Girdled Head help

[dpenta13]

can anyone tell me the tapni would need for the pitch of the threads in the case.

And how many washers 2 max? Because its still a goof ways off.

I will try to get the threads cleaned out

 

[Yami-Rider]

I just installed a Ada girdled kit today, case thread were full of factory lock-tite. It was mentioned 2 times before, but be sure the long threaded end is in the case. They look like you have the long threaded end threw the head in the photo, maybe its a illusion.

 

[dpenta13]

no i tried it both ways must have taken the pic when i had it in that way.

Thanks for the info i will try to get them cleaned out with a tap.

 

[oside-tanner]

Heres my setup, I ran into the same problem with the thrust head, I'm running my setup with no base gasket which added to this problem. I ended up having to grind the hex corners slightly where they threaded in to the cases, use 3 washers and 1 lock washer per girdle bolt. I also had problems with the Allan head bolts that thrust supplied. The bolts they sent were bottoming out in the cylinder and not allowing me to properly torque down the head. I'm happy with everything now but it would have been nice for thrust to pay a little extra attention to detail.

 

[Harbor]

Sorry for the late response, party went longer than expected........
1. My hex bolts are 7 1/2 in long
2. They thread into the case 17 revolutions (easy depth comparison)
3. The long threaded end is in the case as previously stated
4. The thrust head is 1inch thick @ the girdle nut recessed hole
5. The ADA head is 1 1/4 thick @ the girdle nut (no recess
6. The 701 61x cylinder is roughly 4 5/8 inch tall
7. Hex bolts are 10x1.25 diameter and thread pitch
8. From these measurements the hex bolts are 3/8 inch to long and need 3/8 inch more of threaded area on top....................

I have a taller stroker cylinder, the deck is measuring roughly 5 inches with base gasket above the case and the Thrust head fits normally with one flat washer. With the head off I have 1 32/64th of hex bolt protruding above the cylinder and it's bolts down normally. Thrust makes quality parts IMO and the extra hex length is good in a way because it allows it to fit more set ups with different cylinder heights, you can add washers to take up some slack but if the hex bolts to short your done, can't make it longer

Make sure your case holes are clear like previously stated, and add washers as mentioned or have your hex bolts shortened and threaded more on the head side by 3/8 inch roughly

Hope this helps

 

[Harbor]

 

[dpenta13]

Thank you very much for the info Harbor. Very Very Helpfull.

I will use the info and take some measurements. Going to order one more hex rod because i ground both ends down on one of mine to test fit.
Try cleaning threads first then probably have them shortened if they are still too long

 

[Yami-Rider]

I think it is best to put a little silicone around the stud before you install it into the case, this keeps water from sitting in that void.

 

[dpenta13]

Ok good to know
thank yiu

 

[Harbor]

Btw I have 32/64th of the threaded hex bolt protruding thru the head so you have some reference for a one washer set up

 

[dpenta13]

Awsome i will take a look tonight or tomorow night.

I have to see if i have the right tap to clean the threas out

 

[Harbor]

I'd be interested to know How many turns your studs screw into your case? If it's 17 turns in then the holes are probably clear...........
If it's a lot less you may want to use a small pic to go down in the hole and break up the silicone some if any is in there and pull out what you can before running the tap in.
Some of the transmission I work on us RTV silicone to seal the trans pan, the silicone often gets into the holes and prevents the pan bolt from seating to the proper depth, if I don't pic the silicone out first before tapping or installing the bolt it pulls the threads out of the case because it hydrolocks on the materiel in the bottom of the hole. If you put the pic in the hole hopefully you feel a solid surface at the bottom, if it's soft and spongy try and pic it out first.
If it's dried thread lock and just dirty threads you'll prolly need compressed air to blow out the holes after using the tap.

 

[dpenta13]

I don't think I got that many turns on it.
Full Turns right?

I will get them cleaned out with a pic and blow them out, need to get a 10x1.25 Tap
I don't have that size.

 

[dpenta13]

I only got 10 full turns on it.
The bottom seems clear it must be binding up on the threads. I will run a tap through them and blow them out tomorow

 

[Harbor]

Yep full 360 degree revolutions, I just drew a line half way across stud tip with a marker for reference and counted how many times it went around.

 

[Harbor]

Just for kicks I wanted to see how much 10 revolutions of thread was and it turns out it's the same amount of threads that's on the head side of the hex stud, "the short threaded end" so your on the right track

A tap socket may help you I think harbor freight has them or here a an ebay link so you can see them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Tools...1095279273&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

 

[dpenta13]

Yeah i did the same.
I will let u knwo how i make out when i get a tap

 

[dpenta13]

Thanks for the info Harbor

 

[dpenta13]

Ran a 10x1.25 tap through the thereads and cleaned them out.
Studs went right in with no issuses, Ended up using two washers per stud.

Thanks everyone for the help. Im going to make sure i run a tap through all the threads before i start assembly in the future.

 

[Harbor]

Oside-tanner might want to double check his now for proper stud depth