help me make my sj stop going to the bottom

whennotsailing

whennotsailing

Location
grand rapids/holland/Grand Haven MI
My SJ seems to enjoy taking on water when it goes under... I was messing around on the hood trying to make a fountain, and tried only a couple submarines and it filled itself up really fast, took water in the carb and did a good job of sinking near the beach.

I have added a Rule 500gph bilge (the expensive one with an auto mode that checks for water every 2.5 minutes) and that still doesn't seem to keep up. Probably due in part that it takes 2.5 minutes between checking for water.

On the front vertical side of the hood there are vent holes, is that where all the water gets in these things? Also, what kind of bilge pumps are guys running that kick on automatically? Do they have float switches installed? What can I do to seal this up a bit? I dont understand how all the stunter's can ride these skis if they like water that much. Please help.
 
HBCwatercraft

HBCwatercraft

Location
HOLLAND MA.
? U have a problem..leak somewere..i dont even use a bilge,and done plenty od subs,do u have a exit drain(one way valve kit)thats a must.Never had a h20 ever in my hull 2 the piont were id worry.
 
tor*p*do

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
rule 500s run dry no problem
i turn it on when i launch the ski and ******** it off when I quit riding
use the search function looking for "slutty hood mod" to keep more water out
sounds like you may have a leaking bond line or nose?
put ski on trailer and fill with water from a hose (safely of course ,dont flood motor, electrics or carb)
and see where water pours out from
 
Boris

Boris

The Good Old Days
Location
The surf-less coast
Other than doing the hood mod and installing a scupper there is one more thing that you could do.
Now that you know how to do fountains, STOP.
Time to move onto different tricks.

BTW, I bet once you seal up the hood you will be able to fountain all day.
 
Mike Serlin

Mike Serlin

NOW SPORTING A BIONIC LEG
Location
Long Beach, CA !!!
stop doing fountains, is it really worth sinking your boat for? Use attwood bilge pumps and leave them on. Every rule I've used hydrolocks when left on and wont pump water. Block off the front air intakes on the hood and you will be amazed at how much less water your ski will ingest, just use duct tape at first to try it out (this is the #1 most overlooked mod IMO), and of course make sure your hood is properly seated in the hood seal all the way around. I can sub my ski 10 feet underwater from a backflip and the bilge pump will run for about 5 seconds. Its no good if water is getting into your carbs. This is horrible for your engine and should be avoided at all costs.
 
S

sflsurfrider

24-7 760 superjet said:
Yes they have float switches, do u have a good hood seal (factory)..
Click to expand...

who runs a float switch in their standup??????

his problem is that he has a bilge pump made for a couch that only comes on every 2.5 minutes, instead of a standard one with a manual switch. he obviously doesnt have a scupper/oneway, either. of course its going to fill up with water.

wow:rolleyes:
 
Waternut

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I agree with tor*p*do...Don't bother with float switches or manual switches on the handlepole. Run a cheap arse switch in the engine bay and flip it on before you go out and turn it off when you're done. Mine spits little bits of water constantly and that's just extra weight in the boat that you don't want.
Unless I know I'm going to be stopping for more than 30 minutes, I even leave it on for that time period too because I might forget to turn it back on. Bilge pumps these days are designed to run even if they don't have water so it'll be fine...plus they're cheap so if you had to replace it every season, who cares.
 
whennotsailing

whennotsailing

Location
grand rapids/holland/Grand Haven MI
torpdo - a leaking bond line or nose makes me suspicious, are you talking the hull to deck joint? please expand on that.

I like your idea of doing the water test on the trailer. If it ever gets warm in MI i'll try it.

Boris & Mike - fountains are cool when your a amateur, plus I can't do anything else yet, only been riding 4 -5 times last summer, and prob about 8 times already this spring in MI (water temps in the high 30's and low 40's in lake MI, brrrr)

as for my bilge pump, i can set it to the auto mode where it checks every 2.5 minutes or I can "manually" turn it on manual mode but that requires that I hold the switch. ( I'll just get a different switch, double pole double throw should do it) I did not know you can run those nonstop like that, seems like a good way to wear a pump out. No i do not have a one way/scupper at this time....

Now, without going off on me, what is really sooo terrible about flooding the engine? Obviously the electrics are subject to being shorted out and corrosion, possible hydro locking and breaking/bending connecting rod, but I have done this 2-3 times now (not intentionally) and its been easy to get it going, just pull the plugs, crank the water back out of it, and a little starting fluid and shes up and running again.

You neeed to understand this thing takes on water quick, It's usually done after about 30 seconds or sitting on the front or 2-3 attempted subs.

If you seal up those hood intakes can the engine still breath ok?
 
G

Goose

Guest
would taking a peice of rubber or turf or something and attach it inside the hood liner draping down into the hull when its put on the hull mite slow the water down from goin in.
 
Waternut

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
sailinstud420 said:
Now, without going off on me, what is really sooo terrible about flooding the engine? Obviously the electrics are subject to being shorted out and corrosion, possible hydro locking and breaking/bending connecting rod, but I have done this 2-3 times now (not intentionally) and its been easy to get it going, just pull the plugs, crank the water back out of it, and a little starting fluid and shes up and running again.
Click to expand...

You're right, 2 strokes are fairly easy to clear with some basic tools. The biggest issue is the potential for major engine damage. Not only bending, breaking, or gouging parts but you also need to worry about internal corrosion. Also, you may be riding close to the beach but if you do ride farther out or the ski sinks in deeper water, you could easily lose you ski completely.
 
whennotsailing

whennotsailing

Location
grand rapids/holland/Grand Haven MI
Boris - thanks.

jfw432 - yeah I came close to completely loosing it, will these things sink if they do fill up? mine was floating nose down about 2" above the surface, but I got a rope tied around it pretty quick (scared me $H!TLE$$)

Internal corrosion? I wouldn't worry bout that, just run it long enough to warm it up and burn the water out....
 
Mouthfulloflake

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
it should not sink all the way, none of mine ever have ( square nose superjets)

saltwater is a nightmare in the engine and electric box, rinse that stuff, 10 times as much as you think is required to get all the salt out, and its still likely to be in there.

you should have a factory siphon bilge built in, those with 2 500 gph attwoods generally clear the hull pretty fast.

a good hood seal is crucial, AND tape off those front hood holes, and I generally tape off ONE side of the hood louver vent things on my boats.
 
Shadow7874

Shadow7874

Location
Ocala, FL
how easy is it to sink? im getting a sj soon and ill mostly be riding in deeper water and sometimes alone. and im sure im gonna wanna fountain every now and then. and subs look fun too :)
 
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