hitch carrier

RoyalFlush@PCB

Shootin' The Crap
Location
PCB
Here's a couple more of mine without the ski...

The only problem I've had is the ride plate hits the 2" square tube that's between the rails because it sits nearly flush with the top of the pipe. I brought a rough sketch and a hoodless squarenose hull with no rideplate, so the welder didn't know any better. One of these days I'll just put some turf on it. :rolleyes:
 

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I'm thinking of the same setup (with the versa-haul), although i'll be towing with a Jeep Liberty. I'm trying to figure out if the tongue weight of my superjet on the carrier AND a couch being towed behind will be too much to handle. Anyone try this setup on something a little smaller than a pickup? Any rear-end sagging for those who use it on pick-ups?

Pls let me know! thanks,
SNE
 
I'm thinking of the same setup (with the versa-haul), although i'll be towing with a Jeep Liberty. I'm trying to figure out if the tongue weight of my superjet on the carrier AND a couch being towed behind will be too much to handle. Anyone try this setup on something a little smaller than a pickup? Any rear-end sagging for those who use it on pick-ups?

Pls let me know! thanks,
SNE

I hauled my SJ behind my Jeep Wrangler and it sagged it pretty good but not so much that I wouldn't haul a trailer. The liberty will be fine with the ski and a trailer. If you don't like the way it sags the truck then get a set of thoes screw in spring helpers and install them in the rear springs. You won't know that they are there untill the ski is on there they just help when you have a load. About $20 at Autozone. A buddy has a mustang and hauls a huge lawn mower trailer with the stang and has those spring helpers.
 

oxnard111

Creative RE Purchasing
A hitch hauler like mine with a ski even makes my dad's 3/4 ton pickup sag, so I would have no doubt that a mid size would sag if not even rid on the over loads. But it all depends on the vehicle.
 
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hangtime

Speak up ,don't kiss azz
Just get a truck with the 1 ton suspension and you'll have NO problems.

I towed 5 ski's on a trailer and 2 inside my van home from daytona with a huge amount of tongue weight and had no sag at all .

Royal Flush ,how much did you pay the welder for yours including materials
 
Did some of you guys see the one on the back of the white van in Daytona? I made that one in about two hours with 2x2 1/4 inch sq. tubing and schedule 40 2" steel pipe. Way to big to ship, but for the right price I may be able to make a few. You paint. I've been using mine for over a year with no issues (except for when I didn't strap it down at lake Lanier and tried to ski up the boat ramp while holding onto the superjet).
 

hangtime

Speak up ,don't kiss azz
Did some of you guys see the one on the back of the white van in Daytona? I made that one in about two hours with 2x2 1/4 inch sq. tubing and schedule 40 2" steel pipe. Way to big to ship, but for the right price I may be able to make a few. You paint. I've been using mine for over a year with no issues (except for when I didn't strap it down at lake Lanier and tried to ski up the boat ramp while holding onto the superjet).



I did see that one and that's what I'm attaching mine to is a van .Can you open the back doors with the ski on there or not (I'm thinking not).

How far do you think is safe to extend the receiver out ?? 3 maybe 4 ft .
 
You can not extend it very far unless you have a heavy duty suspension. Mine is a 2500 or 3/4 ton. There is a leverage factor there the further you extend it out. Basically I would not extend it further than necessary. When I use it on my Durango you know it's there and it squats the suspension some. Behind the van you don't even know it's there. The doors can not open when the ski is on there, but they open when it is off.
I forgot to put in the first post that I am a certified welder.
 

hangtime

Speak up ,don't kiss azz
Well I have the biggest van made a 1 ton GMC 3500 extended wheel base which enables more weight to be put at the back with less squat .
It's made to hold 15 passengers but I only keep the first row of seats in and the rest is empty except when I'm working.
It really is a bad azz hauler.

I put a ton and half of ceramic tile in it and get about 6 inches of squat .


I have a real good idea of what I want now I just have to get the materials and have my brother in law weld it for me .

thanks for all the info :biggthumpup: :arms:
 

RoyalFlush@PCB

Shootin' The Crap
Location
PCB
HMMM ,I might just go with the versahauler for $389 if it's that much .
Maybe I'll just make one out of steel too it would be cheaper .

Yeah--it's pricey, but I really wanted one in aluminum. I had one made back in my 550 days out of steel and in salt water it seemed to rust real easy. Granted, the paint was el cheapo and it sat at my old townhouse about two blocks off the beach for awhile, which rapidly increased it's deterioration being that close to the salt.

My house now is on a brackish water canal, so I tend to overbuild things sometimes because it's usually more cost and time effective to do so.
 
Aluminum is by far the way to go. It saves weight and is corrosion resistant. You get what you pay for.
I used a two part epoxy paint on mine and I am at the beach every weekend. It has held up pretty good. I was thinking around 100 bucks for one like mine.
 
Location
Delaware
I had one made using 2" sq stock and rebar..... weighs about 70#s and cost $50-$65 to make with a friend welding it, I'm sure more if you take it to someone. As others have said, it needs to be as close as it can be to the vehicle or you'll be jeopardizing the tongue weight limit on your vehicle.





IMO I'd stay away from the rack conversions you see people doing, the racks use thin walled steel that doesn't look like it will hold up, even though they're rated at 500#s.
 
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