Super Jet first time builder... 96 RN

[jefster03]

Ii recently bought a 96 RN and having a blast as I worked my way up the learning curve again (Had a 90 SN several years ago), until this past weekend I was out and hopping around and all of a sudden it sounded like i sucked up a tin can...stopped and turns out the motor snapped off the motor mounts. Seems like its a good time to work in some entry level modifications/ repaint etc.

This is what the ski has as of now

1996 RN Superjet 701cc.
The hull is cut 2in off the back
Blowsion tubbies
R&D ride plate
UMI -2 turn plate
Shortened pole
Straight bars
Blowsion billet throttle lever
Built in Footholds
auto Bilge
hood straps


So the question is... Where do I start? I downloaded the Shop manual and will be using that to disassemble, unless there is a tried and true best order for removal?

What Things should I look for when i pull the motor out to assess the damage?

I'd like to make it a freestyle ski (i wanna flip) For starters I'm thinking

New motor mounts, Engine Straps, reinforce mounts and handle-pole area, if I can find a cheap one a pipe (do i need to do anything when adding a pipe?), angled pump cone? paint


I'm between ft. Myers and Sarasota on the west coast of fl... any advice or other builders in the area that wouldn't mind my prying eyes watching/helping on your builds as a way to learn and to bounce questions off of would be much appreciated

Thanks
Jeff


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[CRJ]

hey im in ft myers for the week! small world. really just start pulling it apart. if it looks damaged if probably is. im guessing all you need is new motor mounts. if you want to bring it by the place im staying ill look at it for you, im in cape coral north of embers. you can PM me if you like.

 

[jefster03]

pm'd

 

[jefster03]

didn't get a chance to meet up with CRJ but i think its more then just motor mounts

 

[jefster03]

is there a trick to splitting the case? I've got everything off and the 8 bolts out off the bottom...is there somewhere to pry? without breaking it

 

[IS0LD0UT]

Did u pull the flywheel and stator. If so there are a few small indention areas where a flat screwdriver can be put and twisted to get the cases split. Hard to explain what it looks like but follow the seam of the cases and u will see it.

 

[jefster03]

how do I remove the Stator? and if found this on the side near where the starter attaches... I'm a newbie and trying not to break anything as I disassemble.

 

[IS0LD0UT]

You have to pull the flywheel first. The stator is behind and has 2 screws which would hold the cases together. Get a puller like this for the flywheel.

http://www.harborfreight.com/46-piece-bolt-puller-set-37824.html
Also when you pull the flywheel with that just put the puller screws in like 7 turns, if you tighten them down they will go into the coils.
Also to remove your flywheel bolt you will need a flywheel holder or put rope down a sparkplug hole, or a impact gun.

More info here
http://www.shopsbt.com/pdfs/y650701x.pdf

 

[ajmps1]

Impact gun is the easiest way to pull the flywheel and if you don't have one already it is a good tool to have. It looks like your motors been apart before...

 

[jefster03]

how about removing the coupler from the crank to replace the seals? and how do i determine if these are stock carbs/size? thanks!!

 

[JetManiac]

View attachment 237302View attachment 237303 how about removing the coupler from the crank to replace the seals? and how do i determine if these are stock carbs/size? thanks!!

Look like stock dual 38s, but remove a flame arrestor and see how many bolts hold the red adapter on.
3 bolts = 38mm and 4 bolts = 44mm

Heat rear of coupler with a torch alot! Then it will spin right off.

 

[jefster03]

Thanks Chris!!

 

[jefster03]

so I ordered and received new gaskets, new mounts, new crank seals, new pistons Kenny keepers, a new mid shaft coupler set and dampener. a b-bipe is in the mail should get here tomorrow... I've read through the sticky yamaslut posted for reassembly, and i have the shop manual... is R50 oil he talks about the same is the yamalube 2 stroke oil? and 1211- is there a comparable product and/or where can ii buy that? is there a benefit to getting the engine powdercoated? other then looks? i.e the bead blasting removes any rust and coating lessens potential for future corrosion? and with the piston rings with a stock cylinder do i need to measure the gap (special calibers?) or should i be okay since they are stock size.

 

[jackmarcus]

Don't bother spending the money to powdercoat. Go to your local hardware store or Automotive parts store and pick High Heat or Engine Paint its in a rattle can Rustoluem makes a good one thats what I used on my build and its held up for over a season and no signs of wear and it will help from future corrosion.
Next if you are looking for all the lubricants and sealants and loctites I think the easy way to go is go on SBT they sell a kit with everything you need I found this out after I already bought everything and the kit is much cheaper and saves way more time.

 

[jefster03]

Some in the process of dissembling I lost one bolt... the rear port side bolt for the cylinder to case... I've looked at the spreadsheet in the tech forum for the size... it has it listed as Sz8 M10x1.25x55 30mmthread with the macmastercarr item# 91287A373 but when I looked up the part number it came back as a 1.5 thread... any ideas which one I i actually need? and or does anyone have 1 laying around so I don't have to buy 10?

 

[IS0LD0UT]

@JetManiac

 

[JetManiac]

In stock.

 

[iangdesign]

That flywheel looks like it's going to be fun to get off! Soak it overnight in penetrant and use a little heat...not too much though as you could damage the stator behind it. Another tip is mark around the screws where the stator is set so you don't mess up the timing.