- Location
- Fresno, CA
I'll be cutting the ribs out tonight after work and then turfing the side of the hull so I hopefully 1 won't have anymore rubbing issues. Hopefully that's the last issue with this project haha.
Factory B Pipe Screw Adjustments for Best Low To Mid Power
- Thread starter METALMULISHA559
- Start date
I grind/sand the rib down flush with die grinder or dermal..in the close areas, then recheck fit... if the chamber now has clearance? Id hold off on the turfing the side..
The clearance is normally only as think as the turf...
I hate getting exhaust and engine vibration transferring into the hull and up the poll to the bars....
- Location
- Fresno, CA
My biggest issue I didn't have the right tool but I'm gonna pick up a oscillating Milwaukee tool tonight so I can chop the rub off and sand it down smooth. I always hate the process of upgrades but love the end result of extra performance. I hope the B Pipe will be a noticeable gain compared to the Coffman sizzle after all this hassle lol
- Location
- Fresno, CA
Last night I did one of the ribs by hand with a hacksaw blade haha. I'll let ya know how the tool works compared to that haha. I just want this thing installed so I can go test tomorrow.
- Location
- California
I think the adjustment screws always becomes a debate on the B-Pipe but one thing is always consistent...
The guys that actually build performance skis @waxhead @john zigler, Group K, always say to keep the top and mid closed and only open the bottom.
Group K
"Exhaust pipe cooling, and exhaust plumbing is a very important part of the 845 kit. The FPP “B” pipe head-pipe comes with three adjustable water input screws (we refer to them as top, middle and bottom). The primary water input point for all SuperJet setups should be the bottom screw (1/2 to ¾ turns open from bottomed). The middle screw should always remain completely closed. Opening the top screw has the ability to induce a large improvement of bottom end power, but opening this top screw also results in a significant loss in peak rpm ability. The 845 has such abundant bottom end power that opening the top screw is virtually unnecessary, and questionably beneficial. We conducted all of our 845 testing and development with water input at the bottom screw only, and we strongly recommend that setup to most 845 owners. We have observed that many freestyle riders run their machines with the bottom and middle screws closed, and admitting all the water at the top screw. We consider this to be a very bad setup for several reasons. Since water admitted at the top screw seriously harms peak rpms, it is virtually impossible to do meaningful and accurate impeller pitch testing, or high speed carb tuning while the top screw is open. In addition, the admission of water at the top screw causes much higher back-pressure in the exhaust that results in a slightly increased detonation risk (when compared to admitting the same amount of water at the bottom screw).
All in all, we recommend to open the top adjuster as little as possible (on any SuperJet setup) to get the bottom end acceleration you are after.
We conducted all our 845 testing with a Jet Worx pressure valve in the cooling line that feeds the pipe stinger. This valve helps to reduce the amount of water being admitted into the waterbox at lower engine rpms. The result is much improved acceleration and response during lower rpm maneuvers. We strongly recommend this valve for any 845 owner."
Once you get everything going good and set the way the experts suggest then start playing with the screws and see what you prefer. Maybe your final setting will be different but at least you will know what each screw actually changes.
The guys that actually build performance skis @waxhead @john zigler, Group K, always say to keep the top and mid closed and only open the bottom.
Group K
"Exhaust pipe cooling, and exhaust plumbing is a very important part of the 845 kit. The FPP “B” pipe head-pipe comes with three adjustable water input screws (we refer to them as top, middle and bottom). The primary water input point for all SuperJet setups should be the bottom screw (1/2 to ¾ turns open from bottomed). The middle screw should always remain completely closed. Opening the top screw has the ability to induce a large improvement of bottom end power, but opening this top screw also results in a significant loss in peak rpm ability. The 845 has such abundant bottom end power that opening the top screw is virtually unnecessary, and questionably beneficial. We conducted all of our 845 testing and development with water input at the bottom screw only, and we strongly recommend that setup to most 845 owners. We have observed that many freestyle riders run their machines with the bottom and middle screws closed, and admitting all the water at the top screw. We consider this to be a very bad setup for several reasons. Since water admitted at the top screw seriously harms peak rpms, it is virtually impossible to do meaningful and accurate impeller pitch testing, or high speed carb tuning while the top screw is open. In addition, the admission of water at the top screw causes much higher back-pressure in the exhaust that results in a slightly increased detonation risk (when compared to admitting the same amount of water at the bottom screw).
All in all, we recommend to open the top adjuster as little as possible (on any SuperJet setup) to get the bottom end acceleration you are after.
We conducted all our 845 testing with a Jet Worx pressure valve in the cooling line that feeds the pipe stinger. This valve helps to reduce the amount of water being admitted into the waterbox at lower engine rpms. The result is much improved acceleration and response during lower rpm maneuvers. We strongly recommend this valve for any 845 owner."
Once you get everything going good and set the way the experts suggest then start playing with the screws and see what you prefer. Maybe your final setting will be different but at least you will know what each screw actually changes.
- Location
- Fresno, CA
I finally got it installed after several days and modifications and curse words lol. Even with the ribs shaved off the chamber and couple rubbed a bit on the hull. The gas tank also rubbed on the weld bead on the chamber as well. I Jammed turf in between both so we shall see how it holds up. This was hands down the hardest bolt on upgrade I've ever done. licoriceing B Pipe better be worth it! Thanks for all of your tips and help guys!
Attachments
- Location
- HUNTINGTON BEACH CA
Also grind/file the top of your bed plate on the front engine mount. I glued turf on the hull also.
- Location
- Fresno, CA
Do the ski ran freaking amazing but I broke a tooth off of the coupler dampner so now I gotta take it all back off and pull the motor haha. But that will give me another chance to inspect everything and glue turf to the gas tank!
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
My pipe guru told me years ago, the closer to the exhaust ports you add water , will give the best bottom end. That means the top screw on b pipe