Freestyle Extra cylinder cooling

loictahiti

Site Supporter
Hi everybody

As my english is so bad , I can’t find some post for that.

I want make extra cooling on my Dasa 1055 cylinder , so how to do a cooling routine , how it’s your ?
Thanks a lot
 
Location
LOTO
Our Dasa has a water distribution block with one 1/2" line going to the exhaust manifold, then 2 - 3/8" lines going to the front cylinder and 2 more 3/8" lines going into rear cylinder (like pictured above). Then the 4 - 3/8" lines in the head dump overboard.
 
Location
LOTO
I don't have one of it, sorry. The water distribution block is way down underneath and can't really get a photo of it. I plan on pulling the engine in the next few weeks I'll get one then if you still need it.
 

Christian_83

Xscream
Location
Denmark
What i dont get is what purpose these distribution blocks do.
Cooling as about flow, more flow = more cooling. Less flow = less cooling.
Flow = volume / time.

So when you have 2 cooling lines 3/8" from the pump, going through the hull.
you got 4 cooling fittings in the head of a DASA engine, and 4 cooling holes from each exhaust flange (around 8mm, equal 16mm / cooling line)

So my point is, you can flow / cool the engine more, than they amount of flow you getting from your pump (the cooling lines going through the hull)
What is the point of adding a cooling distribution block with 8 or 10 outlets ?
 
Location
Stockton
What is the point of adding a cooling distribution block with 8 or 10 outlets ?

I was told it gives equal cooling system pressure to each point. Also the more you can cool it the more on the edge you can build it and stay below deto (freestyle)

I guess without that block and to run all those lines it would require min 2 T's per incoming water line just to get to 6
 
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Christian_83

Xscream
Location
Denmark
Well cooling pressure dosent make sense? what would you need a pressure to? You need a flow (move hot water away from cylinder)

My point is, you can get more water flow in/out of the cylinder, by putting that distribution block in. You can only flow as much as you can "tap off your pump" (pump outlets / though hull cooling lines)
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I have 2 - 1/2" lines coming in to a dist. block from the pump with 3 - 3/8" outlets. 2 to the manifold and 1 dedicated the the pipe. But this is on a DASA 820.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
more flow = more cooling. Less flow = less cooling.
I think this is where you are stumped. however, disclaimer, I haven't done back to back testing myself but an easy test to set up none the less. I'd be very very surprised to see a liner relationship. It takes time for heat to dissipate and absorb into water. "A watched pot never boils..." If your flow rate was 100x of what it is today i'd put money on a melted piston as the water is moving so fast it does not have time to absorb any heat

The flip side is also true. If you don't flow water at all you'll stick a piston because water can only absorb so much energy/heat.

Its a balancing act but unless you guys have a pro level tune you are way over thinking it
 
Location
Stockton
Well cooling pressure dosent make sense? what would you need a pressure to? You need a flow (move hot water away from cylinder)

My point is, you can get more water flow in/out of the cylinder, by putting that distribution block in. You can only flow as much as you can "tap off your pump" (pump outlets / though hull cooling lines)

The cooling block also allows you to put water where you want it and bypass the traditional coolant passage layout.
 
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