Super Jet Electrical - Does this diagnosis sound right to you?

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Alright, here's what's up...

Finally got my engine back together, press start, and it just cranks, and cranks, and cranks.... I pulled the plugs, and I'm getting no spark at all.

First step, I disconnect the stop start switch, and still no spark. So, that's out...

The e-box had a brand new enhancer, and a brand new JSS coil in it. I replaced the JSS coil with a known working stock coil, still no spark. I then replaced the enhancer with a known working CDI, still no spark...

The ground and positive cables are both brand new, OEM.

So I tried removing the start/stop, replacing the coil, and replacing the CDI... I know my cables are solid, and well grounded.

Sounds like a bad stator, right?

-G
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
Could also be just a bad stator ground but test the stator with a multimeter. Do you have a manual to check the resistances of the stator?
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Wow, no other opinions...

Do you guys think I'm on the right track here? I'd rather not pull the motor apart to check the stator if I don't have to, so can someone throw me a bone here?
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I'm trying to throw you a bone... Aimlessly replacing parts is not smart. Don't pull the motor at all. Pull the ebox and check all connections there. You'll be able to check the stator ground and all of the wires corresponding to it from there. In fact, you want to check the connections there because if there is a short in one of the lines, going to the ebox, you'll know by checking there. The hardest part of the entire process will be removing the screws that hold the ebox together.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
check the gromet where the stator wires come into the electrical box. wiggle the wires. See if they all have the same stiffness right at the rubber. You may have a broken wire right there.
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
I already checked the ebox, that was the first place I looked... checked all the connections, made sure there wasn't any water, corrosion, etc in there, and made sure all the wires were properly crimped, and the connectors were tight. That's how I first attempted replacing the CDI with a stock, known working unit, and then the coil with a stock, known working unit.

I don't have a multimeter to check this out, and based on what I'm seeing, picking up a used, known working stator is going to be cheaper than buying a multimeter that'll properly read the low resistance required to do a couple of the electrical checks...
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Just wanted to post back in case anyone searches, and stumbles across this thread in the future...

The issue was the stator. I pulled the old stator, replaced with a new one, and I'm back in business. It turns out that the last time I pulled the flywheel, one of the puller bolts went all the way through the flywheel and nicked one of the coils on the stator itself.

So, be careful when you thread those puller bolts through your flywheel, and don't go to far through.

-G
 
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