- Location
- Fullerton,CA
How do i fix it!
- Thread starter Nerd 10
- Start date
I'll let the fiberglass guys answer about the damage...
For the throttle: pull back the rubber boot, there is a threaded adapter which your cable feeds into, loosen the locking ring and unscrew the threaded part of the cable from the throttle trigger. This will essentially pull the cable back and should remove most or all of the slack. Once you have it where you're comfortable tighten the locking ring.
For the throttle: pull back the rubber boot, there is a threaded adapter which your cable feeds into, loosen the locking ring and unscrew the threaded part of the cable from the throttle trigger. This will essentially pull the cable back and should remove most or all of the slack. Once you have it where you're comfortable tighten the locking ring.
Magyar68
Really!!!
- Location
- Lewisville
I have that same finger throttle on my SX was bummed when I put on my Square. It doesn't have enough Pull to completely open the throttle. Works great on Kawasaki's with he Thumb throttle, but even wight he Adaptor it just doesn't have the pull length..
Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
Have installed same lever (Hot Products) on 3 different SJ. I have found if the throttle cable has stretched, it is harder to get full throttle pull.
About the OP. The easiest way to fix the crack is to sand the paint off and get down to bare fiberglass/SMC and repair it. Use fiberglass body filler to blend it in. If you have never fiberglassed before, I would watch some youtube videos, there also a ton of info on here about proper fiberglass repairs.
- Location
- south dakota
pull up the turf to find out how far that crack extends under it is job 1.. then as yami said.. grind it out until you have a good size area down past the color coats(paint, gel coat)... then either glass it back in with a mat and resin(poly should be fine)... or get some fiberglass filler(long strand recommended).. then sand it smooth and kill it with some new paint...
- Location
- south dakota
I've never seen a problem with epoxy breaking down mat... and that don't look at all like smc.. I was honestly thinking it looked like a kawi hull... but on second look, it looks like its an old repair that failed... in which case refer to the first thing I said in my last post...
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Chop is held together with starch. Poly desolves the starch and quickly penetrates it. Epoxy can not resolve the starch and penetrates poorly. You can use epoxy with chop, but its nothing like working poly with chop.
Vumad
Super Hero, with a cape!
- Location
- St. Pete, FL
Grind out the crap, cover it with epoxy. I like to use 1208 biax and 3:1 epoxy.
The repair needs to overlap so try to do it in one piece where the 1st layer overlaps the damage by 1" on all sides and the last layer by 2-3" on all sides, with each layer inbetween a little larger than the last but smaller than the next. The number of layers will depend on how much you have to grind out. Sand off the paint anywhere you are putting repair.
If you grind all the way through the hull, shape the foam for the repair, you may need to add some foam so you have something the right shape to glass over.
Yami-Rider
TigerCraft FV-PRO
- Location
- Texoma
That's definitely a 440 or 550 hull. As stated, use epoxy resin.
Right.Poly resin will not work on a square, and I wouldn't recommend plain old fiberglass mat due to the binders that hold it together, since epoxy can't break it down. Right @Dalton?
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Vumad's got it.
Before I knew anything about composites I used polyester resin to widen my 550 foot tray 4 or 5 years ago and it's still holding up well and not peeling off. Even so I'd still use epoxy if it's available. The bonding characteristics and strength are much better.
Last edited:
- Location
- Fullerton,CA
Ding ding ding, Its a 87' js550 hull!
- Location
- south dakota
hey guys.. just wanted to add something to the epoxy with mat ordeal..
as I said, I have never had an issue with epoxy with chop mat... after reading your posts about not using them together I did some looking around on the company I get my material(not uscomposites) and I remembered what and why I do what I do... I don't buy chop mat, I buy the "tape" which is not starched and is compatible with epoxy...
as I said, I have never had an issue with epoxy with chop mat... after reading your posts about not using them together I did some looking around on the company I get my material(not uscomposites) and I remembered what and why I do what I do... I don't buy chop mat, I buy the "tape" which is not starched and is compatible with epoxy...
This is some good info here. I wasn't aware that the tape isn't bound. I'll have to get some of that and try it out.