First Superjet!!! Stoked!!!

V

Vortex

Location
Southeast
ozzo098 said:
Yes it is... I'm thinking I'll just run the dual cooling route and T it off right before the pissers so all three work. I'm just not a fan of having an open thru-hull fitting...

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Could just cap the unused ones off with a vacuum cap and hose clamp.
 
Zero Client

Zero Client

BeerrroooOOOT!!!
Location
Douglasville, GA
Seems similar to the deal I got on my original round nose. Hows the compression test look? There is so much you could and should do to this not sure where to start exactly.... I would personally start with validating engine compression, then proceed right away at rebuilding the carbs with OEM Mikuni kits. Every single carb I've ever come across always seems to need this. New fuel lines and filters too.

Take everything out. Clean and inspect one item at a time before re-installation. Expect to spend between $500 ~ $1500 on a restoration including paint. The gap in this price would have more to do with hard/large item repair - ie top ends, cranks, carbs etc. If those are all OK then the cost should stay around $500. Just a battery could be $100 +/- depending
 
ozzo098

ozzo098

Location
Syracuse, NY
Zero Client said:
Seems similar to the deal I got on my original round nose. Hows the compression test look? There is so much you could and should do to this not sure where to start exactly.... I would personally start with validating engine compression, then proceed right away at rebuilding the carbs with OEM Mikuni kits. Every single carb I've ever come across always seems to need this. New fuel lines and filters too.

Take everything out. Clean and inspect one item at a time before re-installation. Expect to spend between $500 ~ $1500 on a restoration including paint. The gap in this price would have more to do with hard/large item repair - ie top ends, cranks, carbs etc. If those are all OK then the cost should stay around $500. Just a battery could be $100 +/- depending
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I haven't personally done a compression test on it and won't until spring because it's winterized but I'm sure it's good, I trust the seller. The battery is brand new so that's all set, I will be painting it myself so it won't be too expensive, I plan on replacing all the fuel lines and filters as well as all the cooling water lines. I also plan to install a bilge pump. I'm going to re-turf it as well.

I don't plan on pulling the motor apart, the ski runs fine and has been used a few times every year. I'm not currently in the position to spend a bunch of money on it so you know "if it's not broken, don't fix it"

As for the carbs, they're Novi which I've done a little research on but not sure if they're 44s or 48s... I'm guessing 48s because it seems no penny was spared when this ski was originally built into a race ski.



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ozzo098

ozzo098

Location
Syracuse, NY
Honda118 said:
A lot of guys say the white hulls (96/97) are stronger than the ones that came after them.
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I'm not sure if it came from the factory reinforced or if the original owner did it but there is definitely some unpainted fiberglass in the engine compartment, it feels pretty solid.

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