GC4 2008 SJ Build

[gc4]

Should be starting Friday/Saturday.

Probably will d-cut the ride plate as well.. Should I also cut it flush with the back of the ski (2008+ plates stick out about an inch)?

 

[gc4]

Just started to take it apart.. most of the connections to the motor have been disconnected and the gas tank and battery are out.

 

[Mdavies_02]

Love how clean it is. Keep us posted.

 

[gc4]

Engine is out, threw a new spring in the handle pole after I got it off, and I decided to throw the 228 grate on. Tomorrow will be prep day for fiberglass.

Was pretty simple to get the engine out, I just had to make sure everything was disconnected.

Does anyone know the torques for the engine mounting bolts. I threw on the ATP keepers but I don't know that the torques are to tighten them back down, so if anyone could share that piece of info that would be great.

Also, for future reference, what are the torques for the bolts that actually attach to the motor? Thanks for the help.

 

[gc4]

Another question, what's the best way to install a pump cone?

 

[steve-uk]

pack it with grease and bolt it on!

 

[gc4]

Haha I mean what do I need to take apart in the pump section to get it on? I don't want to pull something apart that has a gasket and then I need a new gasket if it crumbles. hah Just trying to avoid unnecessary work.

Anyway, more progress:

Sizing the glass to the hull.



Filled the bond line with epoxy and 404



Let the epoxy in the bond line set for about half an hour and then put down the glass. First put a 6" strip of 1708 biax over the bond line, then a layer of 1708 from the bottom to the hood lip. Tomorrow the other side of the hull.

 

[steve-uk]

just undo the four pump bolts, remove the reduction nozzle/steering nozzle, its easy to seperate there are nice tabs you can pry on with a flat screwdiver, there are no gaskets inbetween the pump sections, unbolt the old pump cone and bang your new on on!

 

[gc4]

Awesome, thanks steve

 

[gc4]

Daily update:


epoxy and 404 in the bond line


6" strip of 1708 biax across the bond line


bottom to hood lip strip of 1708 biax.. 1708 does not like to wrap over the hood lip, if i did it again i probably wouldn't use such a heavy weight cloth.


also put a piece of glass over the foam filling hole since the yamaha factory thinks that only a ty sticker is good enough


Tomorrow: handle pole bracket reinforcement/take the carbs apart to try and get the tamper proof caps out and install the primer set up

 

[gc4]

Getting ready to reinforce the handpole bracket. Installed the ATP steering system earlier.

Had to drill and tap 4 holes:


came out pretty good.. one screw hole was on a slight angle but it works:


put it all back together, looks great and is much lighter than my old turnplate. like the washer design, it uses the stock nuts, no parts should need replacing anytime soon:


not bad:

 

[Mdavies_02]

Looks good. You couldn't just drill the holes and put a nylock on the bottom? Trying to see how that steering works but a little lost.

Tapping was the only way?

 

[cattledog]

http://www.drmikesandy.com/X-H20/Yamaha SuperJet Service Manual.pdf

 

[gc4]

Thanks Cattledog, perfect.

Well you can buy alternate bolts and do it that way but the instructions say to tap four 5mm holes that the steering base screws into. you then put the turn plate on that and then screw the turn plate down using the stock turn plate bolts

 

[gc4]

Handlepole bracket reinforced. Started by taping closed the holes so no resin drips through:


Then flipped it over:


Layed down 2 layers of 1708 biax:


The next few days I'll slowly pull apart the carbs to rejet and install a primer kit and t screws for tuning.. and then a b-pipe

 

[gc4]

Removed the choke system and installed a primer system on the carbs.. Rejetted also with 135 main and 75 pilot.

Got one tamper plug out but it was quite a hassle so i'm going to go get a hammer pull tomorrow and see if that works. Any tips for an easier way to get these out would be great.

Also, I have some t handle tuning screws. When you screw them in is there a definite point where they reach the max they can be screwed in? sounds sort of stupid but im just trying to be safe rather than sorry.. this is my first time messing with any sort of carburetor. Thanks for the help.

 

[cattledog]

i drilled mine out the plug is brass and it worked great when you install t handle just go slow they will botttom out dont go nuts with the tightening of t handle go gentle and when it stops thats it then back up t handle to spec

 

[gc4]

Thanks cattledog

So the two center bolts for the b pipe manifold are too long. Anyone have any tips to shorten these? I don't have any nuts to put on the bolts so I can rethread the end of the bolt after I cut it. Is it difficult to file these bolts to get the threading back?

 

[Matt_E]

Go to the store and get an M8 nut.

 

[gc4]

Alright, I thought I read somewhere that it was an unusual threading.. I need to keep better track of threads I've read

Thanks though