dynamic timing

[Pablo]

Gear heads,

i'm planning on checking the dynamic timing with an inductive timing light. I've set my static timing at 28 degrees (-5 = 23 actual). With the ski idleing should the timing light show me timing of 28 or 23? Since the marks i made on the cases are only 5 degree increments do i just eyeball the timing during the strobe flash, or should i just retape my degree wheel i printed off the computer and tape it back on the flywheel. Is there a chance the static and dynamic timing will be different? What if they are diff?

 

[crammit442]

Gear heads,

i'm planning on checking the dynamic timing with an inductive timing light. I've set my static timing at 28 degrees (-5 = 23 actual). With the ski idleing should the timing light show me timing of 28 or 23? Since the marks i made on the cases are only 5 degree increments do i just eyeball the timing during the strobe flash, or should i just retape my degree wheel i printed off the computer and tape it back on the flywheel. Is there a chance the static and dynamic timing will be different? What if they are diff?

What kind of igniton is this? I'm assuming analog or single channel digital since the -5 comment? If this is a TL system, what made you decide to use 23 deg as your initial timing?

 

[Matt_E]

That's pretty mild (23).
If it is the MSD TL which subtracts 5 degrees, you will never see those 5 degrees show up magically.
It is there only during initial timing. After that, real static timing is five degrees less.

Now, what you measure with your timing light once it is running depends on your setup and how high the engine revs.
As long as it's under the start retard limit, it should be static timing. After that, it will start cutting down.

 

[Pablo]

What kind of igniton is this? I'm assuming analog or single channel digital since the -5 comment? If this is a TL system, what made you decide to use 23 deg as your initial timing?

My engine is a simple 61x stock cylinder and carb with ADA 35cc, limited bpipe, solas 13-16 and the TL... an analog/single. The modules are 5000 start retard, 8000 limit, 3/1000. Goose ran this before me and said it lit his engine up great. I haven't got back with him yet to see if he used 28 (-5 for 23) or set static up at 23 (-5 for 18). I imagine it's the former and not the latter. From most of the threads i've read i see where people have use 28 or 29 deg as a start. That means I could go for 32-34 initial, but I'm a little scared to push the limit. I need this engine to be reliable for the summer and didn't want to get power greedy and f-it up with a lean carb or something else. It's my first tear down and build.

My paper degree wheel doesn't line up with the degree dimples on the flywheel when I tape it to the flywheel. With this skew factor I thought it was best to err on the cautious side and advance less than 30 since I could be off a degree or two.

 

[Matt_E]

From what you post, you can safely go to 28 degrees initial without problems.

 

[Pablo]

R U saying go 32 (-5 for 28) or set static at 28 (-5 for 23)? Should I just ignore the -5? From the threads it seems as though that may have been overlooked by some and when it was figured in it helped the overall performance.

 

[Matt_E]

I am not entirely sure that the old analog MSD has the -5 Deg feature. I am not saying it doesn't - I just don't remember.
Be sure to consult a manual.
Better yet, give Randy @ WatCon a call. He seems to be familiar with them and should be able to answer your questions.

Of course, once you have timing set, verify it with a Timing Light. I would shoot for 28 deg static off the Timing Light.

 

[Pablo]

Is running at idle speed or less than the "retard start" RPM considered a "static timing?"

 

[Matt_E]

Start retard is at 5000RPM in your case.
I think idle qualifies
Anything under the 5000RPM will be same as static.

 

[Pablo]

I readjusted my static timing, however my stator plate is made in a way that where my pickup is located along with where the slots are for adjusting the stator plate position I jump from a static of 22/23 deg to 30/31 deg. Is 30/31 too much for my engine? All mods listed above, no cylinder work. D-roc says he runs 30 ("on the edge"!). I prefer terra firma, not edge. What are major concerns with too much advance? I've heard bad things happen with a lean fuel mix and lots of advance.

 

[McDog]

Pretty picture. You should do graphic design. Can you grind the material out of the middle? Or maybe move where the pickup is? I don't now crap, I'm just brainstorming BS for you.

 

[Project Ski]

cut the thingy in the middle to give you full adjustability.

 

[D-Roc]

if you set it at 30 then -5 you will only be able to run 25 max timing. Maybe shoot for 35 then the -5 and on the box remove 2 and you should be at 28. 30 is what i am running and i feel it is on the edge because my retard doesn't begin until 5500. i am shootting to have 17 degrees at 7000 which makes my curve cut back steep. not sure if it is the best curve for my motor but its something. I wanted to try 32 degrees but i also wanted the 5500 retard begin. 30 was a compromise of the 32 an 28 i have heard most people run.

 

[Watcon]

MSD Info

There was only one version of MSD that had the negative five degrees built into the brain. It is identifiable by a Torx screw loctaed on the SIDE of the brain, where the newer versions had the torx screw located on the opposite end of the led light. They both shared the same part # of 4260, 4262, 4270.

The digital boxes retard 15 degrees during start-up, and the Module style didn't offer this function. (until the newer fully digital brains arrived). You should always check your timing with a dial indicator and then verify with a timing light at 1500 (or more) Rpm.

I have a box of approx (35) MSD chips, (NO 4 degree per 1000), that I will sell for $100.00 to the first guy that puts $110.00 into my paypal account..??

Paypal & contact me directly at wcc@watcon.com.

Thanks,
Randy

 

[yamanube]

Holy crap all this info is boggling my mind. I am trying to get a rough understanding of how the TL ignition setup works so I am able to set mine up. I will be running a jetinetics setup and really dont have any info on timing curve at all. I have the instructions but they are not SUPER detailed. I will be getting in contact with Robert @ jetinetics to get more info as I get into it but if somebody can point me in the right direction as far as how to set static timing, what timing range to shoot for, where to print off a degree wheel etc. that would be a huge help.

 

[Matt_E]

I don't believe the Jetinetics ignition is programmable.

 

[yamanube]

I don't believe the Jetinetics ignition is programmable.

No it is not, how does that effect my setup? Sorry I am a total newb to ignitions.

 

[Matt_E]

That means you install it, set your static timing once, and run it.
A lot easier - but unfortunately, a lot less versatile and less performance.

 

[yamanube]

That means you install it, set your static timing once, and run it.
A lot easier - but unfortunately, a lot less versatile and less performance.

Fuggin perfect! Easy is the name of the game at this point, now I just need to figure out where to set my static.:dunce:

 

[Matt_E]

Contact Jetinetics and get a recommendation on that.