Hackster Blaster

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So she's Rockered and flat decked. I chopped 3 inches off the rear. Now I'm looking for some ideas on how to seal it up. I've seen other people just lay cardboard inside and lay on Aton of chopped mat and polyester resin to have a quick thick layup. Or should I cut an access hole through the top and glass with some 14oz biax from the inside? How many layers? Any ideas from anyone would be appreciated.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
View attachment 324469
So she's Rockered and flat decked. I chopped 3 inches off the rear. Now I'm looking for some ideas on how to seal it up. I've seen other people just lay cardboard inside and lay on Aton of chopped mat and polyester resin to have a quick thick layup. Or should I cut an access hole through the top and glass with some 14oz biax from the inside? How many layers? Any ideas from anyone would be appreciated.

I do these jobs by putting in pink foam, then covering that's with drywall mud and shape. Then I seal the mud with epoxy and wax it with mold release and pva. Then I layup the new glass. Then I remove ignore from the inside.

If you don't want to cut an access hole,
You can still do this just don't overlap the hull. Layup a panel, then remove the panel, then remove the foam, then glass this new panel into the hull.

Regardless of how you do it, you shouldn't be using chop. Chop mat is not compatible with epoxy. You could use it to make the panel I mentioned but the final repair needs to be done with epoxy and cloth or biax.
 
Yea I've only used biax and cloth on this ski so far. Just saw some others using chopped so that's why I was wondering. Probably going to layup a panel but when I put the panel on the ski would I just glass and wrap it around all the edges of the ski since I wouldn't have an access hole
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
I like 1208. Do a test layup on some visqueen or drop plastic.

You can do several different panels or you can do one panel stepped.

I'd say probably about 4-5 layers of 1208 but I'm no expert on knowing how many layers to do.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Yea I've only used biax and cloth on this ski so far. Just saw some others using chopped so that's why I was wondering. Probably going to layup a panel but when I put the panel on the ski would I just glass and wrap it around all the edges of the ski since I wouldn't have an access hole

Make the base for your layup out of a few layers of pink foam. Take the time to sand and shape the foam nicely so it fits real clean without any added fillers. This will give you a good base to layup over that is water rssistant and will give some floatation. If you do a good job you can layup directly over the foam, but you can cover any voids with pieces of packing / masking / painters tape so your resin and cloth has a flat surface to layup on.
 
Location
Pa
Why not just pull that deck patch you already layed in, clean up the upper seat support area where it's just cut and walled off and then you can really get into it using vumads method and reinforce from behind too. You might want to make a front foot hold anyway there as well as make it a bit more shapely. You can layup a flat deck patch on some glass too so you eliminate that sag
 
Thought about it but it would be a pain to reach from that area and glass the inside I would rather just cut the rear upper deck and have it easier to be seen and reached. I cut out the foam today that I am going to glass over and began shaping it in.
 

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
Is that a custom rear rocker setup tzane? You have anymore pictures of the glassing?

Yes it is a custom rear chop and front rocker. I do have more pictures but they are on my phone. Ill update with some pics.

Ill tell ya what, you have a massive hole to fill! Id stretch duct tape from top to bottom on the outside of the rear. Epoxy will not stick to either side of duct tape. Once its all covered, go in from the inside, and fill all the edges with some thickened epoxy to reduce the transition angle. While the thickened epoxy is still tacky lay a few layers of light weight (5-7 oz) glass, coving the whole area and overlapping the hull like an inch or so. Now you can pull the tap off the outside and work on the cosmetic side, getting all your edges how you would like and what not. Once your happy with it, then id reinforce with 5 lays or so of 12 oz biax overlapping the hull by a min of 3 inches on the inside. You may have to reduce the transition angle even further to get the heavy cloth to lay down nice.
 

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
I wish I had current pics, it's further along now than in the pics but I lost some pics. The blaster is in Florida and I'm in Africa currently. Anyways, I did something a bit different than you. It's kinda an expert with just chopping the corners...

All taped up
KIMG0033.jpg KIMG0040.jpg


First piece of glass is the exact size, next layer overlaps hull. I actually used chop matt for this. It sands nice and smooth on the outside of the hull.KIMG0044.jpg

Tape pulled away after cure reveals a good start to overall shape
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Exterior final shape coming together
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KIMG0102.jpg
 

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
Pic of the nose, rocker with bondrail.




To bad all the foam and wood filler used to shape this got destroyed by the Florida humidity. I was just about ready to lay down some glass on the outside and pull all the foam/filler out from the inside and then reenforce finish. KIMG0087.jpg

Probably 10 hours down the drain, I had to tear it all out.. learned alot and it will be easier the next time.

If you have any questions, please ask. I'm no expert but I've learned alot, the hard way... ofcourse.
 
Looks very good. I went with the carterb rocker nose to keep it more simple for me but I like how yours utilizes the stock bond rail. I may do a slight rockered angle cut on the rear similar to yours. I probably will start with chop strand as you did to build up some thickness and start laying cloth then biax after that. Seems like the tape method works very well to back up against. I may redo the deck of mine with that method.
 
Going to start prepping the inside of the hull. @tzane do you think I should remove those rear pump mounts and all the 5200? or would I be fine glassing over and around the factory 5200 on the inside?
 

Tyler Zane

Open Your Eyes
Any sealant from the factory or otherwise needs to be removed if it's in your way. And the rear pump bolts are going to be used right? I see they are close to the edge. I would leave them be. Install the pump bolts with some grease on the threads and run them all the way in. They will protrude threw the top but that will be fine. Just glass around them and once your done with everything pull the bolts out. They will come right out if they are greased.
 
Yes I am using rear pump bolts. After glassing over the new ones and pulling the bolt out do you recommend adding sealant over that?
 
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