Boyz,
I didn't get to the bottom of why it is necessary to double check ur static timing with a timing light? My only calibration is the degree wheel i've got printed off the computer and taped to my flywheel and the marks i made on the cases with my sharpee. I understand that my timing should be close, but how accurate am i going to be with the timing light and the pirated, taped-on, spinning degree wheel? What do I do if they are not the same. When my LED lights up on the brain and I spin the drive shaft the light is on over the course of maybe 10-12 deg. of rotation. U guys think the gap is too close? I checked it with a micrometer and it was WNL per MSD's info.
I didn't get to the bottom of why it is necessary to double check ur static timing with a timing light? My only calibration is the degree wheel i've got printed off the computer and taped to my flywheel and the marks i made on the cases with my sharpee. I understand that my timing should be close, but how accurate am i going to be with the timing light and the pirated, taped-on, spinning degree wheel? What do I do if they are not the same. When my LED lights up on the brain and I spin the drive shaft the light is on over the course of maybe 10-12 deg. of rotation. U guys think the gap is too close? I checked it with a micrometer and it was WNL per MSD's info.