Factory B Pipe Tuning - Optimal Head Pipe Temperature?

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undieingbreed

Location
Pa
fastgtfairlane said:
someone else mentioned it earlier. it sounds like you have too much water exiting the head and not enough going to the headpipe. try plugging off 2 of the exits on the head so more will flow through the headpipe and see what that does. 4 outlets with 2 inlets is too much flow which will not allow enough heat transfer to actually remove the heat. personally still a fan of a dedicated exhaust cooling line going into the bottom of the headpipe right from the pump.
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I think that's referencing the guy with the dasa, I have a 701 with single cooling as of right now. I will take the ride plate off and take a look at the pump to hull fitting and hose, worth a shot. I am leaning toward running dual cooling although I've never had to on this ski / setup before what ever is going on.
 
S

Sparx

MTRHEAD said:
My b-pipe header pipe casting sizzles water immediately up top. On the area where the three bolts are to the cylinder manifold. This is due to NO water for about 3/4” on both the head pipe and the manifold. This is on a stock boat. The casting water jacket has to stop and solid aluminum is what is left. I’m assuming there is some variation in the aluminum thickness hence some get very vey hot. Also ones that are opened up to 49mm probably see more heat too. Anyways I’m going to swap my line around this weekend and see what putting water in at the top does versus the bottom. I’ve always had dry pipes and noticed this just by chance one day recently
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Hey MTRHEAD

Sorry to bump up an old post. Did you find a solution to your hot bolts on your head pipe?
 
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