HELP reading my plug chop.

After tuning on my ski for a while I decided to do a plug chop. I am not experienced at reading the colors of the spark plugs so I thought I would post up some pictures and get others opinions. The lighter colored plug was in the front cylinder, the darker plug in the rear cylinder. The setup is a 760 motor with lowered poor timing running 200 pounds of compression dual 44 carburetors 115 pilot 130 Main and 28 pounds of pop off. I'm running 100 octane AV fuel 50 to 1 caster 927. The ski is running the best it has ever ran but I want to be sure that my plugs arnt lean. The plugs were not new I am going to do some more plug ch
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ops this afternoon with fresh plugs I'll post those pictures up also.
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
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California
If you mixed those two colors together they would perfect! When you do the testing you need to hold it WOT for however long and then kill the engine. Idling will make them look rich. I had a good article with pictures but can't seem to find it now.
 
im pretty sure you're supposed to have a different size main jet in the back carb. that should give you the same plug readings on both plugs. im not sure if its a smaller or bigger size jet, but i know i got 2 different sizes in me carbs.
 
That is true on a stock 760 in the b2. It was done to lessen the strain on the rear cylinder. Actually In my picture the plug that looks leaner was in the front cylinder and the rear is the dark one. Also the b2 uses a different flywheel and staggers the timing between the cylinders. I am using a 650 flywheel and msd enhancer so the timing is the same.
 
To continue my theme of piggy backing your threads ha...

How do these plugs look? I thought they looked more rust colored than I'm used to. Different ski than the bubble boy ski btw... This ski had saltwater in the engine for two weeks. Is running fine now,but that's why I am paying attention to any signs of impending doom image.jpg image.jpg
 
ive had fairly lengthy conversations with my machinist about this very topic.. he doesnt really rely on plug readings to tune an engine.. there is only two real ways to tune an engine and that is with a tach or measuring exhaust temps on each cylinder... he sent me this plug chart on the proper way to read the plugs... you could be rich enough that the fuel washes the color off of the plug... which isnt bad at all.. if you want to check the plugs, you need an otoscope that will magnify up to 10x to get close look... with a tach, you will go to max rpm and watch it once it reaches max rpm..if it gets to max rpm and starts to loose several hundred rpm, you are probably lean or have too much timing and are getting detonation.. the rpms should stay within 50-100ish rpms if the mixture is correct.. this is the chart he sent me.. you can check to see if you have too much timing which is always accurate but sometimes color wont be.. especially if you dont shut it off while still at wot.. Spark Plug Chart.jpg
 
Yup, those plugs are rusty colored. I would assume it is because there is either some rusty sludge in your base starting to work its way through the system or it is from the crank and bearings having surface rust on them. Typically between the oil and the detergents in the oil, it will mix with the surface rust and help wash it off. It would appear that this is all you are seeing on the plugs, most likely it will clear out with a few tanks run through. The plug reading is a good practice and offers reasonably reliable evidence of what is going on inside. The color to look for is a nice chocolate brown tanning to show that the burn is clean and efficient. Tachs and exhaust temp sensors work too but only in certain circumstances, not too many of us have access to an isolating test tank to max out the engine and get true consistent tach or temp sensor readings. I know on Ultralight aircraft they need exhaust temp sensors and gauges but that is a totally different purpose and they have a dash to carry that kind of equipment.

Never try to tach a ski out on the trailer with only a garden hose attached, the results will never be accurate due to no pump load not to mention the damage that can occur. A garden hose can only put through about 3 gallons per minute with minimal pressure behind it. Not nearly enough to satisfy the demands of a prolonged wide open engine run. I think the pump could take damage too if I remember correctly...something about expansion of the impeller when run dry and contacting the wear ring, don't hold me to that but it seems to me that I have read that somewhere before.

The plug on the right does appear to be showing slight signs of proper burn color just above and to the right of the bridge, but just to be safe it would be a good idea to change them out a few times until they start looking normal again. Gap settings will have different results on color too. If it is too far spaced the plug will look white with a frost-like residue, that is indicative of either too lean of fuel and/or too much gap space. The more gap, the more voltage needed to jump the gap, more voltage...more heat. To small of a gap, lower voltage leaving a smooth dark almost black porcelain insulator with a wet look from lack of proper ignition and/or too rich of a fuel charge.
 
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