Has anyone tried 3d printing a hull?

I’m currently working on my own plug, using tried and true hand methods as seen on this wonderful forum. It’s work.

I keep thinking, I could probably build tooling or a system to make test hulls faster.

I was drinking with the boys tonight and shared my thoughts. I’m convinced after seeing designs and taking measurements I’ll want to try a bunch of different design options. I have no issue throwing away test hulls. I have a bunch of different thoughts on the underside and rear deck. Plus the width where the decks meet, that flare is interesting.

One friend said injection moldings, another friend said cnc cut the hull. An acquaintance said his ski was built on a cnc’d plug.

I was thinking, 3d print maybe?
I don’t know dick about material strength but I saw they 3d print boats.

I wonder if anyone has done it. If you were printing hulls you could test designs much faster.

There’s a college near by that prints boat, I might call them
 
Location
dfw
What are you trying to achieve with your design? Have you spent time riding many available hulls? What do you like in a particular hull. The sport has become so specialized now. Flip boats can do flips but little else. Race boats have become big heavy torpedos that can turn at high speeds but too big for playing around. I still like riding a 750sx, I may be the only one left! For quick prototyping I would try foam. Build a simple cnc fixture and find a foam that machines well. Then just finish the surface and you have a plug. If you want to do on water development use plywood. Structurally, it is very good material for a boat, it just requires careful maintenance to keep it from rotting.
 
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What are you trying to achieve with your design? Have you spent time riding many available hulls? What do you like in a particular hull. The sport has become so specialized now. Flip boats can do flips but little else. Race boats have become big heavy torpedos that can turn at high speeds but too big for playing around. I still like riding a 750sx, I may be the only one left! For quick prototyping I would try foam. Build a simple cnc fixture and find a foam that machines well. Then just finish the surface and you have a plug. If you want to do on water development use plywood. Structurally, it is very good material for a boat, it just requires careful maintenance to keep it from rotting.
I’ve ridden a wdk, krash 50, I forget the hull name but it’s a company near me in NH, and a bob gen 1.

I want to try my own stuff because of my height, I didn’t feel like I was part of the ski’s because they felt so small. My friends took some videos and I can’t seem to lock my legs or get my legs straight when trying to flip.

My goal is to flip and stunt. I’m 6’6” and I think my lanky frame is not able to extend enough. I’m a juvenile and I like to do things like flip around or wheelies.

My buddy had some short short poles and I still couldnt get that good extension that all you friends have when you flip
 
Photos please !
I only have cad plans I’m working on. I have a js550 to cut up but I’m not there yet. I’ve been a laborer on two lay up boat projects since I decided to try this. I plan on physically using the hand methods as seen on other build posts

I’m currently still playing on the computer, I’m trying to find an fx ski from the 90s to measure. Someone told me a js550 was the same hull with a smaller motor. Before I cut this hull up I want to make sure the pole mounting points are identical because I’ve been told the fx ski was the best at the time and I have that gen hull?

I’m currently terrified of “rocking” the nose if that’s the proper terminology? I think you can get away with more cutting up the rear deck? I’ll find out that’s for sure. I think I have a huge ride plate education session in my future. The ass end of the ski, I’m not thinking about enough, that rocking poop in the front has me concerned / preoccupied
 
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Please just spare the superjets for the sake of keeping them in existence. So many went to the graveyard by people cutting them up then giving up half way through.

If not for the sake of it being an endangered species, for the fact that its the hull that started modern freestyle as we know it.
I have spared the superjets. It’s actually the first thing I learned about this community lol. Do not cut up a superjet, I must have read that on every “I’m gonna try this” post. I come from Harley’s and get rip poop when someone molests a clean canvas.
 

E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
FX1 is an unique ski. But it is definitely not "best." Most people hate it.

Best all around hull bottom is likely the 1996 through 2007 Round Nose Super Jet.

Take your measurements off of that ski. Or take a mold off the bottom of that ski.

I have an FX1 which I will keep but have been looking to buy an unmolested 1996 through 2007 Super Jet.

The hull flattens on its own out of a turn.

In comparison, it takes body english to flatten the FX1 out of a turn.

The hull, steering and pump just work in unison on the 1996-2007 Super Jet to make it a more predictable and capable ski.

Other more knowledgeable and experienced riders here can help direct you to a good hull design for your desired style of riding.

But you definitely won't be flat water flipping an FX1 and probably wouldn't want to if you could.

P.S. Basic rule of design for snow skis, windsurfers and jet skis is that narrow goes fast straight. While wider and more rounded turn tighter and are more loose. Narrow, like the FX1 is old school race. New school design in wider and thus more playful and is less race oriented.
 
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Location
dfw
If you just want to flip, life is easy. Get one of the popular flatwater hulls with a big engine and pump. Thats all there is to it other than a little practice. You will be past your prime by the time you become an expert composite crafter. This is one industry where kids are the consumers and old guys the providers.
 
If you just want to flip, life is easy. Get one of the popular flatwater hulls with a big engine and pump. Thats all there is to it other than a little practice. You will be past your prime by the time you become an expert composite crafter. This is one industry where kids are the consumers and old guys the providers.
Truthfully I wanted to go buy a xscream 1400cc as soon as I decide that I’d like to do this sport / hobby. I was deterred because of my previous last two personal projects and future wedding. Previously during covid I got way too horny on a new racecar and boat project. Idle hands are the devil’s workshop, found out the hardest way. I ended up wasting my time and money because once I had my poop together, my interest was completely gone. Probably because I didn’t respect the process or systems required to succeed therefore my plans were trash. I ended up selling both with parts still NIB. Literally almost sold the car project for the same price as the motor and super charger kit that I sold with it. I completely just screwed the pooch.

I feel like I need to do this type of project first as it will force me to learn how every individual system on a ski works together. I think I need more skin in the game and respect for the ski.

Once I’m not saving for a wedding and have some better understanding I would like to get a big motor flat ski. I think if I did that now it would be literally insulting to the inanimate ski.
 
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E350

Site Supporter
Location
Sacramento Delta
From what I have observed, there are two types of people on this forum. Both are good people but are different. These are:

1. Wrenchers
2. Riders

The difference is priorities. Riders will do things to improve the handling or power of their ski. Like buying a pipe or sponsons. But it may take them months to install them, because they don't want the ski's downtime to prevent their riding. (Heck, even Riders need to learn to wrench because things do eventually wear out and break on these vintage skis.)

But true Wrenchers will spend most of their time working on, or changing their skis which either lessens or, in some case, entirely eliminates their ride time.

You may be the next ski hull designer and future generations will thank you for the ride time you sacrificed designing and producing your ski. Or you may end up like some people who work for years on their ski only to eventually lose interest or time or money and we, ultimately, see them selling their uncompleted ski for parts or as a project.

So, have a cup of coffee and meditate on what type you want to be.

And, if you are a Rider, as @Quinc says, "Buy a Super Jet."
 
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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I can 100 % verify that if you are a wrencher like me you will only get riding time 5 to ten minutes at a time and it's always on someone elses ski.
 
I don’t think you are too tall for current flip skis, you just need tray time. Which brings me to my next point, buy a jetski and ride it.

There will be no shortage of wrenching to be done so you won’t get bored. And this will be the best way to get aquatinted with jetski systems.

The path you are discussing will lead to no riding, a big mess, and most likely a sub par hull design even if you do succeed based on your lack of knowledge/experience.

Don’t reinvent the wheel when you don’t know how it works.
 
I ride at least 5 hours a week. All year long. Either a 701 waveblaster. Or a 1100 xfr. In the sac river. Used to ride surf quite a bit also.

I do all my wrenching and machine work. I've bored my own cylinders. Rebuilt starters. Pressed apart, rebuilt, and trued my own cranks. Lightened my own flywheels. I don't pay for any type of work unless it's a time issue. Have I wasted some money? Hell yeh. Made 100x more tho.

My secret? Don't have kids!! Also, have a chill job that doesn't stress you out and allows you time to enjoy your hobbies instead of making you dread them.
 
From what I have observed, there are two types of people on this forum. Both are good people but are different. These are:

1. Wrenchers
2. Riders

The difference is priorities. Riders will do things to improve the handling or power of their ski. Like buying a pipe or sponsons. But it may take them months to install them, because they don't want the ski's downtime to prevent their riding. (Heck, even riders need to learn to wrench because things do eventually wear out and break on these vintage skis.)

But true Wrenchers will spend most of their time working on, or changing their skis which either lessens or, in some case, entirely eliminates their ride time.

You may be the next ski hull designer and future generations will thank you for the ride time you sacrificed designing and producing your ski. Or you may end up like some people who work for years on their ski only to eventually lose interest or time or money and we, ultimately, see them selling their uncompleted ski for parts or as a project.

So, have a cup of coffee and meditate on what type you want to be.

And, if you are a Rider, as @Quinc says, "Buy a Super Jet."

Truer words have never been spoken. I was really into the idea of making a hull at one time. I ruined a perfectly good 550SX to make a pile of parts that who knows if they ever went anywhere. When I moved across the county I vowed to leave that life behind and always have a rig for whatever hobby I'm into in a "ready-2-ride" state if possible. I can have other rigs if I wanna tinker but I find that I usually buy, do the tinkering, sell within a year and get back to the "riding".

Horses for courses but if you're in the business of making a new hull, we could always use a medium quality nearly stock length superjet hull bottom side replica with integrated tubbies and a wider more spacious tray, under 100lbs for around $4K OTD. Think Evolution vs. Revolution and you got the idea.
 
Location
Wisconsin
Found this much, username is Dalton.

Years ago when this project was implemented, this guy showed up to the Dells Freeride with his 3d printed hull and lets just say it was in a rough state of affairs. I find it hard to believe that gluing to together a bunch of 3d printed sections is in any way a good method of prototyping a plug. In my opinion, the level of equipment required to produce a decent result in this method is way beyond a $150 Crealty ender 3.
 
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