- Location
- New Jersey
How many turns on the top and bottom water adjusting screws?
Help! How water cooling specs on factory b pipe Yamaha 701
- Thread starter Stavissimo
- Start date
Go on Google, search x-h2o b pipe settings. There's some lengthy threads on it and it depends on your setup and flow etc. Not a one size fit all application.
Blue
Judging your cheapness
- Location
- St Cloud Florida
Alot of opinions on this. But... Typical was 1/2 turn on top and 1/2 turn on bottom with middle closed. Factory pipe says 1 turn in any combination will keep pipe cool.
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Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
- Location
- New Jersey
Have top and middle closed, was way too hot, so opened the top screw a bunch
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
Try testing it on the top screw only. Opening it a bunch will hurt your holeshot performance. It takes some time but adjust it in about an 1/8 turn at a time until it starts to get too hot, then you will know where your limit is between properly cooled and optimal water calibration. Factory Pipe says your chamber (on an otherwise stock ski - no other mods outside of the pipe) should sizzle water for the first inch or two past the coupler, my pipe (on typical engine mods) ran far too hot on that designation, the head pipe was cooking the paint, the chamber was slightly melting lines enough to leave flat spots on them. It only took about an 1/8 of a turn out to stop that entirely and the ski runs well. For about a weekend I tried various settings from that spot, very slightly less water...still went way too hot, a full turn out from that spot and holeshoty power went down, where it is now is where it will stay. Each pipe is different though just as each engine configuration is different. For mine, only the top screw...top as in what we would consider top, not what Factory says so closest to the cylinder head...only that one on mine is open and I believe it is about 3/16 or there about. As I recall it from a water line routing diagram of theirs...to which I can't find for the life of me now, Factory goes in the opposite direction for top and bottom and I have no idea why, nobody looks at the crankcase or BASE...Factory Pipe...and says it's the top of the engine lol. I tried to find that drawing on their site but no success, it was quite comical though and caused a lot of confusion. I remember reading loads of threads from people asking which screw was which 
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
The whole concept behind the pipe is to be able to adjust your tuning to your specific riding and motor. A racer and freerider will prefer different adjustments given the same motor. Even otherwise stock skis setup for the same conditions might have slightly different adjustments given that stock motors have inconsistent port quality and etc. I've also found that the definition of "well tuned" varies wildly. There are lots of threads available about how to tune the pipe and starting points for different applications. I find that googling "X-h2o.com KEYWORD HERE" works better than the search function built into the forum.
- Location
- New Jersey
I wasn’t the person who did the water cooling lines, don’t think I need this many Ts and also running 3 pissers... 
- Location
- New Jersey
- Location
- New Jersey
pretty sure middle screw is seized.. so I opened the bottom almost a full turn and the top screw 1/4, pipe still gets hot but no sizzle, should I bother trying to free fix middle screw? I heard closing all the screws and putting a sprayer fitting to pipe is the best way to go lol
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
There is also a pretty good chance the holes for the screw tips are partially plugged with carbon. That might be why the extra water settings on the screws is having little effect.To know for sure you would need to remove the head pipe and clean up the inside the best you can. Those little set screws are terrible for breaking too, the Allen key socket will break up. Sometimes using a good amount of heat on the pipe portion around the screw will help to free it up. If you can get them out though you should be able to use a little pick to and clear out the little injection holes.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
My superjet has 3 pissers. Although your routing is different, your pisser setup looks the same. 2 of my pissers do so constantly. The 3rd is tied to the stinger and only pisses after the FCV opens. If you do not have a FCV, then your 3rd pisser would do so constantly. The 3rd pisser is to rob water flow from the stinger and reduce the water injection into the end of the pipe.
I cant say for sure because I am not looking at your boat, but it looks like you have parallel cooling. Commonly in dual cooling you see both lines from the pump enter into the motor and then one of the lines exiting the motor supplies water to the pipe. The result is that pre-heated water is used to cool the pipe. In parallel cooling the water in the pipe and the motor do not mix. The pipe gets a fresh supply of cool water and so does the motor.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Parallel cooling will keep your pipe cooler but your motor might run hotter since it is getting less of the fresh water. Parallel systems running two lines in and out often have restrictors on the out to control the speed at which the water flows through the motor ensuring that the cooling passages fill completely. Parallel systems also inject colder water into the exhaust stream which changes your screw settings as the BTU absorption potential of the cooler water is higher. Thus, your screws in a parallel system will be different than that in a dual system.
Neither is necessarily right or wrong. The same tuner who setup my Superjet and my SXR did the former in dual cooling and the latter in parallel cooling. In his experience setting up boats, it's just the way he believed the results were the best. I was more than satisfied with the performance of both machines.
- Location
- New Jersey
My B pipe manifold is tapped for dual cooling but i am still unfortunately running the stock pump, so i just put a Y fitting to feed both. the stock pisser is connected to the stinger pipe like you said, the other two are for front and rear cylinders
You only have 1 cooling line coming from the pump? What is connected to the bottom of your exhaust headpipe?
What Vumad was describing as parallel cooling is normally done with a second line from the pump to feed directly to the headpipe. If your splitting the 1 cooling line from the pump into the engine and the headpipe, I would think you could overheat your engine from a lack of waterflow through the engine.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Generally the total sizes of your outs should usually be less than or equal to your ins. If you have a single 3/8 from the pump, then you should only have a single 3/8 leaving your motor/ pipe.
A 3/8 from the pump wyed to the motor that leaves the motor to another wye is okay, it's reduced back to 3/8.
A 1/2" in with two 3/8" out should be okay.
However, a single 3/8 from the pump feeding the manifold with two 3/8 lines off the head going to pissers with no wye or restrictors might not be okay. The water can travel too easily through the motor which could cause air pockets and hot spots.
You can put 50 pissers in if you want, but you need to consolidate back down to the inlet size then split them again, or put in restrictors.
Etc.
On my ski, I have 3 pissers, but the reality is i only have 2. The 3rd pisser is better described as a FCV monitoring port than an actual pisser. It allows me to see how much water is entering my stinger at what RPM. It has absolutely no impact on cooling my motor or pipe.
Arguably I am running dual cooling to my motor and single cooling to my pipe. 2 lines into the motor, but the rear lines leaves the boat, only the front line from the motor feeds the pipe.
I'm not saying your setup is wrong. If your ski is running in a way you are happy, then obviously it's good. I'm just referencing a general guideline.
yeah, this.
- Location
- New Jersey
Thanks for the info man, definitely will be playing with the set up forsure. Ran good with no issues, just never got sizzling on chamber, going to restrict flow a little bit more, then clean up the lines like you said, thanks
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Your cooling is not necessarily wrong. It's just not very common. Lots of threads on setting up cooling. Make any changes before you change you tune your screws. Adding the second pump fitting will increase cooling pressure and alter the injection into your pipe. Any time tuning your pipe is wasted if you change your cooling after that.
My cooling is 2 lines from my pump, one to each of the manifold fittings.
The rear line from the head goes straight out of the boat unrestricted (rear cylinders often run slightly hotter)
The front line on the head feeds the top of the pipe. This is also where I have my flush fitting installed.
The pipe outlet wyes off, one line going to a pisser and the second going to the FCV
The line after the FCV wyes again with half going to the stinger and half going to a 3rd pisser (this halves the water to the stinger but more importantly it makes it so you can see how much and at what RPM the stinger gets water. My stinger doesn't get water until about 1500ish RPM.)
In florida at sea level. You might need to put restrictors on your pissers in winter up in NJ.