Stock Octane ( Polaris 777 ) don't typically react well to high compression. They tend to ping due to excessive detonation. Randy from Watcon expressed this many a times back when he was in the Polaris game.
Hampshire, a sled cylinder will not just bolt and go. Alex above can weigh in on this. There are a lot of physical changes that need to be performed, like case work and sleeves. as well as the timing and power valves if equipped. They are not fed water thru the exhaust flange like the 777 cylinder jugs are. it must be plumbed into the lower cases.
As far as bolt and go mods.
-Have your cdi recurved, have your prop checked for damage and pitch and have it corrected if need be. The stock prop is actually a very good one that yield good results. you can dry out your bpipe slightly more and run a flow control valve before the waterbox inlet at the stinger of your chamber. Again aftermarket carbs will really wake it up down low as the stock oem style that it came with are subpar. even with the jetting kits and so forth... you'd be better of having a set built to spec by a carb guru if your not savvy on those things. I sent my carbs to Art at jetworks/blackjack performance and my octane was a whole different animal.. ( not kidding, the response was night and day)..but, keep in mind your engine must be solid as a carb alone wont benefit a worn engine.
-I would not go finding after market hardened domes and just slapping them on. You can find a set of Polaris Domestic 700/1050/1200 domes used, such as ebay... then have them lightly shaved down to spec, Bumping compression ever so slightly. But you will want to run higher test fuel thru the engine. Watcon can still do this I believe. as well as recurve your stock CDI. contact John zigler if your interested.
-The total loss setups and dry pipes are unicorns now. very few and far between left for us to see. but when you do!!!! you know it.
Run that octane Run it hot and run the p*ss out of it! I do, I am an Octard for Life!
