help with electrical

so i posted this is the blaster forum as well wasnt sure the best place for it:

Ok everyone i know this could one of a few problems but i figured i would explain my situation and see what i can get as far as suggestions. I have a WB1 760 recently my starter went out (solenoid clicked when start button was pressed and again when released) so my solenoid was clearly sending power but the started was not turning. I replaced the starter and gt everything back together. I pressed start and the engine fired and idled for a few seconds then stopped. I press the start button and i get nothing at all. no click, no nothing. i was thinking this might be the solenoid dying but that almost doesnt make since as the engine had already fired up and died. im questionable about the kill switch. What are your thoughts?
 

CRJ

Hibernating
Location
Toronto
Theres a fuse in the e-box that will cut power. Also remember that because a relay clicks doesnt mean it works. Ive have plenty click and send no power.
 
fuse is good. when relay clicked it was fine. replaced starter... started like a champ for about 10 seconds. then everything died. im going to recheck my grounds tomorrow but i was pretty confidant in them before this problem. also battery is full also have a backup full batter i double checked with.
 
update. with the continuity tester: solenoid is working. Starter is working. fuse is fine. battery is good. start switch is good. killswitch seems to not have a circuit but when jumped from the ebox still will not fire. i am going to spend my saturday testing every single wire in the hull. any other suggestion are welcome and if i do diagnose the problem i will post it.
 

KTM434

Jamie FN Hickey
Location
Palm Coast FL
You tried disconnecting the stop switch connector? (Black and white) wires off of start/stop harness. Also bad battery cables are definitely a possibility. Check how much power is being applied to the starter post. Ideally it'll be the same voltage as your battery but there will likely be voltage drops across battery cables, start switch, relay, etc. if your voltage is less than 12v at starter then start back tracking and checking for voltage drops across each wire and connector. You can put your meter leads on each end of a cable or connector and it'll tell you the difference in voltage from one side to the other (voltage drop) when power is applied to it. (Battery side of relay is hot at all times and starter side is only hot when start button is pressed). If you're getting 12v to your starter and it's a known good starter then you may have a locked up motor or a swollen wear ring and stuck prop. Try rotating couplers or driveshaft by hand to check for this
 
so heres waht ive gathered. i hooked the solenoid up, pulled the brown wire and connected it straight to the battery. nothing. this means it must be on the ground. tested wires back to the ebox where all the ground are conneccted. im assuming the ground wire going to the stator if fried. im going to plug everything back up as normal and just run a ground wire directly from the xbox to the battery ground. if it fires then my stator assemby will need to be changed. ill keep everyone informed.
 
ok guys i fixed the problem and im going to explain my process of elimination so that everyone that reads this will understand and hopefully find my method helpful.

First: i tested the battery and found it was working properly and that my fuse was also working (replaced fuse anyways for good measure).
Second: i used a continuity tester to check me large power wires from the battery to the solenoid, from the soleonid to the starter, and the ground from the starter back to the battery. I found all of which to be fine.
Third: i used the metal of a screw driver to touch the two large metal parts on the solenoid (this send electricity directly to the starter and will tell you if your start is working or not) (although this will spark violently so be prepared) This caused the starter to jump on in an attempt to start the motor. (this tells me that the Battery starter and wires between them are fine.
Fourth. I completely disconnected the solenoid. I put the power and ground (small wires used to power the solenoid itself) directly to the battery and heard it "CLICK" which means the solenoid is working. I then used the continuity tester on the larger posts on the solenoid while a friend applied the power to the solenoid. When the solenoid "clicked" we had a good flow of current on the solenoid.

so far: battery is good, wires up to thus are good, solenoid is working. This leaves the wiring the solenoid is then connected to.

Fifth: i reconnected the solenoid and began to use the continuity tester to test the wires tracing from the main power wire through the chain of power in the wires. ALL which were fine.
Sixth: i removed the plugs for the start stop assemble and with the continuity tester found that these were also in working order.
Seventh: after testing the flow of power which seemed to be fine, I disconected only the power wire on the solenoid and connected it directly to the battery. NOTHING.

This told me that it was not a power issue but a ground issue.

Eighth: i used the continuity tester to test the ground wires to the ground post and everything was fine.

COMMON KNOWLEDGE: everything in the Ebox is grounded to a double bolt post which is then channeled down a ground wire in the stator assembly and grounded to the case on the front of the motor.

so from here the only logical end to my problem is that the ground in the case was out or the wire in the assembly had burnt out.

I opened up my case and found that the screw holding the ground wire in the case had backed out and gotten thrown and ground my stator up.

Replaced the stator assembly... and everything fired up and idled beautifully. Problem solved.

Hope this helps guys!IMG_5370.JPG
 

motoman3000

ride
Site Supporter
Location
new jersey
Would an extra/redundant ground wire have helped in this situation or just disguised a true problem as yours was found to be with lost screw in stator?

I've read in past threads wiring an extra ground is helpful, esp. in surf. Would that be from the case to -neg batt? Case to ground post in ebox?
 

CRJ

Hibernating
Location
Toronto
Would an extra/redundant ground wire have helped in this situation or just disguised a true problem as yours was found to be with lost screw in stator?

I've read in past threads wiring an extra ground is helpful, esp. in surf. Would that be from the case to -neg batt? Case to ground post in ebox?
case to e-box would have solved it if his stator was fine. But having double wires everywhere is unnecessary really.



a quick side note, just because your starter relay clicks DOES NOT mean it works. Ive have relays that click but will not send power through them.
 
2thelake: i did all of this because my solenoid wasnt not clicking.

The way a solenoid works is that when power is applied it clicks into place and completes the chain in the two big red wires on top. If it does not click it is either not getting power, not grounded, or is not working.

my suggestion is to keep it hooked up but:

1: connect both the little red and black wires to the battery directly to make sure your solenoid is working (you should hear a click)

if it clicks then you have an issue with either your power, ground, or perhaps both.

2: unhook the power to the solenoid (litte red wire) and place is directly on the battery power. If it does not work it might be a ground issue.

3: keep it hooked up and connect the ground wire (little back wire) directly to the ground. If it does not click it is likely a power issue.

i would highly suggest investing $20 in a continuity tester.

If you are still having trouble with it after these suggestions, shoot me an inbox and ill walk you though what to do next.

Cheers!
 
@Xodiac for some reason i cant PM anyone, maybe because im a relativity new member with very little posts. anyway i did #1 in your post and the relay clicked which i hasnt done since last time it was on. im currently looking for some jumper wires to do the rest of the steps.
 
@Xodiac i found a jumper and when i did step #2 it DID crank. then i did step #3 and nothing happened. which means its likely a power issure. I have a fluke multimeter that can test for continuity. thank you for replying to my first post on this thread
 
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