Electrical click

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
still clicks when try to start and positive terminal on battery smokes...

Hopefully its a relay issue... really do not feel like taking apart pipe side to get to starter... !!!

Your starter being seized would cause power to flow but have no where to discharge. This is the same as why bilge pumps catch fire when a zip ties gets stuck in them. All signs point to the starter.

You can take thw starter out without removing the pipe. It helps avoid excessive wear to the manifold. But again, never remove the starter without taking off the flywheel cover and accounting for the spring and washers.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
What am I missing? The springs and washers are part of the Bendix, not the starter...

I jossled my bendix around while doing the job the first time. The washer between the bendix and the spring got loose and started floating around the flywheel. Maybe it got loose when i was installing the flywheel cover to begin with and blamed the wrong job. Its been afew years now and i guess i never gave it much thought. Just got in the habit of taking off the cover and checking the hardware. I guess in theory those parts shouldnt be able tomove with the cover on.
 
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UPDATES:

After testing I thought that my relay had gone South... Bought a NEW OEM relay and the clicks continue... Decided not to mess with it anymore as I am traveling to Florida... Sooooo the ski will be dropped off at Thrust and I'll be good to go... Done messing with it... !!!

Thanks Chris @ Jetmaniac for my new relay... as always... Great pricing and super fast shipping... 5 stars... !!!
 
Well... after the correct testing was done... It showed that my relay was the culprit... So I had thought... Now off to Thrust to finalize and get her going once again... I am done wrenching on skis, nor, do I enjoy it when I am not a pro at diagnosing the correct issues... No big deal... Pay and go ride... That's my style... !!!
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
UPDATES:

After testing I thought that my relay had gone South... Bought a NEW OEM relay and the clicks continue... Decided not to mess with it anymore as I am traveling to Florida... Sooooo the ski will be dropped off at Thrust and I'll be good to go... Done messing with it... !!!

Thanks Chris @ Jetmaniac for my new relay... as always... Great pricing and super fast shipping... 5 stars... !!!

How did you test the relay? Usually a clicking relay is a good relay.

Testing involves removing the relay, connecting the positive and negative to 12v, then OHM the terminals. Its rare for a terminal to click and have resistance on the terminals.
 
Placed red wire from multi-meter to starter side of relay... Black wire from multi-meter to ground on motor... Multi-meter read ZERO.... after I had hit the green button to start the multi-meter took off and read all types of wrong numbers... It was supposed to read 12.75 volts which is what my battery is holding at the current moment... So in turn I thought my relay was a goner... Bought a new oem relay and the same outcome... buzzing noise coming out from new relay... Same deal... !!!

Like previously mentioned:

Brand new battery
Brand new OEM relay
Brand new ground wire
Brand new 10A fuse
Brand new start / stop switch
Tried jumping old relay & new relay with no luck getting the starter moving

From my studies on the forum and from what a few other members have told me.... My STARTER is doneski OR a bad starter wire... !!!

Possibly it could be something else in the flywheel cover, but, I am doubting that because it ran perfect with zero noises, rattles.... nothing... Ran like a top... If it fired right now it would still run like a top... She just won't start... !!!
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Placed red wire from multi-meter to starter side of relay... Black wire from multi-meter to ground on motor... Multi-meter read ZERO.... after I had hit the green button to start the multi-meter took off and read all types of wrong numbers... It was supposed to read 12.75 volts which is what my battery is holding at the current moment... So in turn I thought my relay was a goner... Bought a new oem relay and the same outcome... buzzing noise coming out from new relay... Same deal... !!!

Like previously mentioned:

Brand new battery
Brand new OEM relay
Brand new ground wire
Brand new 10A fuse
Brand new start / stop switch
Tried jumping old relay & new relay with no luck getting the starter moving

From my studies on the forum and from what a few other members have told me.... My STARTER is doneski OR a bad starter wire... !!!

Possibly it could be something else in the flywheel cover, but, I am doubting that because it ran perfect with zero noises, rattles.... nothing... Ran like a top... If it fired right now it would still run like a top... She just won't start... !!!

That is not the proper way to check a relay. The start switch side is a low voltage system, just enough to engage the relay (someone correct me if its still 12 volts). It may have read 12 volts if you tested with the leads on the two terminals and hit start.

To check it...

Remove the relay.
Attach black to negative
Red to positive (I use the jet ski battery with the gator clips from my battery charger, but you can use anything 12v like a drill battery, etc)
The relay will click, and stay engaged. The low voltage side is working.
Attack your multimeter to the two terminals, it should read infinity, or if it starts on 1 it should go to 0 or very very close to 0.

This confirms the relay engages. It also confirms that the power can properly flow through the relay to the starter.
 
I am sure my new OEM relay is working properly, but, I will do that test for both relays and see what happens...

Any other clues what it can be minus a possible bad starter... ???

My only concerns is that before I replaced with the new OEM relay she would sometimes start... run great as always and then not start again... I could let it sit for a few hours and then it would start up... The last time it did not want to start at all no matter what I did or how much time I had let pass...

Like mentioned... prior to any of these clicking non starting issues... No funky noises... smooth as can be... She ran perfect... !!!
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I am sure my new OEM relay is working properly, but, I will do that test for both relays and see what happens...

Any other clues what it can be minus a possible bad starter... ???

My only concerns is that before I replaced with the new OEM relay she would sometimes start... run great as always and then not start again... I could let it sit for a few hours and then it would start up... The last time it did not want to start at all no matter what I did or how much time I had let pass...

Like mentioned... prior to any of these clicking non starting issues... No funky noises... smooth as can be... She ran perfect... !!!

See post 7. The housing swells. The first sign of a failing starter is intermittent cranking, or it drags. The housing swells and the armature snags the housing. That is why you see people hit starters. It frees them up.

We keep saying starter. You need to check the starter. Have you even stuck your hand up under that pipe to feel it? The outer housing is usually, but not always, swollen.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Stop thinking something is wrong with the relay because you hear clicking. The clicking is normal. All relays click. The clicking is a sign that your relay is working. The reason you never heard the clicking is the working starter made too much noise, but a broken starter is quieter than a working relay.
 
Took the starter out this morning... Jumped it from my truck... At first go she did not spin... Second touch she spun with no issues... Third... Fourth and so on... !!!

I checked continuity in all wires... all seemed to check out minus the red and brown switch plug coming out of Ebox... That was all over the place...

My assumptions... Either the starter was stuck ( regardless getting a new oem starter at this point ) OR that plug with red and brown wire is funky...

The start / stop switch had perfect continuity sooooooo any other idea's minus what I had just mentioned... ???

It was not that bad taking out starter as I had unbolted head pipe which gave me plenty of room to move over in the BOT and it slid out rather easy, but, I did have to do the wiggle wiggle push pull deal... !!!
 
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