First time build - FX-1

Laid a layer of whatever twill I got from Home Depot. It's probably like 3oz or something. Hopefully that ties together the repair nicely. Whether it's wrong or it's right, this is how it's going to stay (after sanding to a seamless transition of course). If it fails later on I'll just be right back here again. I'm anxious to move on and get this on the water.
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I learned a few things tonight. One is that my prep work on the bottom deck sucked. Lol. I slacked on the sanding and the paint only enhanced the imperfections. Oh well. It's going to get beached and scratched to hell anyway. I'll take more time on the top deck.

I also learned that I really like appliance epoxy. I went with it on the bottom deck so that any scratches or gouges can be easily (and inexpensively) touched up. It lays down so much better and thicker than normal spray paint. My paint job still isn't perfect but I'm happier with it than any other rattle can project I've done.

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Gonna get some more work done this weekend. Since the weather wont cooperate enough to paint the top deck I plan to do some other things. I have a few questions. How many boards of that pink foam will it take to refoam my ski roughly? I hate returning stuff so any extra will probably just be wasted lol. Also, do you guys glue the new pieces of foam together or not? I'm just thinking about which way would provide more structural support. I know im going to try and pack them in as tight as possible but I still wonder if gluing them might be best???? what do you guys think? I'll be trying to get my rickter adjustable holds installed as well as long as my honey do list doesn't get too long. I think that will be fairly self explanatory but if any of you have any advice with installing those I'm all ears. I think I'll use epoxy and filler between the inserts and the glass they butt against. Thanks for the help fellas.
 
Pack the XPS in as best as possible, then pour in some polyurethane two part foam to lock it al together. I would check that you don't have any leaks in there first. Fill it up with water and see if you get any drips.


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My latest effort, packed it in as tight as i could, sanding pieces as needed or cut, section of tray i cut out sits directly on top of it
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Ok so the RRP inserts for the footholds will definitely interfere with the exhaust. I dont have access to a welder so can i just cut out a 12" section of the pipe and replace it with rubber exhause hose? I dont see why it would be a problem but i figured i would ask. Thoughts?
 

VXSXH20

Sionis Industries
Location
Mid-Atlantic
You can lower your exhaust tube and leave it intact as one piece. Remove the tube, then cut a new hole a few inches below the original on the bulkhead. Then you will Have to remove or reshape your tray foam to accommodate it. This will in return get your piping below the tray.. Then you can run more foothold options

Not the greatest visual here but SpecialFX does this on his boats, you can see the hole below the stock location and the pipe will drop down lower

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I finally got some time to work this weekend. I rebuilt my carb, defoamed the tray, moved my exhaust, and started putting pink foam back in. I still have more than half of the tray to re foam. I know you guys said to just move the exhaust pipe lower but I went with the radiator tube. It just seemed easier that way for some reason. Anyways, here's some pics.

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that's true. But as long as its a small leak, I'll have drain plugs installed to take care of that. I guess I better add some silicone in there also just as a double measure. that hose was insanely tight when I put it on the steel pipe so I don't see how it could leak that much. Plus I put hose clamps on. We'll see how it goes. Fingers crossed.
 
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