Help changing impeller

[prettyricky218]

I've done a few google searches, youtube searches and searches here on the X and haven't really come up with step by step instructions on how to change my impeller. Is it a difficult job?
My waveblaster is getting some cavitation and I can see my prop isn't perfect so I'd like some advice on
What prop I should get?
It's just a 701 single carb with B pipe and riva ride plate.
I have no real experience working on skis so I was hoping that this is something that I can even do and hopefully get some instruction on how to do it.

I did find one thread on here, but non of the pics worked for some reason and it appeared that a bunch of pics had been posted in the thread originally.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Vumad]

I've done a few google searches, youtube searches and searches here on the X and haven't really come up with step by step instructions on how to change my impeller. Is it a difficult job?
My waveblaster is getting some cavitation and I can see my prop isn't perfect so I'd like some advice on
What prop I should get?
It's just a 701 single carb with B pipe and riva ride plate.
I have no real experience working on skis so I was hoping that this is something that I can even do and hopefully get some instruction on how to do it.

I did find one thread on here, but non of the pics worked for some reason and it appeared that a bunch of pics had been posted in the thread originally.

Any help is appreciated.

You need a drive shaft spline holder to do the job. I got mine from @JetManiac. I also got a skat 10/18 (I think it was) used from him cheap. He suggested the prop and it was a good starter prop on my Superjet for the transition from stock to limited. It's on my stock b1 now and is working good. My Superjet is now a full limited race spec and I believe it has a 12/17? Solas concord. It's the prop from the Solas application chart on the Impros website.

Exactly which prop you choose will vary depending on your riding style and setup but the concord I have has been a great prop.

Remember the prop is a lefty thread, righty-loosey.

 

[Th3g3rm4n4t0r]

When it gets really hard...
I throw it in the 30 ton hydraulic press with aluminum blocks. On those aluminum blocks i put coarse valve grinding compound (almost liquid sand - heavier viscosity) to stop it from spinning.

I tig welded a heavy axle nut onto my impeller tool to make it stronger and i can get a bigger wrench for more torque

I also usually heat it up with the torches

It comes right off.. Find a shop to do it for you if its real hard.

I use the same method with midshafts, even tho they are hollow i use slightly less pressure and more compound to stop spinning... and get the coupler off.

 

[Half flip95]

these guys are making it seem more complicated than it really is.

to remove an impeller what you need to do is put the pump assembly on a bench.
slide the impeller tool over the drive shaft into the nose of the impeller.
slide a spline holder over the splines on the drive shaft.
put one wrench on the impeller tool and one wrench on the spline holder then start turning.
if it wont budge, heat and a bench vice definitely help.

inspect everything and see what you have before you start impeller shopping.
your problem may not be what you think it is.

to me it sounds like vumad isn't sure what impeller he has in either of his boats...

 

[JetManiac]

For a blaster with limited mods, Hooker 10/16 would be a good choice. Impeller tool included with prop and you will need a driveshaft spline holding tool. Impeller is reverse threaded.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Put pump on ground. Put prop tool on prop with wrench on it. Step on the wrench. Use a 4' cheater bar (I use a 1 1/2" piece of square tubing) on the spline tool. Breaks the prop loose every time with no effort. If you have someone else with you, makes it easier, let them stand on the pump and wrench.

 

[Th3g3rm4n4t0r]

these guys are making it seem more complicated than it really is.

to remove an impeller what you need to do is put the pump assembly on a bench.
slide the impeller tool over the drive shaft into the nose of the impeller.
slide a spline holder over the splines on the drive shaft.
put one wrench on the impeller tool and one wrench on the spline holder then start turning.
if it wont budge, heat and a bench vice definitely help.

inspect everything and see what you have before you start impeller shopping.
your problem may not be what you think it is.

to me it sounds like vumad isn't sure what impeller he has in either of his boats...

it is complicated when its been on there for years....

 

[fischer550]

I have a 5 foot steel pipe in my garage for the sole purpose of prop removal. Put your driveshaft with the spline holder tool in the vice, and use the pipe over your wrench. The prop will come right off

 

[prettyricky218]

so what do the numbers stand for? I'm assuming a 10/18 and a 10/16 that are mentioned are like 10 is the size and 16 is the pitch?
I have a B Pipe and different head. which would you recommend?
Also I noticed someone mentioned a 12/17 - would that fit? assuming the first number is the size / second number is pitch how can a 10/16 and a 12/17 work in the same ski?

 

[fischer550]

Both numbers are pitch, the size of the impeller is not stamped on it.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Most impellers now are variable pitch meaning the 10 is a leading edge of 10* and 18 is a trailing edge of 18*. The purpose is that the leading 10* will load the pump faster than a straight pitch such as a 15* impeller, and then you get the top end of whichever pitch you opt for. Lower trailing edge pitches will max out a lower speeds but help with bottom end...keeping in mind that there is a limit, too low of a trailing edge pitch and you will overspin boiling the water also known as cavitation.