Help! Blaster won't start

[Nate_D]

EDIT: I guess you were talking about the switch not the solenoid so you are completely correct. My mistake. Still good info below though.

That's not completely true. A solenoid should be ohm'ed to verify it allows the full 12-volts to travel through. You do this by connecting the start/stop leads to 12v so the solenoid engages, then ohm the 2 terminals.

Heres a video. Watch from 1:00-2:20

Good advice. This happened to me before. Relay sounded good (clicked), but didn't allow the full current to pass through. Before ripping into it, verify the basics.

All main cables are tight and free of corrosion at all terminals (6 spots they connect in total)
Known good battery is connected

Either of those or a starter relay could cause these symptoms. If you do have to replace the starter, I find it easier to pull the motor and work on it from the bench. Each person has their preference though.

 

[Dylancudd4]

For sure the bench, the starter is a bitch to replace in the hull


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[ajmps1]

When you were inquiring about my rok for sale 3 months ago, you said you had pump issues. I'd say if you haven't figured that out yet, you might want to bite the bullet and just find a mechanic to do the work for you before your tail leads you to the winter.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Here is a second thought, check your pump and make sure the impeller is not impacting the wear ring. Just take a flashlight and aim it inside where the driveshaft goes into the pump, then look into the pump from the back of the ski. You want to see if there is light coming from around all blades on the impeller, if not, the wear ring has finally swollen to a point where your impeller is locked up, this too will make your ski do the solenoid click. The starter can not roll over if the drive line is seized up as it is a direct drive straight from the crank. I just bored out a Wave Blaster pump for that very reason 2 months ago. The ski ran but rolled over like it was really laboring, as if it were running too high of compression for the starter to get past. It ran like that for years then finally this Spring the pump had enough and locked the impeller up tight. Same exact sound when touching the start button. If you try to turn the engine over by hand at the drive couplers and it doesn't budge...check the impeller first, it might just save you from an unneeded engine tear down.

 

[prettyricky218]

I'm sure the pump isn't seized. It was spinning fast when turning over and riding good before it stopped starting. When I get to the lake tomorrow after I get it running I am going to order a new impeller, pump seal, shaft holder tool, and will check the wear ring.

How difficult is it to pull the motor? If I pull the motor would I still need to take the manifold off? I don't really want to risk stripping the manifold out as I was told that can happen pretty easily.
Is pulling the motor just a few motor mounts, fuel lines, and does it simply slide apart at the coupler? Someone on facebook said a starter is a 15 min job and I'm starting to wonder if I can get this done in an evening. I'm planning on working on it Thursday night as Friday is going to be 90 and I desperately want this thing running by Friday noon.
Any info on engine pulling and stuff is greatly appreciated as I've never done it. Just some tips, tricks, and things to look out for.
Thanks!

 

[Vumad]

I'm sure the pump isn't seized. It was spinning fast when turning over and riding good before it stopped starting. When I get to the lake tomorrow after I get it running I am going to order a new impeller, pump seal, shaft holder tool, and will check the wear ring.

How difficult is it to pull the motor? If I pull the motor would I still need to take the manifold off? I don't really want to risk stripping the manifold out as I was told that can happen pretty easily.
Is pulling the motor just a few motor mounts, fuel lines, and does it simply slide apart at the coupler? Someone on facebook said a starter is a 15 min job and I'm starting to wonder if I can get this done in an evening. I'm planning on working on it Thursday night as Friday is going to be 90 and I desperately want this thing running by Friday noon.
Any info on engine pulling and stuff is greatly appreciated as I've never done it. Just some tips, tricks, and things to look out for.
Thanks!

Your pump isn't seized because you already checked it back in post 2 when you checked the motor.

You do not need to remove the manifold to replace the starter. I replaced my starter with the motor in the boat, removing only the chamber and fuel tank, but it was a mofo. I probably could have just pulled the motor in the same amount of time, and then I would have been able to degrease my hull.

To remove your motor, you need to remove the exhaust chamber, unbolt the 4 bolts holding the bed plate to the mounts (keep track of any shims in between). This is what it takes to get the motor loose. You still need to get everything connected to it off. Unhook the battery, remove the throttle cable, remove the ebox (you can't remove the ebox from the motor), unplug the S/S, disconnect the fuel lines (be sure to turn the fuel selector off), disconnect the cooling lines and anything else I forgot to mention.

Its not really a big deal. Just keep track of things you take apart and put them back together. Take several pictures before you do the job, write down the steps, make a reassembly checklist or whatever you like to help you remember what you took apart and how it goes back together.

 

[Vumad]

I can't remember if you can take the motor straight out with the headpipe on. I think I may have removed my gas tank, turned the motor 90 degrees then took it out. I know I got it out with the headpipe on.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I realize now I missed that part about the pump spinning decently. I only brought it up as a second thought from recent experience. As for pulling the engine without removing the manifold, unless it is a 701 with 62t cases I vote for no. The 61x cases have a large intake manifold tract that is part of the case casting and stands off quite a bit but if it is running 62t cases then possibly. At least with the 62t cases you can remove the entire carb and intake assembly giving you that much more room to squeak the engine out. Pulling the engine is not a big deal but can be a bit tricky. If there are no connectors between the e-box and stator harness then the e-box will either need to be disconnected internally or removed with the engine. It is easier to take it all out at the same time. Removing the waterbox should be the only other part needed to be removed. The fuel tank sits far enough forward that it should be ok to remove but don't quote me on that for sure. Right now the biggest issue is going to be getting yourself to slow down and not rush. This job can be done in decent time but if you force rushing it you most likely will either break something, miss something on reinstall or forget something... all of which will ruin your day pretty quickly. Have fun with it and take your time.

 

[prettyricky218]

Thanks for all the advice and help.
New starter installed and it cranks over. Now I have to reassemble everything. I will say a mirror and taking the manifold and pipe out were key. Easy day though. I could do this in 2 beers next time now that I've done it once. I'm at like 6 this time, but stoked I can ride tomorrow on the nicest day of the year we've had so far.
Thanks!!

 

[Vumad]

I realize now I missed that part about the pump spinning decently. I only brought it up as a second thought from recent experience. As for pulling the engine without removing the manifold, unless it is a 701 with 62t cases I vote for no. The 61x cases have a large intake manifold tract that is part of the case casting and stands off quite a bit but if it is running 62t cases then possibly. At least with the 62t cases you can remove the entire carb and intake assembly giving you that much more room to squeak the engine out. Pulling the engine is not a big deal but can be a bit tricky. If there are no connectors between the e-box and stator harness then the e-box will either need to be disconnected internally or removed with the engine. It is easier to take it all out at the same time. Removing the waterbox should be the only other part needed to be removed. The fuel tank sits far enough forward that it should be ok to remove but don't quote me on that for sure. Right now the biggest issue is going to be getting yourself to slow down and not rush. This job can be done in decent time but if you force rushing it you most likely will either break something, miss something on reinstall or forget something... all of which will ruin your day pretty quickly. Have fun with it and take your time.

Thank you for this post. I replaced the starter on my Superjet so I had Superjet on the brain when I was talking about the chamber and the fuel tank, etc. that's my mistake.

I did pull my b1 out assembled but it had a stock pipe and 62t dual carb.