Factory B Pipe- Wammer Mod/Port Match and Dual Cool

Woody

Need to save my money!!
Location
Long Island
and i hope nobody has ever asked this before...sorry if you're repeating yourself. i should've done a search before i made this thread lol
 

Woody

Need to save my money!!
Location
Long Island
The tuning info is available for free on Wam's site, under then installation instructions.

so you're telling me that they're charging you an extra 150 just to tune it? if thats the case I necessarily cannot do it but I can have one of the guys that I ride with do it for me lol.

so thats it? there is no other benefit to this "Wammer Mod?"
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
The extra 150 bucks their charging is to port the exhaust manifold & head pipe and to tap the exhaust manifold for dual cooling. Opening up the exhaust & head pipe section increases the overall chamber volume, which effectively broadens the power range. The diverging walls reduce flow resistance both in and out of the cylinder. The burnt gases flow out easily with a minimum of turbulence and any fuel mixture which has spilled into the exhaust is rammed back into the engine more efficiently. Also by increasing the head pipe diameter with a shallow taper allows the exhaust gases to expand more gently. The result is a decreased loss of kinetic pulse energy than if the gases were to expand rapidly and abruptly on passing from a straight header into the diffuser section of the expansion chamber.
 

Gunter83

Trainwreck
Location
Greenville, SC
I have one, and It rips right after you bolt it on. port matched+bored also right outta the box, which makes it rip even more. I'd recommend it to anyone who's thinking of getting a B pipe. can't beat the sweet port job + boring they do for 150$ without having to send it back out to get it done. I was running stock everything and just slapped the B pipe on my ski and it is definitely snappier with more low+top end. feels like I got about 4-5more MPH outta it with just the pipe up top. Can't wait to get some domes+ a head after the new year.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
for the extra 150 how much more power over the fact-B are you going to get? sounds to me like the extra money would do better towards heads or something else
 

Woody

Need to save my money!!
Location
Long Island
The extra 150 bucks their charging is to port the exhaust manifold & head pipe and to tap the exhaust manifold for dual cooling. Opening up the exhaust & head pipe section increases the overall chamber volume, which effectively broadens the power range. The diverging walls reduce flow resistance both in and out of the cylinder. The burnt gases flow out easily with a minimum of turbulence and any fuel mixture which has spilled into the exhaust is rammed back into the engine more efficiently. Also by increasing the head pipe diameter with a shallow taper allows the exhaust gases to expand more gently. The result is a decreased loss of kinetic pulse energy than if the gases were to expand rapidly and abruptly on passing from a straight header into the diffuser section of the expansion chamber.

Wow...thats some answer. Thanks!

Thank you everybody else as well...I'll have to check the funds to see if I have the extra $150 to spare...
 

Mike W

Infidel
Location
North Florida
Group K does does the same port matching/boring for around $100. Might as well just bite the bullet and get the pipe ready to bolt on instead of having to send it off again.
 
Q

QuickMick

Guest
The extra 150 bucks their charging is to port the exhaust manifold & head pipe and to tap the exhaust manifold for dual cooling. Opening up the exhaust & head pipe section increases the overall chamber volume, which effectively broadens the power range. The diverging walls reduce flow resistance both in and out of the cylinder. The burnt gases flow out easily with a minimum of turbulence and any fuel mixture which has spilled into the exhaust is rammed back into the engine more efficiently. Also by increasing the head pipe diameter with a shallow taper allows the exhaust gases to expand more gently. The result is a decreased loss of kinetic pulse energy than if the gases were to expand rapidly and abruptly on passing from a straight header into the diffuser section of the expansion chamber.

Wow...thats some answer. Thanks!

Thank you everybody else as well...I'll have to check the funds to see if I have the extra $150 to spare...


After reading 0#'s answer.. heck ide buy it. 150 for the bore job.. these guys CANT make a living for 5 bucks an hour. You take the pipe to someone to have it done and I bet they charge you 150 easy. The dual cooling yes you could do yourself.
 
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Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
Xscream charges about the same to do the same modification.

ah beat me to it. Doesn't matter where you send it or how you buy this upgrade to the b-pipe. sounds well worth the $$$ IMO. I am going to send mine off the group k or xscream before daytona.
 

dbrutherford

Parts Whore
Location
Fairmont, WV
I had Group K bore my manifold and head pipe. It was $90 shipped back to me. So add the shipping I spent to send it to them. Also add the drill/tap for dual cooling. Not worth $150 in my opinion but if I was buying new, I would just go ahead and get it. Makes it simplier and less time wasted!
 

cookerq62

Life's Been Good
Location
Upper Bucks, PA
Boring it yourself is risky and you will not get everything out of the pipe if you do it yourself. I personally would get a modified one from Team Scream. The modifications they do are pretty extensive and aren't something you are going to be able to do yourself. B-pipes are tricky to setup and most I have ridden are just good enough. If your getting one from an engine builder you'll get tuning specs that will be close to spot on and you won't be swapping jets, burning hoses, waiting on parts, or wondering if its setup right. In trying to get mine setup right I probably spent well over that $150 in jets, tools, wasted gas, and gaskets. I would rather be better at riding the ski than working on it.
 
so,

bore the manifold to 48mm
bore the headpipe to 48mm

drill and tap the mani for dual cooling....

is there more to it?? any stinger mods?



I know Team scream mods the stinger as well.....and dont most Bpipes come bored at 46mm nowadays anyhow?

I know the old school designs were only open to about 42mm...


if you have an angle grinder and compressor with a rasp it'd take about an hour to do the boring on both pieces...
 
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