Super Jet Hood Straps

rwilliamtaylor

Ride, Wrench, Repeat
Location
San diego
Just for comparison sake... I run two 500gph bilges in one of my skis and a single 500GPH plus an Epic Scupper in the other. The dual bilges often run for 30+ seconds to clear the hull and the Scupper equipped ski clears the hull in a single BRAPP of the throttle (a couple of seconds). I guess it all depends on how you typically ride your ski which works best or is "good enough" for you. If you've got your motor out of your hull it's super easy to install a scupper and the scupper costs about $100. Check out this DIY install...

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/117327-Epic-scupper-valve-install-on-SN-Superjet&highlight=
 
I will think about it... my guy paint guy said that he would have my ski done by the middle of next month, so i have time . . . but serioulsy, is it going to be kinda dumb runnin a scupper with dual bilges? or do a lot of guys run that?
 

rwilliamtaylor

Ride, Wrench, Repeat
Location
San diego
Right... Back to hood straps... Here's a different approach on a SN Superjet. Got the idea from my buddies Rickter. The clips are 300 lb. rated each.

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hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
The clips are 300 lb. rated each.

How hard would a 300lb ski have to hit :splatt: to generate 600lb of force? Answer: not very hard. Don't rely on a thin piece of plastic to keep your hood on. It will work fine until the day it don't. 1 inch nylon webbing has a tensile strength of 3000-4000lbs. PLace a plastic buckle on there and now the weak link is 300lbs. Ratchet ftw
 
How hard would a 300lb ski have to hit :splatt: to generate 600lb of force? Answer: not very hard. Don't rely on a thin piece of plastic to keep your hood on. It will work fine until the day it don't. 1 inch nylon webbing has a tensile strength of 3000-4000lbs. PLace a plastic buckle on there and now the weak link is 300lbs. Ratchet ftw
I agree with that 100%. ratchet for the straps to prevent the hood to come apart and stock latch for stability on the hood sideways. Thats the only 100% safe way IMO. I had the plastic clips on my SJ and when I over tighten the straps the clips were getting unlocked...
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
Don't think you'd hit 600 lbs force applied to the plastic strap latches if using front and rear hood latches, especially billet ones.

If not using latches and only plastic straps, well that's not a good idea because you cant tension the pull straps enough to hold the hood tight.
 
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Location
NorCal
I didn't want to drill into my hull and am not equipped to tap my pole mount bracket, so I run my straps from the stock ebox mount positions in the tray and then hook them to the pole pin using S hooks. I used home depot rubber tie downs that stretch and put decent downward force onto the hood.

I run wdk hood latches on the hull side and stock SJ hooks on the (stock) hood. I have an oem hood seal as well.

I've dropped my ski on its side from 15+ feet more than once without issue (well, without hood issues).

<<<<<<< You can see the left one a bit in my avatar

I can post detailed pics if there is interest.
 
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I didn't want to drill into my hull and am not equipped to tap my pole mount bracket, so I run my straps from the stock ebox mount positions in the tray and then hook them to the pole pin using S hooks. I used home depot rubber tie downs that stretch and put decent downward force onto the hood.

I run wdk hood latches on the hull side and stock SJ hooks on the (stock) hood. I have an oem hood seal as well.

I've dropped my ski on its side from 15+ feet more than once without issue (well, without hood issues).

<<<<<<< You can see the left one a bit in my avatar

I can post detailed pics if there is interest.

There is always interest to see someone elses innovations...
 
Location
NorCal
Okay so here are some pics of my setup.

As I said this set up came from not wanting to drill into my hull and being unable to tap my pole mount bracket.

I used the stock ebox mounting points that come through to the tray. I cut off a bit of turf and found nuts and bolts with the correct thread and cut them to length. I then put the straps (with washers) on the bolts on a lock nut onto each and tightened it down close to the head of the bolt, so that there was just enough room left for the strap to fit. So, when I threaded the setup in through the holes in the tray, they could only go so far until the lock washer hit the hull and thus left the correct amount of bolt sticking into the tray. There is a close up that you can just see the lock nut in, it is kind of recessed into the turf.

I used an eyelet bolt on the one side and this is where my pole limiter connects to. It is a bit close to the primer but I’ve never had an issue with it. The eyelet was near-impossible to find in stainless with the right threads, I forget where I got it from, I think the West Marine website for like $15, and then I had to cut it down to length.

The straps are stretchy home depot tie downs, they randomly were the correct length. They run up over the back of my stock hood. They put a lot of downward and slightly forward pressure on the back hump of the hood. The pic with my hand in it, where my finger is, there is a decent amount of of pressure being applied.

At the very front, I used S hooks to attach to the pole pin. They do not interfere with the spring or anything else. I have been running this set up for 3 years. The straps only really contact the hood at the one point at the back where my finger is in the one pic, and are elevated a fair amount at the front where they connect to the pin. However, the contact at the back of the hood pushes the hood downward and slightly forward into the billet WDK hood hooks I have on the hull, which are very low and are not going to let the hood go anywhere. I’ve dropped this thing like a fool from very high on its side and not had any movement of the hood.

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just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
Excellent write-up!

I did something similar with the nylon straps. Wrapped a loose end around the pole mount bolt and used a stainless steel rivet.

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baxt3r

BBQ
Location
Charlotte, NC
This is how I did the front of the straps. I sandwiched them between the hull and bracket using the bracket bolts to hold them in place. It may be wrong, but I am not going back and changing it. Still need to figure out where I am going to mount the short strap and ratchet.
 

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