ET 967 Tuning Thread

[Big Chris]

Seriously, only running 93. I am running this set up.
180psi
Dual 46 on php mani and v2s
2.3 n&s
120p
110m
Pop off 18
3/4 out on low
1-1/4 out on high
PhP laydown / ran dry
This ski dialed in on the fat side. Also running Dominator at 40:1.

On a side note, ran a compression test yesterday at 180/180, and dropped a scope in the cylinder, pistons are still clean as the ski is running on the fat side, and cylinder walls are still perfect. Motor has 25 hours since it went to 94.5 pistons last year, and will be for sale in the next few weeks after my new motor is built. It will come with extra PV blades, springs, bellows, retainers, and extra domes.

Can confirm Prickter's jetting recommendations work very well.
We are running a similar setup.
We are slightly richer, but ambient air temps are cold right now (between 40-55F).
160 psi
Dual 46s on a Riva Mani with 760 reed cages
2.3 N&S gold springs pop off is 22psi
125 pilot
115 main
1-1/4 out on low
1 out on high
PFP V3 dry
40:1 Premix

155 OEM Pump, 9-15 skat

 

[Jdbarnes89]

Hello just switched my et967 with a power factor pipe from dual 46s to Novi 48s and was wondering if anyone has this setup and what they are doing for jetting, i was running 120 pilot and 110 main at 18psi in my 46s with great results, just got the 48s that were setup for a 1200cc at 125 pilot and 130 main at 18 psi, was thinking of trying 125 pilot and 115 main at 18psi any thoughts?

 

[Big Kahuna]

Sounds like you are on right path. More Air flow will require more fuel

 

[Jdbarnes89]

So i ended up with a 120 pilot and 130 main, although i think i can drop the main a little, gonna order 120 and 125 main and see what i get, the 115 main was hardly leaving any trace of color way up inside the plug so i went rich right away after that, and now plugs actually don't look too bad so idk i may leave it, I'll report back what i find out

 

[Big Kahuna]

So i ended up with a 120 pilot and 130 main, although i think i can drop the main a little, gonna order 120 and 125 main and see what i get, the 115 main was hardly leaving any trace of color way up inside the plug so i went rich right away after that, and now plugs actually don't look too bad so idk i may leave it, I'll report back what i find out

Dont focus purely on color. It can take a while to color up a plug if it is new. Heck, our old B2 rarely ever had any plug color. It was either clean or black......... How does it ride? That is your indicator.

 

[Jdbarnes89]

So far pretty well, there isn't any lean spot, although I've been batting a timing confusion issue with this atp flame ts2 on where to set static timing, tonight i will be flashing the software in it with the newest version so i know for sure the static timing needs to be at 40° i have a earlier model that was set at 50°, so currently it's 10° retard... Otherwise it feels very responsive this far, still going to order the 125 and 120 main jets then I'll have everything from 115 to 130 to play with, the 120 pilot feels spot on with low screw at about 1 turn out

 

[Jcary85]

So far pretty well, there isn't any lean spot, although I've been batting a timing confusion issue with this atp flame ts2 on where to set static timing, tonight i will be flashing the software in it with the newest version so i know for sure the static timing needs to be at 40° i have a earlier model that was set at 50°, so currently it's 10° retard... Otherwise it feels very responsive this far, still going to order the 125 and 120 main jets then I'll have everything from 115 to 130 to play with, the 120 pilot feels spot on with low screw at about 1 turn out

If you are adding in 10 degrees of timing, expect to play with fueling a bit. also, expect it to run much better down low.

 

[Jdbarnes89]

Yeah currently it's 10° retarded, so that's why i just kinda quit until i flash the CDI with the newest software, then ill continue with the jetting

 

[Jdbarnes89]

So i flashed the atp flame ts2 ignition with the latest software, turns out mine was the first version, and there have been 9 updates since, and now i without question know my timing is spot on cant wait to test tomorrow and see it i need any jetting changes

 

[Prickster]

So i flashed the atp flame ts2 ignition with the latest software, turns out mine was the first version, and there have been 9 updates since, and now i without question know my timing is spot on cant wait to test tomorrow and see it i need any jetting changes

About time. Can't wait to hear the results.

 

[Jdbarnes89]

About time. Can't wait to hear the results.

Yeah it's been a crap shoot trying to figure this ignition out without much info on it... Nobody seems to know to much about it, was getting close to buying msd but didn't wanna redo the ebox stuff since i just set it up for a oem box, ive heard word zeel might be coming out with their own TL system so that may be an option down the road, hopefully it don't rain today and i can get it out!!

 

[Jdbarnes89]

Finally got it all in tune, running dual novi 48mm 91 octane at 40:1 ratio, 125 main, 120 pilot, 2.3 n/s at 20psi high screw at 3/4 low at 7/8, and float lever flush with kidney block, also changed my timing curve to start 32° advance at 1500 rpm per instructions from Erickson marine, plugs look awesome, no signs of det,

 

[Jdbarnes89]

Finally got the rough choppy idle figured out, i had dual 46 on it without the restrictors being drilled out and it idled super rough, put the Novi 48s with a 60 restrictor did the same thing, ended up switching restrictor to a 70 and it was better, now I'm at a 80 and it idles like a stock superjet!! Hopefully won't be eating couplers alive anymore now lol

 

[stefan]

Finally got the rough choppy idle figured out, i had dual 46 on it without the restrictors being drilled out and it idled super rough, put the Novi 48s with a 60 restrictor did the same thing, ended up switching restrictor to a 70 and it was better, now I'm at a 80 and it idles like a stock superjet!! Hopefully won't be eating couplers alive anymore now lol

you should check the return fuel pressure, NOVI has a nice "how too doo" procedure

 

[Jdbarnes89]

Yeah i ended up checking it and went with a 90 main jet, @ 1.5 psi

 

[Big Chris]

Tuning questions: (current jetting calibration below)
ET967, runs great and is crisp BUT.... carbs dribble out of the booster venturi at idle. I can see this looking down the carb bores at idle. This gives us an off idle hesitation after say 20-30 secs of idle (that is certainly rich and not the lean bog), and fuel consumption is pretty high. And as I'm the sort that is a perfectionist, this drives me nuts. Our engine shakes/vibrates considerably at idle, and I suspect it's this vibration that's opening the needle valve.

Our pop-off is 22-24 psi (verified with a pop off tester) we're at 2.3 w shiny silver spring. Needle and seat were new last season, if I replace the shiny silver spring with new, the dribble stops for a little while, but returns after a few tanks of fuel. If I raise pop-off pressure to the next spring step (2.0 w black ), I get the beginnings of the lean bog, especially if you stab the throttle repeatedly under load (in the water).

So here's my question, if I changed my needle valve size, can I still get to the 22-24psi range but have a better resistance to dribble? Like if I went to a 2.5 with a gold spring. Haven't tried this yet but my thinking is the stronger spring would have a better chance of keeping the valve closed. Or would a smaller needle valve have a better chance of staying closed because of less surface area exposed to the fuel pressure vs. the spring trying to keep it closed?

Is this the reason folks drill out the return restrictor and put a jet the the return line after the "t"? I'm sort of leaning away from this and quite frankly haven't done this because it's irreversible. (I guess I could always replace the fuel pump cover)

We do not have a carb brace, would that sort of thing reduce the vibration the carb "sees" at idle?

Any help would be appreciated.

Video of ski running with engine audio:

ET967
Stock SBN 46s
High Speed Jet 110
Low Speed Jet 125
Pop off 22-24psi wet 2.3 w black spring
LSS 1.75 turns out
HSS 1 turn out
PFP pipe and water box
Zeel 62T

 

[Jdbarnes89]

Tuning questions: (current jetting calibration below)
ET967, runs great and is crisp BUT.... carbs dribble out of the booster venturi at idle. I can see this looking down the carb bores at idle. This gives us an off idle hesitation after say 20-30 secs of idle (that is certainly rich and not the lean bog), and fuel consumption is pretty high. And as I'm the sort that is a perfectionist, this drives me nuts. Our engine shakes/vibrates considerably at idle, and I suspect it's this vibration that's opening the needle valve.

Our pop-off is 22-24 psi (verified with a pop off tester) we're at 2.3 w gold spring. Needle and seat were new last season, if I replace the gold spring with new, the dribble stops for a little while, but returns after a few tanks of fuel. If I raise pop-off pressure to the next spring step (2.0 w dull silver), I get the beginnings of the lean bog, especially if you stab the throttle repeatedly under load (in the water).

So here's my question, if I changed my needle valve size, can I still get to the 22-24psi range but have a better resistance to dribble? Like if I went to a 2.5 with a gold spring. Haven't tried this yet but my thinking is the stronger spring would have a better chance of keeping the valve closed. Or would a smaller needle valve have a better chance of staying closed because of less surface area exposed to the fuel pressure vs. the spring trying to keep it closed?

Is this the reason folks drill out the return restrictor and put a jet the the return line after the "t"? I'm sort of leaning away from this and quite frankly haven't done this because it's irreversible. (I guess I could always replace the fuel pump cover)

We do not have a carb brace, would that sort of thing reduce the vibration the carb "sees" at idle?

Any help would be appreciated.

Video of ski running with engine audio:

ET967
Stock SBN 46s
High Speed Jet 110
Low Speed Jet 125
Pop off 22-24psi wet 2.3 w black spring
LSS 1.75 turns out
HSS 1 turn out
PFP pipe and water box
Zeel 62T

Check fuel pressure... The larger engines seem to have more vacuum, i even up with i think a 90 main jet in my return line, you will need to drill out the restrictor in your oem 46s if it's not already done, want i think 1.5 psi, smaller jet higher psi, larger jet lower psi

 

[DylanS]

Double up on check valves or move to a stiffer plastic, add two of the attached kidney blocks, drill those returns and set your fuel pressure to 1-2psi at idle and about 5-6 psi wide open.
Your fuel pressure will be pretty high as it is right now with no drilled out restrictors.

 

[Big Chris]

I pulled the carbs tonight and doubled up the clear plastic check valve on the kidney shaped valve body. I got everything all back together and ready to test. I made no other changes.

Verified pop-off and I should note I've got the shiny silver spring (the slightly shorter one with less coils) and a 2.3 needle valve giving me 22-24psi pop off. Black spring gives me 26-29psi pop off.

I should get a chance to run it after work tomorrow.

 

[Jdbarnes89]

Would highly recommend buy main jet sizes 60 70 80 90 drilling out the restrictor holes in the carb and getting a low pressure fuel gauge on the return line... I had issues with my carbs in my 967 both the 46s then the Novi 48s found fuel pressure was at 2.5 psi at idle it was so rough at idle that it was eating up dampeners and damaging the couplers, mid shaft, and motor mounts dialed the pressure in at 1.5psi and it is close to using like a 701 again