GP1200 fuel starvation/lean condition?

Looking for some direction here to get my GP1200 powered aluminum mini boat back in action. First a little history on it so we're up to speed, apologies in advance for the long winded post:
Purchased donor gp1200 last year dirt cheap, built mini boat, rebuilt the 3 carbs and ran the heck out of it until I overheated it sucking up sand and toasted top end. It would run WOT all day long, came off idle clean, it was on point prior to the overheating. Realized it was an SBT rebuild engine during tear down (sleeves were garbage, ports not lining up etc) so I had it re-sleeved. Rebuilt engine with new parts, ran back through carbs (not new kits, just made sure it was all blown out as it sat for a few months) and got it back together a couple weeks ago.
So on the maiden voyage, fired up, idles well, comes off idle well. I putted around and warmed it up, shut it off let it cool, heat cycled a couple times. I took off after the 3rd head cycle or so and after 1-2 minute of half throttle the engine shut down like it was starving for fuel. Plugs confirm, dry and white'ish. Fired right back up and idled to the dock, check plugs again and they look good (dark brownish) after the idle in.
I had planned to run a/m flame arrestors and switch up jetting a bit to follow the "oside bill" carb recipe so I decide now is a good time to do that. I pull carbs, recheck everything and jet according to his recommendation which is basically lowering pop-off a bit, running all 100 pilots instead of staggered stock jetting (95/97/100) and leaving the 135 mains. I also ran dual fuel feeds and removed the internal return restriction in favor of a 105 main jet in the return line, more tips from the couch forums from "oside bill". After some research I was expecting to find bad/creased check valves or fuel pump diaphragms worn out. All fuel lines are new, lines in tank have been pressure tested for leaks.
Retested this morning and I'm having the exact same issue, fuel starvation after running half throttle for short rip. Plugs aren't as white, but still showing lean.
So I am either not flowing enough fuel at half to WOT, or running too lean, either of which is causing the lean seize/shut down. I assumed it would have to be exceptionally lean to lean seize, but I may be wrong, maybe just slightly lean is enough to shut it down. I do not want do it again, I realize how bad it is on the engine.
So my theory is with this fresh top end and ports all aligned and cleaned up, perhaps I am just flowing that much better than I need more fuel from last year. I somewhat expected last year to have to change jetting a bit due to the increased engine load of the heavier hull compared to the GP1200 hull, but it was perfect. Could it be now that my engine is up to snuff, it's exposing the lean condition on top end?
I've ordered enough parts to rebuild fuel pump sides with all new diaphragms, check valves, and gaskets and I also picked up some 140 mains. That will be my next step. Hard to imagine needing rebuild on that side as they typically work for YEARS and all the internals are currently less than a year old, and of course all genuine Mikuni. Any advice is appreciated.
 
First, did you do an Air Leak-down Test to ensure the "new" Engine is Air tight?

Second, did you Fine Tune the Carburetors by adjusting all 6 Low and High Speed Adjusters?

Third, do you have a proper Tachometer, an essential Tool for Fine Tuning?

Even though you're breaking in the Engine, still can Fine Tune the Low Speed Screws on the Submerged Trailer .

Did you clean and remove ALL the Sand from the Exhaust System? Have to disassemble the Double-Walled Pipe to get all Sand out; it's probably packed in there good.
Leakdown test was performed, 10psi with no pressure loss after 15 minutes.
There has been no fine tuning done.
Exhaust system was completely disassemble, cleaned and rebuilt with all new internal gaskets and seals.
I do have a tachometer but I'm not looking at it yet as I'm not trying to tune yet.
Looking at mikuni flow chart I'm well into the main jet circuit at half throttle, the more I think about it the more I'm "leaning" toward that being the culprit.
 

Jcary85

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Check the check valve in the fuel tank. Maybe it’s not letting air in. What does it actually do when it dies? Does it slowly drop rpms then die?
 
Check valve is functioning properly.
Rpms drop along with loss of power, then shuts off. All happens in the span of 2-3 seconds. Fuel filters still have fuel in them, doesn't really look like it's running out of fuel but it kind of feels that way. It's not an instant shut down at high rpm like hitting the kill switch.
 
Just some cheap paper core auto store junk, probably not ideal, but it worked fine last year. First run was using the same filter I ran last year, second run I replaced with new, just to make sure it wasn't the issue.
I thought about bypassing them and just running the internal carb filters but like I said, worked fine last year so I'm thinking it's something else.
 
Bump.
Still trying to get this thing to run correctly. I've tried extra cooling, confirmed piston/cylinder clearance and dome squish, tried known good carbs from a well running gp1200, tried a different fuel pickup and tried a large range of jetting, compression test and did another leak-down test, engine appears to be healthy but still same results. Thought I had it finally sorted yesterday by adding extra cooling but still managed to seize up after about 30 seconds at half throttle. Not sure what else I could possibly check.
I bought a big 4 stroke engine to put in it, and I'll probably end up going that route but I just can't stand the thought of getting defeated by an old two stroke.
Anyone got any other ideas?
Can anyone recommend a shop that knows this engine well? As much as it pains me to think about paying someone else to work on my stuff, I am tempted to take it to someone as I feel I have tried absolutely everything I know to try at this point.
 

WFO Speedracer

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Ditch that Automotive filter autos have real fuel pumps that make real fuel pressure, how are the fuel lines run, best setup would be three separate pickups, no petcock and three separate OEM Yamaha filters with the black end cap like came stock on the GP 1200, they are the only filters I would run.
 
PWC Two Strokes have been known to humble plenty of People. You're definitely not the first.

Was the Cylinder Head disassembled, cleaned and installed with New Gaskets?

Was the Woodruff Key inspected? Stator Plate secure in it's proper Timing Location? Crankshaft in-phase 120 degrees?

Each Ignition Coil going to the correct Cylinder? Each of the 3 Stator Pulser Coils mounted in its correct Position?

How about posting some Photos of all the smoked Pistons for analysis?

P.S. You never mentioned the original Compression Readings for the SBT Engine that used to run good. SBT purposefully machines the Cylinder Heads to reduce Compression so they last longer, just past the Warranty :D. Did you use the same Cylinder Head? What was the new rebuilt Engine Compression? Might have required higher Octane Fuel...
Old SBT engine was 130psi, I'm closer to 150psi now with a new ada head. Unfortunately I think I trashed the old head.
I haven't gotten back into the electronics but everything was definitely installed just as it came apart. Maybe I need to investigate that. Doesn't seem like it's out of time but I could be wrong.
Not sure about the crankshaft phase part, it was a new sbt crank.
I'll see what I have for pics. I only toasted 1 piston, I was able to clean the others up, the middle cylinder is the one that really seized.
 
Ditch that Automotive filter autos have real fuel pumps that make real fuel pressure, how are the fuel lines run, best setup would be three separate pickups, no petcock and three separate OEM Yamaha filters with the black end cap like came stock on the GP 1200, they are the only filters I would run.
Since then that filter has been replaced with a better one, not factory but not the paper filter.
Fuel lines are setup like factory now minus the petcock, single feed. I didn't think about the 3 individual feeds, just figured it SHOULD work stock.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Old SBT engine was 130psi, I'm closer to 150psi now with a new ada head. Unfortunately I think I trashed the old head.
I haven't gotten back into the electronics but everything was definitely installed just as it came apart. Maybe I need to investigate that. Doesn't seem like it's out of time but I could be wrong.
Not sure about the crankshaft phase part, it was a new sbt crank.
I'll see what I have for pics. I only toasted 1 piston, I was able to clean the others up, the middle cylinder is the one that really seized.
You probably should get some temp reading off of the cylinder when running with an infrared thermometer so you get a clue what is happening here
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Since then that filter has been replaced with a better one, not factory but not the paper filter.
Fuel lines are setup like factory now minus the petcock, single feed. I didn't think about the 3 individual feeds, just figured it SHOULD work stock.
Basically it should except for one thing you are not taking into account, LOAD, that boat is loading the pump and engine a lot more than it would with any ski that had that engine in it, yes I know they used the 1200's in Yamaha boats but most of those were dual engine. I have quite a bit of experience in building weird one off projects like this boat.

I built a 1963 Montgomery Ward boat with a Seadoo 720 engine and pump and it had similar issues. I am also building a bass boat with a Yamaha 1200 engine but I am not far enough along to get to the tuning stage. I helped do a lot of work on Crammit 442'S bass boat with the Yamaha 760 engine also.
 
You probably should get some temp reading off of the cylinder when running with an infrared thermometer so you get a clue what is happening here
I have, forgot to mention that. All cylinders around 125-130 degrees.
It ran best with 100 pilot/145 main, stock is 135 main. I have 150 mains in there now because the plugs looked too white still. Now it runs like it's fat but plugs are still way too light looking.
I agree on the load. I was concerned about that originally but it just ran so well with the last engine in stock configuration. I haven't weight the boat yet but the hull is very comparable to the stock waverunner hull. I will try to get an actual weight soon.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I have, forgot to mention that. All cylinders around 125-130 degrees.
It ran best with 100 pilot/145 main, stock is 135 main. I have 150 mains in there now because the plugs looked too white still. Now it runs like it's fat but plugs are still way too light looking.
I agree on the load. I was concerned about that originally but it just ran so well with the last engine in stock configuration. I haven't weight the boat yet but the hull is very comparable to the stock waverunner hull. I will try to get an actual weight soon.
Not so much the weight of the boat but the wetted surface area that you have to get on plane that concerns me.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
With Stock 130 psi, Yamaha recommends 87 Octane.

For 135-145 psi, Group K requires 93 Octane Fuel and 40:1 Pre-Mix. *105 Octane for sustained high RPM use*

What Octane and Pre-Mix was in the Fuel Tank for the Rebuilt Engine with 150 psi?

I have the Group K YAM 1200 Sleeper with Flame Arrestors:

Low Speed Screws: 3/4+ Turns ALL,

High Speed Screws MAG 3/4+, CENTER 1-1/4+, PTO 1/2+
So you are thinking DETO, with that much pump load it is defiantly a possibility, those engines already had staggered timing and staggered compression to stay together at stock compression
 
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