is oil for a high performance engine, that's all. You're not going to have to start taking your engine apart every thirty hours if you start using it.
I believe it's the same price (or nearly the same) as Interceptor.

There was a thread on green hulk about it and it is an ash base oil so it will create deposits on the cylinder head and what not.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
There was a thread on green hulk about it and it is an ash base oil so it will create deposits on the cylinder head and what not.

You are running it in a Superjet, right?
Interceptor is an API-TC low-ash oil intended for PV engines.

I've ran my motor all of last season at 32:1 oil ratio for 250 gallons of gas and had ZERO ash deposits.
I have ran another motor for three seasons at 50:1 with the same oil and had zero problems.

I guess you should figure out what worries you more - an ash problem or a color problem.
 
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You are running it in a Superjet, right?
Interceptor is an API-TC low-ash oil intended for PV engines.

I've ran my motor all of last season at 32:1 oil ratio for 250 gallons of gas and had ZERO ash deposits.
I have ran another motor for three seasons at 50:1 with the same oil and had zero problems.

I guess you should figure out what worries you more - an ash problem or a color problem.


The amsoil rep said it's intended for motors that will be torn down every thirty hours, I'm just regurgitating what I've read.
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
My buddies use dominator, you don't need to rebuild unless your engine is running 220 psi+ compression. Any motor running at that spec has a shorter life expectancy and should be torn down for inspection every so many hours of use or after each race. Dominator is a 50:1 mix so it runs clean, much like the interceptor.
 
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