Ever had this happen with oil?

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I mixed a fresh batch of 100ll with castor 927. Shook it all up and filled my tank. After idling away from the dock the ski cut out. Got it home and all the carbs lines and filters and carbs were full off oil. Pumped out the tank and refilled with fresh gas and palmed the carbs to flush the new gas through the carbs and I'm back in business. I just mixed 15 gallons of 100ll and hope it doesn't all do this. By the way when you shake up the bottle The oil falls out in just a few minutes.
 
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High Speed Industries

Your one stop shop for quality parts @highspeedind
Have you ever read the back of the castor bottle? If I remember correctly it says do not use with aviation fuels. It separates. Castor can be a very picky oil, it won't mix with many fuels. That is one of the many reasons I don't recommend it.

Let us know if you find the cause of your issue.
 
Thanks. Guys. I have ran this stuff for 3 years. Haven't ever had this problem in my AV gas before. Maybe this was a fresher tank. But I know I won't be running 927 anymore. R50 from now on.
 
Waters not thick or the color of honey. It could not even be drawn through the carbs. It took violently shaking the bottle to suspend it. Then it fell right out. Sloshing in the tank wouldn't do any good.

I'm gonna mix a gallon or 2 of 93 with each jug and see if it keeps falling out. Should be plenty warm this weekend. I'll mix it well and watch it.
 

Mike W

Infidel
Location
North Florida
I have ran 927 with 93 octane for years and never seen it separate like that. Even in cold weather. It has to be the aviation fuel you are running.
 

tntsuperjet

Tntperformance-engineering.com
Location
Georgetown ca
The reason that happens is you get a batch of 100ll with de icing agent in it.
Most oils will not mix with it.
Not just a bean oil problem.
What keeps the fuel from icing is also what allows oil to bind with the fuel.
So your screwed.
Always ask if they have de icing agents in there fuel. Places that have severe winters and zero unsung airports usually have it in the winter months
 

tntsuperjet

Tntperformance-engineering.com
Location
Georgetown ca
I have a news flash for all you who praise all these synthetics.
There is not one synthetic on the market that has a complete molecule chain.
The only two stroke oil that does is castor!!
What does a complete chain mean, it means it will draw to heat not repel.
You all wanna do a cheap easy test of how great your oil is.
Take metal plate and heat it with torch from the bottom get it 300 deg take cap full of your oil and drop on the hot spot. You will see your synthetic oil bead up and run from heat like water on gortex jacket.
Castor will pull into the heat.
So if your motor is in perfect tune and you have no hot spots you will praise your synthetic oil. Soon as you need it it's gonna pack up and run like street hooker when cops show up. Leaving your piston to nicely coat your cylinder with aluminum friction transfer.

Castor will have some blending issues with some fuels but it won't let you down when your motor needs it most.

Last info, I have dyno over 30 different two stroke motors from 50cc to 1300 cc.
Not one of them didn't make more power with more oil. 16to1 made the most peak power in every motor I have tested it on.
But anything more then 28to 1 gets to be jetting issues for low end response
So 32to1 has been the best compromise for power and ease of tune.
 
Last info, I have dyno over 30 different two stroke motors from 50cc to 1300 cc.
Not one of them didn't make more power with more oil. 16to1 made the most peak power in every motor I have tested it on.
But anything more then 28to 1 gets to be jetting issues for low end response
So 32to1 has been the best compromise for power and ease of tune.
Yes, spot on!!
This is a commonly misunderstood. The engine will make more power as you add more oil, until it basically can't keep itself from fouling out. So back it off a bit from there. The jetting must be changed accordingly or it will lean out and not be a proper test.
 
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