23 minutes to local spot at 75 mph.
4 1/2 - 5 hours doing 75-80 mph to pismo beach and back.
$69.00 Harbor freight 500 lb capacity.
Im 50/50 on this..Which one is gonna Buckle under the pressure? Safety First..You dont want to lose your ski, and your daily driver. or make a mess on the highway..Ive seen boats come off trailers..talk about a bullet in a china cabinet.
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wow... you guys over think this stuff.... 90% of the time a receiver hitch will have a rating much higher than the payload of the vehicle... like my pickup, has an 1600lb payload, meaning, the factory doesn't recommend me carry more than 1600lbs on the rear axle.. my receiver hitch itself is "rated" for 2000lbs... meaning the hitch is rated for more than the springs are, this is how most are set up... for you to say a receiver is rated for 500 is funny to me, as most hitch inserts are rated 2000-5000(for a good one)... i have an adjustable one that is rated for 500lbs, funny thing is I pull a car trailer with it all the time.. I've ran a skidsteer to the front of the trailer so far that it was completely in front of the trailer axle(placing 2500-3000lbs on that hitch that's rated for 500lbs)... driving with it like that, of course not, but if you're 300lb ski is going to create 2000lbs of force when hitting a bump you're tires would blow out from the weight of the vehicle every time you hit a bump... as far as having issues with a unibody vehicle, as long as your hitch bolts to the rail from the bottom and the side you'll be fine, unibody is stronger than most people think, if the right equipment is used(i own a body shop, i deal with them all the time), and I've seen just as many problems with hitches on full frames as i have on unibody, it's all in proper equipment... seems like people just need to read less warning labels and acquire more experience...
my point being... your receiver won't be the part that fails... it will be the carrier instead, make sure your main bar will be plenty strong as stated 2x2 1/4" wall me personally would do 3/8" wall... also... strap the ski to the carrier, and run a safety chain to the hitch, just for safe keeping if in the slight chance something would go wrong, it's still attached and won't hit the ditch and tumble or slide into the other lane... do this and check your payload rating(I'm guessing it will be over 500lbs) and mind you, this rating is not a "static weight" rating, so if it says it will hold 500lbs it means it will hold 500lbs, not 300lbs after you factor in the force of bumps, it's tested to withstand the abuse of 500lbs...
the thing most people look over are the frames of their trucks.
thats nuts...
Ive no problem with towing a trailer from a hitch hauler, but we keep it to a single small standup trailer that is ultra light
putting those barges off the back of it is asking for trouble
2x2x1/4 wall main tube will not twist in the receiver.
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you're going to store your ski on the back of your SUV?
all the time? like that's where I keep it because that's where it goes because i have no where else to put it?
rock on brother thats hardcore
if you were a civilized human being i would tell you to just get a storage unit or build a shed considering the price of a hitch hauler, ski cover, and new shocks
but that doesnt apply to you
because you are a savage
Id inspect the frame very carefully and if its anything less than prefect, I'd beef it up big time. The carrier isnt the thing that will fail, its your car frame. I have a class 3 on my jeep cherokee and its amazing it holds any weight the way its bolted in. I had to drop the tank, and add a bunch more bolts to give me a little but more piece of mind. however, i still dont trust it going down the road.
The rated tongue weight the hitch can carry is 500lbs. most oem skis will be over 300lbs. take that 300 and place it on your hitch carrier (which in other words, its now a lever). That 300 at 2 feet will add a lot more load on the hitch, plus every bump you hit will increase the G-loads greatly (only for a quick Sec). All this together equals a failure somewhere in the future. This is why i do not trust mine...(yet, i still use it every weekend...)
If the SUV has a heavy duty frame, and not the garbage uni-bodies (like my jeep has) cars have now, you should be ok. (inspect anyway). If you have a light duty frame or uni-body, beef up the frame in the back.
I hope this makes sense, i rushed typing this and didnt read it over...