Super Jet Engine shims help

[BUMPSKR]

I have looked at other posts but haven't been able to get my answer. I pulled my motor and marked all the shims. When reinstalling i realized that the shims were not even. Is that normal? One corner has one .5mm shim the opposite has 2@ .5mmshims (closest to bulkhead). The shims toward the front were a 2mm and 1mm. Then the opposite had a .3mm and a 1mm shim. This is the way i got it from factory. Or at least from shop i bought it from brand new in 95. I did have them install a prop and factory pipe so maybe they pulled the motor?? I watched the wamilton video on engine alignment ( very good) and it looked like the shims were always even. Ex. Put a 2mm on one side then you put a 2mm opposite side....it wasn't stated specifically but that is how he did it. I have not found any info stating they have to be even.. Please help

 

[snowxr]

Yes, that's normal. The shims are to get the motor aligned, since the hull/motor mounts/bedplates/ cases all can vary just a tiny bit.

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

wow thats crazy, mines a 96 and it has 2 shims on exhaust side, front and back r the same thickness.

 

[BUMPSKR]

I have looked at other posts but haven't been able to get my answer. I pulled my motor and marked all the shims. When reinstalling i realized that the shims were not even. Is that normal? One corner has one .5mm shim the opposite has 2@ .5mmshims (closest to bulkhead). The shims toward the front were a 2mm and 1mm. Then the opposite had a .3mm and a 1mm shim. This is the way i got it from factory. Or at least from shop i bought it from brand new in 95. I did have them install a prop and factory pipe so maybe they pulled the motor?? I watched the wamilton video on engine alignment ( very good) and it looked like the shims were always even. Ex. Put a 2mm on one side then you put a 2mm opposite side....it wasn't stated specifically but that is how he did it. I have not found any info stating they have to be even.. Please help

so i got it aligned with straight edge but when engine is idling the back engine mount on exhaust side looks like a paint can in a shaker. vibrating a lot but when i rev engine it stops vibrating. when rpms come down it starts again. my coupler is straight but it seems to be about 3.1mm. shouldn't it be 2.5mm?? i swear i torqued it down at 2.5. would that gap cause vibration?i don't remember how bad the engine vibrated before I RnR'd it

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

coupler allignment

according to my clymer manual letter a can not exceed 0.024 in (0.6mm). letter b the correct clearance is 2-4mm(0.079-0.157 in.)

 

[gabe_k]

so i got it aligned with straight edge but when engine is idling the back engine mount on exhaust side looks like a paint can in a shaker. vibrating a lot but when i rev engine it stops vibrating. when rpms come down it starts again. my coupler is straight but it seems to be about 3.1mm. shouldn't it be 2.5mm?? i swear i torqued it down at 2.5. would that gap cause vibration?i don't remember how bad the engine vibrated before I RnR'd it

That is exactly how mine is! I thought that maybe one of the mounts was broken, but they all checked out.. The rear one under the exhaust is the one that shakes like a mofo.. I haven't had any problems so far though..

 

[icecoled007]

wow thats crazy, mines a 96 and it has 2 shims on exhaust side, front and back r the same thickness.

Mine are the same....

 

[MASSEY]

it might help......

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

exellent vid,

 

[BUMPSKR]

thanx. this is what i used to do my alignment. the only thing is that he says to go 2.5mm no less than 2 no more than 3. manual says 2-4mm

and he torques bolts to 27 lb but manual says 12lb. big difference

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

yeah that is very true i know mine is close prob not perfect no issues on my end.

 

[BUMPSKR]

That is exactly how mine is! I thought that maybe one of the mounts was broken, but they all checked out.. The rear one under the exhaust is the one that shakes like a mofo.. I haven't had any problems so far though..

did you reinforce?

 

[txsuperjetfreak96]

if your getting lots of vibration at idle, could it b a low speed adjustment issue

 

[Tyler Zane]

i know how to shim an engine and i still learned from those videos.

 

[gabe_k]

did you reinforce?

I bought it reinforced..

 

[gabe_k]

Wow, so I just went to check the alignment.. It was about 1.5mm off. There were only shims in the front of the motor, none in the back. I went to pacific motorsports today and Gordon gave me a few shims and tol me to return what I didn't use.. I ended up using all of them and when I went to put the coupler back in, I decided to spin the shaft.. And it wouldn't move. It was getting hung up on one spot near the top. There are no shims on the pump, so how do I fix that? There's no shims to take out to make the pump go higher.. I'm pretty upset right now, I should have checked this stuff out before I took the ski out a few times.:/

 

[Tyler Zane]

Wow, so I just went to check the alignment.. It was about 1.5mm off. There were only shims in the front of the motor, none in the back. I went to pacific motorsports today and Gordon gave me a few shims and tol me to return what I didn't use.. I ended up using all of them and when I went to put the coupler back in, I decided to spin the shaft.. And it wouldn't move. It was getting hung up on one spot near the top. There are no shims on the pump, so how do I fix that? There's no shims to take out to make the pump go higher.. I'm pretty upset right now, I should have checked this stuff out before I took the ski out a few times.:/

do not shim your pump to your motor. why not lower your motor instead of raise your pump. if it was me i would just start from scratch and do it right. below are the directions i followed my first time.

1) With both the engine and midshaft removed install pump with bolts snug, but not super tight. Look inside the engine compartment at the drive shaft sticking through the hole. Your goal here is to get that drive shaft to be as dead center in the hole as possible. You do this by adding shims to the two rear mounts of the pump. Never add shims to the front two mounting points of the pump. Once the shaft is a dead center as possible, install the pump with all cooling lines. Your done in the pump area.

2) Slide the midshaft onto the drive shaft. Push it as far on as possible. If there are any gaps between the mid shaft and the bulk head, add shims to each side accordingly to fill up the gaps. Because there are no bolts installed there will some gappage no matter how hard you press it on by hand. If there is an even gap all the way around the mid shaft, then no shims are necessary. Once gaps have been filled by shims, bolt the mid shaft on.

3) Next is the engine. Slide the engine into place WITHOUT the rubber damper. The first stage here is to try to get the engine height figured out. Left and right alignment is negligible at this point. You want to add shims accordingly to each mount so that you can take a card and place it on the top of both couplers and have that card sit even.

Once you have that figured out, remember or mark the position of the shims, pull the engine forward, slide in the rubber damper, add your shims back, and just barely snug each engine mount bolt. You'll now twist the engine so that when you place a card on the sides of the couplers, the card will sit flush on both sides. You can also use a variety of measuring tools to determine whether each side is aligned properly instead of a card. Between each movement remember to snug atleast one bolt back down before you let go of the engine, otherwise you'll just loose the amount you have moved the engine. Once left and right alignment has been figured out, torque down all your bolts.

4) You're done. Drink a beer. And remember you should have installed all these bolts with anti-seize.

 

[gabe_k]

do not shim your pump to your motor.

Correct, after I realized the pump wasn't aligned I took the motor off the shaft... So it's just the shaft and pump.. What kind of shims do I need? I'm guessing the motor shims aren't the same?

 

[Tyler Zane]

Correct, after I realized the pump wasn't aligned I took the motor off the shaft... So it's just the shaft and pump.. What kind of shims do I need? I'm guessing the motor shims aren't the same?

i have motor shims in my pump, they are a wider but its only the thickness that counts. pm jetmaniac, he may have some to sell.

 

[96superjet]

recently pulled my motor for the first time. Of course I paid NO attention to my motor mid-shaft alignment before I pulled it. Upon replacing the motor I realized that I needed to shim the motor (there were no shims previously). Everything lined up well with the exception of the distance between the drive couplers. Wamilton says between 2 and 2.5 mm. Mine are closer to 8 mm apart. Prior to tightening down the motor mounts I pushed the motor as far backwards as possible. What could be causing the excessive distance between the couplers? Motor shaft or the mid-shaft issue?