Super Jet Flywheel comparisons

[bondra131]

Anyone out there ever ran both a lightened oem flywheel on their 701 and also ran an aftermarket light charging flywheel such as jetnetics? Wondering if having the stock flywheel lightened is as good as an aftermarket or are aftermarkets really worth the money? Having the oem machined is much cheaper..

 

[Matt_E]

Machined OEM was not noticeable to me. Aftermarket was somewhat noticeable, but hardly several hundred dollars worth.

 

[#ZERO]

Most of my stock lightened flywheels are within a half-pound or three quarters of a pound comparison between the lightest aluminum flywheels of the same type. The aluminum charging flywheels are more than five times the price of a lightened stocker which are more prone to failure with cracking hubs, spinning ring gears, vibrating loose from hub heat expansion, weaker & smaller magnets that through the timing off or won't charge the battery well. A stock lightened flywheel will perform just as well or better than an aftermarket aluminum charging flywheel in my opinion because the lightest portion of the weight differential is from the aluminum hub itself which causes a majority of the problems. Alloy expands at twice the rate of steel so the aluminum flywheels need to be constantly re-torqued or your expensive investment could be ruined in seconds.

 

[aramis]

A #Zero lightened flywheel was noticeable on my ski. This was the "standard" one without the ring gear drilled. I had finally got the carbs just right, along with the just-right Epic curve, before putting on the flywheel and it was a noticeably snappier response. Even on the trailer, it was noticeably different in sound and snap. Ported 735, Epic, stock 38's, stock intake manifold, carbon reeds, ada head with 185 psi, b-pipe, cold fusion couplers, solas mag with skat 11/17.

The other thing I will say is that perfect pump shimming can also affect throttle response (as well as the other obvious side effects). I was suprised how noticeable a quick test (just 1mm difference at rear of pump) was while running on the trailer once I had everything else dialed in perfectly. Maybe that's negligible in the water due to water load on the impeller, I don't know...but even my wife said "man that thing sounds angry now, what did you do"?

 

[Flash-FX]

Most of my stock lightened flywheels are within a half-pound or three quarters of a pound comparison between the lightest aluminum flywheels of the same type. The aluminum charging flywheels are more than five times the price of a lightened stocker which are more prone to failure with cracking hubs, spinning ring gears, vibrating loose from hub heat expansion, weaker & smaller magnets that through the timing off or won't charge the battery well. A stock lightened flywheel will perform just as well or better than an aftermarket aluminum charging flywheel in my opinion because the lightest portion of the weight differential is from the aluminum hub itself which causes a majority of the problems. Alloy expands at twice the rate of steel so the aluminum flywheels need to be constantly re-torqued or your expensive investment could be ruined in seconds.

Yep...well defined.
I've had a few aluminum charging flywheels...Lightened stock works just fine.
If you're in question, just another 100cc+ and you won't feel the difference.

Total loss is a whole different adventure.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I have a nice Jetinetics paperweight here, I would use it for a doorstop but its not heavy enough for that.

 

[bondra131]

Lol sounds like I'll just have the oem one lightened then. Or don't do anything at all...

Aramis - about the pump shimming. I have had my motor and pump out quite a few times and no longer remember how it as shimmed originally from the factory but it once was original because I bought the ski bone stock. I have motor mount shims in place that made the fit of the couplers look the best from what I could see and my pump is not shimmed at all. I have two thin pump shims in the tool box. Anyways.. How do you go about shimming? How would you know when it's aligned perfectly without any tension on the drive shaft?

 

[scotts2t]

I have a nice Jetinetics paperweight here, I would use it for a doorstop but its not heavy enough for that.

You should dig a hole for that sucker, i know of one casted in a concrete foundation around here.

 

[bondra131]

You should dig a hole for that sucker, i know of one casted in a concrete foundation around here.

Lmao funny but ya know you could get at least 300 bucks for the damn things if ya don't like them and they are in good shape! Glad I found out they suck before I bought one.. Saw two of em sell last week on here

 

[deftons56]

Lmao funny but ya know you could get at least 300 bucks for the damn things if ya don't like them and they are in good shape! Glad I found out they suck before I bought one.. Saw two of em sell last week on here

I have one that was in my 61x blaster. I really like em, I wouldn't say they suck unless they were broken. My 61x blaster has similar mods to my 62t blaster and the 61x revs up much quicker. I'm parting out my 61x ski and think I might put the aluminum flywheel in the 62t...

 

[LegDragger64]

Ive got them all here . Had them on scale one day and there is about an 8oz difference down the line , each being 8oz lighter than the next starting with stock lightened to jetinetics aluminum with steel hub , down to rad charging , down to MSD TL being lightest . Ive run them all and am now running stock lightened . Gets me the best hookup in rough water with 8mm pv monster .

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Oh its a beautiful part, two things the flywheel key dug a groove into the inside of the taper and the magnets are toast, magnets that are supposed to last 600 years mind you, no warranty, no way to fix it , might make a nice looking wall clock lol

 

[bondra131]

Hmm.. So some people like em and others have them fall apart from normal use. I think I'll just lighten the stock and call it good.. Cheap and reliable. I have the 6m6 stator and flywheel in my 62t cuz I parted out my 650 to build the 701. Going to have jet works port and 771 big bore my 61x cylinders so I think that will rev up plenty fast enough

 

[SUPERJET-113]

I ran a Jetinetics charging for 8 years with no problems on a basic LTD. 701+ till some hairline cracks formed coming out of the hub area. That eventually led to it being slightly off balance enough to lose spark. I caught it before it grenaded.
I never had to re-tourque, just lock tighted the bolt every time if it ever had to come off for some reason.. That was one of the 1st. gen jetinetics, before the steel hub was introduced.

IMO, going from a stocker to a alum charging is a very big noticeable difference in throttle response and worth the $300 for a good used one... BUT, going to MSD total loss from the alum charging was even more of kick in the pants!

 

[bondra131]

Maybe these guys who have problems with the jetnetics lightweights are just having operator error issues lol. If you few other guys like the jetnetics and ran it for years.. It's all about the green lock tight that bolt won't come back out. I might try it but definitely don't want to go to total loss.. Pain in the ass I want my battery to stay charged and I've seen nothing but problems come from total loss skis. Breaking down left and right. I like to ride.. Not constantly have mechanical issues especially ones that I don't know how to fix because I have no clue what is wrong. Pisses me off!

 

[aramis]

Lol sounds like I'll just have the oem one lightened then. Or don't do anything at all...

Aramis - about the pump shimming. I have had my motor and pump out quite a few times and no longer remember how it as shimmed originally from the factory but it once was original because I bought the ski bone stock. I have motor mount shims in place that made the fit of the couplers look the best from what I could see and my pump is not shimmed at all. I have two thin pump shims in the tool box. Anyways.. How do you go about shimming? How would you know when it's aligned perfectly without any tension on the drive shaft?

I haven't had time to find the thread here, but I think it's in the Tech Faq section...a perfect write-up on shimming the pump & motor. it goes something like this: You want to center the driveshaft in the midshaft opening (without the midshaft in place), that's pretty much it for the pump shims. Then, install the midshaft and align the motor coupler to it (without dampener in place) to determine motor shims. Then install the dampener. Motor aligning is tough due to the X,Y,Z and angles too.