Full Square Nose Superjet Restore + youtube

[Ryan Stewart]

I've restored a number of jetskis, but I wanted this one to be special.
I wanted to do everything possible and do it properly. Cut zero corners.
My other goal was to make it make it after market as possible while making it look OEM.

Lots of pictures, and lots of detail, so sit back and enjoy!!
Also, let me know if you have any questions, would love to help!
Next project and forum post will be a Yamasaki X2 conversion full restore + 144 pump.

Ill start off with the final product picture, and then go into the project in detail.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Heres how it started.
Had to drive out of state to pick it up. But it had a Bpipe and nice carbs and head to begin with. but the hull needed work as i found out when i got home.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Had to glass in / repair a spot inside the engine bay.
It was punctured all the way through and brittle.
I used cabosil, epoxy, S cloth, and random strand glass for that repair.
I then sanded everything down and cleaned everything with engine degreaser, dawn dish soap, and acetone.
From there i added 5200 to all the inlets going through-hull and added some to the seemlines as well.
Last step I did was applying TotalBilge grey coat to the engine bay to give it a nice sheen and to protect it against oils / gas.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Polished all my parts that I could polish. Really addicting to restore old parts!!
Just used sandpaper from 400 grit to 2000 grit. and then finished with a compound then polish with a random orbital polisher.

 

[jpswift1]

I'd say you hit a homerun and that's exactly the theme I try to go for with my builds as well. I must say, it looks absolutely amazing.........like a brand new machine! This kind of attention to detail is what really sets aside high quality builds like this one from the others. And I have to add, this is one of the best SN Superjet builds I've seen. Nice work!

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Some pictures of me repairing the hull.
Goal is to NOT sand over corners. Only sand over flat areas.
If you do have to sand over corners, be very light and do as very little as possible and make as long of strides as you can to keep those natural lines going.

I first grinded out any brittle areas (this ski had a ton).
I then made a mixture of epoxy, pulled strands of fiberglass, and cabosil to thicken it to the consistency of tooth paste (not peanut butter, more chances for air pockets).
I used that mixture to fill in all the gashes, namely tried to use for flat surfaces. If you have to use it for chine lines, its going to be really hard to sand and youll have uneven chine lines.
I used TotalBoat epoxy fairing compound to form the chine lines and fill in everything else, because its REALLY strong stuff and is also really easy to sand.
Youll see how good the hull looks in my primer pictures.
I used too much of it in my pictures below, youll actually sand 90% of it off anyways, so it was a waist.
You want to sand it down so that you once more see the white instead of green.
This will ensure you even with the hull and everything is filled in.

Reminder. DONT USE A HEAVY SANDER ON CHINE LINES OR CORNERS. use the palm of your hand and press lightly.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

screw this part. Literally. And the fact that ive had to do it on 4/4 of my skis ive owned is silly.
Let me scare you for a second..... YES YOUR SKI IS WATER LOGGED AND YES IT ADDS LOTS OF WEIGHT AND YES YOU SHOULD FIX IT AND YES YOU WILL BOB UP AND DOWN.
A refoamed ski is magical... its amazing... it makes you fill like a feather on the water. I literally have to push my ski into the water in order to get onto it because of how boyant it is.
Also, i can lift up the back of my ski with my pinky... Can you all do that? propably not. =]

Anywoo. Heres how you do it:
Grinder, and make cuts like my first picture. Avoid hitting your exhaust pipe, and make sure to leave bond lines to rest your fiberglass onto. Dont grind right up against to an edge.
Next, crowbar will be used 90% of the time. Just jam it in and leverage it. and keep going.
Also, try to use a Multi-Tool with a scrapper attachment. Works well!
use a pressure wassure to finish cleaning it up. It also comes out easy when wet with a wood chizzle.
Once its all out. use Marine 5200 Sealant and go crazy, use a hole bottle. just gunk it onto all the areas water can get in.
Theres 4 bolt holes from the pump system that need to have 5200 on it.
All the waterlines and pvc pipes need 5200 on them. and then theres like 4 hidden holes up front that need filling.
Once you think you got it... fill the entire engine bay with water and see if you see water in the tray area after 2 hours. If there is, look for where its leaking

At this point i also installed RadDudez larger round nose exhaust which was one benefit of the Round Nose compared to the Square nose... but no more!! this baby is going to be on par with a round nose.
I sealed it with 5200 and rivets.
I found it easier to first fill the old exhaust holes and make new ones. That way its centered and aesthetically pleasing.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

additional pics of tray area. Youll notice i used normal silicone, and i imediately regreted it, so i ripped it all off and put 5200 on it, but i dont have any pictures of that.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Some engine and pump pics.
Not much to say here.
I did decide to do a 61x/62t.
I went with a 760 manifold but then realised i had to buy a rhaas speed plate conversion to get the carbs to line up... so i wish i would have instead bought a nice ported aftermarket manifold instead. Ill be doing that on my next build.
Also, i had to tap an additonal waterline in this head since it was an older one.
I painted the engine when it was all together, because i didnt want to take it apart... but then i was convinced to make it a 61x/62t so i ended up taking it all apart and repainting it again. Live and learn =]
I also tapped a 2nd cooling line into the pump and then sealed the stock bilge on the pump. Converted the bilge line on hull into a 2nd cooling line.
Everyone should do that mod! its so easy and takes minutes to do.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

tapped a 2nd fuel pump line. I heard its bad to split off one. So i bought a drill bit and tapped in a little barb and sealed it with jbweld.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Finished foaming the tray area.
Used 2 part 2lb foam from USComposites website.
I love my picture with ductape and carbard. =]
End product is all that patters and a multitool with scraper does awesome work.
Then i used Biax fiberglass on the bottom and sidewalls.
Then i used random strand fiberglass on 2 more layers. also to go around corners since biax sucks for that.
Then i finished with S Cloth fiberglass to give it a smooth finish. also used for corners.
I then finished with some thickened epoxy to get in all the corners and to flatten anything. Cabosil was used for thickening to tooth paste consistancy. you can also pull some glass and throw in the concoction if you need to for certain areas..

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Primed and spot filled with Bondo Spot Putty.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Painted gloss white top and gloss blck bottom.
and added 2020 oem graphics.

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Took a gamble and bought the bilet pole from China, and boy did it turn out awesome.
Amazing quality. Pretty sure blowsion gets them from china too.
Packaging was awesome, and its holding up with how aggresive i am. Very very happy.
560$ after shipping. Thats like 1/3 the price

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Its getting late, gonna throw the remainder pictures up.. so let me know if you have any questions ill try and answer!

Heres my Youtube for this build and many more to come!

 

[Kohldanielzimmer]

Sweet build. Very nicely done. Link to Chinese pole?

 

[Ryan Stewart]

Sweet build. Very nicely done. Link to Chinese pole?

Dongguan ZD Precision Hardware Co., Ltd. - CNC Machining Parts, Quick Release Pin

Dongguan ZD Precision Hardware Co., Ltd., Experts in Manufacturing and Exporting CNC Machining Parts, Quick Release Pin and more other Products.

zd-ph.m.en.alibaba.com

Thats the company. Not sure if they still make it. They reached out to me and said they can make it for me. Alibaba is kinda weird, it notifys vendors i was looking for something and alot of cnc companies hit me up. This was the only guy that didnt need drawings provided. The guys name was Ran Lee.

 

[Quinc]

You make it all look so easy!

 

[DylanS]

Nice work!

 

[E350]

Pretty impressive:

jet ski, jet ski direct from Dongguan ZD Precision Hardware Co., Ltd. in CN

jet ski from Dongguan ZD Precision Hardware Co., Ltd.. Search High Quality jet ski Manufacturing and Exporting supplier on Alibaba.com.

zd-ph.en.alibaba.com

We need @Watcon and @JetManiac to have non-CCP manufacturers/sources like that state-side.