FX-1 FX1 Bogging - New to 2-strokes

Well here it goes...

My recent purchase has turned out to be all sorts of problems... First it was the cracks in the bottom from a previous owners attempt at reinforcement, and now a bogging issue after pulling the motor and hauling it 200 miles to college. This was my first engine pull on a jet ski, but I felt like I did a good job labeling everything and putting all parts back in their right places. The motor actually started and revved correctly after re-installing the motor. ( I even cracked open the celebratory first engine pull beer)

When removing the electrical box, I found about an inch and a half of water waiting inside for me. I let it air dry in front of a fan over night to insure it was completely dry before covering it all back up. After that, I took electric grease and smeared it all over the exposed connections. I pretty much smeared that stuff everywhere I could.

I hauled it 200miles and now it will not run correctly. The problem may be something I did in the engine pull, but I cannot think of what it was? Something vibrated the wrong way? Maybe the electrical went bad after the road trip?

The only thing that is different between before and after the trip was gas. It has a half tank from the previous owner in it. He said it was 3 months old, but when we test drove it, it ran fine. No sputters or hesitation. ---- I diluted it with some premium fuel and quicksilver premium 2-cycle outboard oil (read the outboard part didn't matter). Previous owner mixed at 32:1, I put in 40:1. Is it possible for the oil I poured into my 5gal gas can to not mix in properly? I haven't been around too many 2-strokes in my day.


ABOUT THE SKI:
95' FX1
milled head - had a compression test done before I bought it. 165 & 168
aftermarket F/A
ProTec ride plate
Jet Dynamics intake grate
Low pitch impeller

WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR:
Cleaned fuel filter - some small debris, but it blew out without too much constraint. It consistently holds a 3/4 to full fuel level.
Cleaned Carb - had some junk in it, but no water. Diaphragms looked good. ( Previous owner replaced them all this past year apparently)
Held the spark plug boots down - not sure if this does anything, but figured it might help if its a bad connection.
Pulled spark plugs - they are both pretty black. This will be the next thing I replace.
Flashlight in the spark plug hole - looked very oily/gunky. Hard to describe this. Kind of a bedliner look, but not rough...


HOW IT RUNS NOW:
It revs up like normal but then hits this "wall" of a bog. It will just sit there and bog way down, but will not die. I put it in the water (how i found the problem), and it would only take me to maybe 3 to 5 mph. Not even enough to raise the nose up any.

After having it not run on the water, I pulled her onto the trailer and had the same results in the driveway at home. Same constant bog when hitting the throttle.




Hopefully this is enough information to get a clear understanding of where I'm at.

I probably overlooked something, so anyones suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mace
 
I just put in some BR8HS's.. It sounded like she ran better in general, but it still bogged out around half throttle.

I tried checking the spark color, but it was almost too bright to see any spark. I know i saw a little blue spark on the rear cylinder. I am not sure if I saw mush of anything on the forward one. I am going to let it get a little darker and try it out again.
 
Well I tried completely fresh gas. Still bogging out.

I pulled my plugs the last two times I have tried to start it and they were both equally wet with gas.

Plug wires bad? I would test them, but I am 200 miles from home with limited hand tools.

I am going to tear the carb down again and check the needle/seat one more time..
 
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So I cleaned the carb out again. Needle/seat were okay. One of the jets had a small amount of debris in it, but nothing clogged up. Filter was good etc...


I looked over my engine pull pictures of the electrical box. It appears that I do not have a stock CDI. It is red, but without any branding on it.

Would a bad CDI cause these problems? I did have an inch and a half of water in there when I took the cover off..


UPDATE: I hit the ignition to only hear a click.. I grabbed the two connections coming out of the e-box that clip into other wires and jiggled them around.. It then started up.... May be unrelated, but I figure any information helps.


Anyone want to chime in? It's getting lonely haha
 
Location
Alabama
The problem could be many things. any part of the electrical system could cause the problem, A weak spark will allow the ski to run until the demand to burn fuel gets too high and then it fails. I have one of these,

http://tinyurl.com/3v5zchd

It tests the voltage output of your ignition. my cdi will jump the gap at around the 20 mark, about a turn in from the picture shown. it's best if you can test in the dark. if it does jump the gap, your electrical system is strong. if not, start testing at the spark plug cap, then coil, then cdi, then stator plate. the spark plug is fairly easy, but the rest you need a spare known working replacement. I had a similar problem with my dad's ski, and it was bad spark plug caps.
since you had water in the electrical box, I would clean all of the connections as best i could.
it could also be a fuel pump that isn't working properly. you can remove the return to tank fuel line, put it in a cup, turn the motor over and see if you are pumping fuel. be careful not to start a fire. there is also a small screen filter on the fuel pump side of the carb that could be clogged.
good luck.
 
Well i bought one of those testers. I cranked it over and both plugs jumped just under the 20 mark... I did not run it with the tester on... Should I try to get it to the point where it bogs and see if there is the same spark?


If the electrical system is good, I cannot understand why my plugs are wet after it start bogging out. A healthy spark + fuel + air should make things work. I know I have air, there seems to be fuel (wetting the plugs).. and there is spark....


I read somewhere that someone had there ski bogging down in the mid range due to the kill switch going out... Should I try and unplug the white & black wires to see if the issue resolves?

If I do disable the kill switch, would pulling the negative off the battery be the safest method to kill the engine?


I'll test the return line tomorrow.


Thanks man,
I appreciate it.
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
I'm gonna guess you plugged the pink over temp wire to a ground wire by mistake. Take apart your ebox and check. If you want, leave it un hooked and try starting it (tape it off). I put mine back together doing this and didn't start it first. Had to pull it back out etc... PITA.

If it bogs that bad and won't die, sounds like over temp is grounded. When you give it gas, does it go "WOOAAHHHHHHHH" coming from the carb?

Keep it up, sounds like your trying the right things.
 
Location
Alabama
if you want to check your kill switch by disconnecting it, just turn your idle down so it will die when you let off the throttle.
if you can, run the motor to a point where is runs ok, kill it and see if the plugs are still wet. then get it to bog and do the same.
try lighting the wet plug end with a lighter, maybe that isn't gas, but oil, or water. I would siphon all the gas out of the tank, and start with fresh gas.
can you get it to bog on the trailer? if so, then yes, use the tester to monitor the spark output.
how are you mixing your oil? are you measuring it with a ratio-rite type cup.
 
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Swap: After the engine pull/reinstall, it did run. I had it going for a couple minutes on the trailer before I hauled it up to school with me. When it bogs, it is more of a buuawwwwww kind of thing. I did not think it was temp sensor related because it does this as soon as you start it. I have been in the 105 to 110 range lately, but I cant imagine that causing the temp sensor to go off. I am thinking my next step is to pull the ebox open and look over everything though. I do however remember two green wires that seemed to connect into to other like colored wires.. I figured I got it right after it started up for the first time.


fx1mark: I pulled the return line off. It was returning fuel --a steady flow, but a small stream. I tried disconnecting the white and black wires without any success. Same kind of bog again. I pulled the spark plugs during a short idle, they were wet. I let it bog for a little while and then they came out very wet with a dark black fluid (almost all oil I assume). I have a spray bottle I am using to prime the carb, so I sprayed a little of the fresh fuel on the plug end to clean if off. I used the lighter to clean it all off before re-installing the plug. Does this premix fuel just not burn very well in general? The lighter did not make the sprayed plug "lite up" like I figured it would.

This is all fresh gas mixed 40:1 with Quicksilver Premium Plus Outboard oil. -- I had read online this was okay? I'm pretty sure the manual said any tc-w3 outboard oil will work.
I am mixing the oil by pouring 2/3 of a quart(directly out of the 1 gallon oil container) to 5 gallons of gas.


I am going to put the spark tester on later in the evening and see if the spark changes during the bog. This texas sun is way too bright.


thanks fellas,
 
..... I hope I did not just figure out what is wrong......

So if I set up this proportion --> 1/40 = x/640 --> (everything in ounces i.e. 128 ounces in 1 gallon * 5 = 640 ounces in 5 gallons)

that means 640*1 = 40*x therefore x = 16 ounces...

If I was using approximately 2/3 of a quart which would be ~21 ounces... That means I was putting in a ratio of 30:1....

That is more oil than recommended, but shouldn't it still run decently?

ahhh haha
 
I would also just replace ignition coils.
you did check the start/stop switch right? wierd problems can arise from these going bad

I have been running it on the trailer without the hood on.. The problem is immediate too. Doesn't take time to loose air or something like that.

Spark has been checked on plugs and with an inline tester (plugs into boot, then clips on top of spark plug) . They seem strong.
 
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Location
Alabama
If the spark tester is showing a strong spark while the motor is bogging, then I don't think your electrical system is the problem.
but, I see you said you used a lot of electric grease on your connections. I assume you mean dialectric grease. do a search on the internet and this is what you get.

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.

of course, non-conductive means no current flow, so be carefull how you use it.

your oil mix sounds fine, the motor should run fine 30:1 to 50:1.
can you test the compression?
have you tried fresh gas?
 
I am going to have to retest the spark during the bog tomorrow.. Or maybe even later on in the weekend so I have some help with me....

The spark testing tool I bought was a cheaper version from o'reillys that kept on springing apart and flying off when I gave the motor gas. Well I decided to hold the plug boot to steady it --- bad mistake-- i just got shocked something awful.. Felt like a hopped up stun gun haha...

The gas is fresh - 3 days old from a popular valero station.
I do not have a compression tester with me. It checked out at around 165 to 168 when I bought it though.

I guess checking out the e box is next on the agenda.... I mainly took the dielectric grease and put it all over the open terminals inside the ebox. I cannot remember exactly, but they were probably the positive/negative ones. I did not push any up into the connectors.
 
Location
Alabama
I was playing with my tester when i got it, using it on my riding lawnmower, and got shocked, it was not pleasant.
the dark, wet plugs indicate a spark problem. try to rig the tester so you can run the motor and watch the spark.
use tape or something.
 
I tried testing the spark with the engine running.. It is way too sunny outside to see anything, so I decided to crack open the ebox.

It turns out that I do have an MSD enhancer (PN 4253)... All of the connections to it seemed solid..

I did find that the pink wire(temp sensor I believe) easily came out of its boot. I pulled it out and then crammed it back in there for a solid connection.

I ran the ski to find that it still had the same problem.

I might try to disconnect the pink wire and give it a shot later this even.
 
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http://youtu.be/ANB8P1t5uus

There's the link for the spark test I just did....

It was difficult filming/starting/stopping, so hopefully the video does some justice...

I feel like the spark is cutting out, but it's possibly jumping behind the tester --- bad camera angle on my part.

What do ya think?
 
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