How do I set my Timing? What should it be?

[2lick]

How do I set and check my timing.

I put the stator on and lined up the stock marks, however they are not a factory set.

Here is my equation:

I don't know what effects this but...
62t cases
62t stator rebuilt by JSS
TBM 2lb flywheel
MSD enhancer
61x stock cylinder ported
+5mm RAD stroker crank
5mm stroker clearance cut into domes 190 psi
ADA head
b-pipe mod chamber - head pipe @ 47mm
Dual 48 Full Spec carbs
Boyesen Intake with RAD valves

What timing should I have?
I made a semi educated guess and came up with 21 degrees??
Suggestions?

How do I verify the timing???
There are no marks on the flywheel....


Any help on any part of my Question is greatly appreciated!!!!!!

 

[SUPERTUNE]

See my replies in this post...Same for a Yamaha, except for the timing chart for the 5mm stroker.
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/47343
Call shop and speak to Radney and he can e-mail/fax you the chart to use.

 

[2lick]

Thank you Chuck and Radney for helping me out on the phone.

Good info I dug up... Some of it is repetative but each post has a part to the puzzle...

How to check your timing with a light... BTW it can be really easy or really hard on a 750.

A timing light is basically a strobe light that flashes every time the spark plug is supposed to fire. This means that a semi-dark fly wheel will only be visible at a single time (spark plug fire) and therefore only visible at a certain degree. This is your static timing when the engine is at idle. Unless the flywheel has it already, you'll have to make marks on the flywheel for TDC and every 5° after that. You also need to mark on the case where TDC is. Do a search for a degree wheel on google to help with the degree marks or use a protractor.

Now that you have marks on the flywheel and a timing light, you can begin the procedure. You can't take the flywheel cover off because the bendix will fall out and destroy your flywheel and bendix ($$$). So you either need to cut a spare flywheel cover to hold the bendix on a SJ or (if you have a 750) you can remove the plug at the top of the flywheel cover. With a bit of head twisting and mirror work, you can see through that plug on the 750. Fire the engine up and start the light. It'll make perfect sense once you see it.

You Have 2 choices...Pay someone that KNOWS how to check timing OR
LEARN to do it yourself.
I have a degree chart if you would like to learn and do it. Not very hard.
Tools needed:
timing light
dial indicator in a sparkplug holder
a piece of welding rod (or a metal coat hanger wire)
Timing chart
tach (nice to have, but not really needed)
black fine point marker

Take off coupler cover,
make up and mount a wire pointer with some spacers off the coupler cover studs
sharpen wire to a point and position over engine drive coupler
install dial indicator and zero to TDC
turn crankshaft to degrees wanted on the upstroke-BTDC (for a fixed std. timing light) using degree chart use fine marker and draw a line @ pointer
OR
make mark for tdc and use an adjustable timing light (deluxe model)
Cover ski or stick a-s-s end of ski out the garage door, turn out lights
fire up ski, pointing timing light at coupler and pointer, bring up rpm's until you get max timing then read timing markings, shut off right away unless your going to hook up a hose for cooling engine.
If you use a adjustable timing light, turn dial up until TDC timing mark lines up at maximum timing. Then read the timing @ the dial.
Not to hard, but a bit nervy at first until you get the hang of it...
C

Just line them up @ the stock mark in the cases w/the line on stator plate, then check with a timing light when engine is running.
To do this, remove coupler cover, make a coat hanger pointer to mount off the cover stand and over to engine side coupler, next remove sparkplug and install a dial indicator set to a spec height for the *21 degrees (STOCK) or *24 if you want *3 degrees more advanced timing, make a line on coupler for pointer, then hook up a strobe timing light and start and rev to 5000 rpms and see if your pointer marks line up, If they don't, then move stator plate until they do.

The best method is to use a "dial indicator" through the spark plug hole, find true TDC, use a timing degree chart that I will supply with purchase, and and use either the cool timing tape mentioned above or simply make corresponding timing marks on the crankcase and flywheel and /or PTO coupler. You should check the timing both "static" with the MSD, and also the actual "running" timing. You dont have to purchase all the tools, but I use the following items, and they are all in stock.
Dial indicator True TDC locator Timing chart Timing light

I always check the "Run" timing, and I reccommend checking both cylinders, as the trigger pick-ups can be set differently (multi-triggers), and it will also show if your crankshaft is out of phase. http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/TDC_Gauge.htm

Thanks,
Randy at Watcon

Yes, your on the right track, I always use #1 cylinder with a dial gauge, use a pointer (mount from the coupler mount) and a scribe your TDC mark on the rear coupler as it's easy and will give you a distance reading, (how much your timing is off, move the stator plate the same amount) set the timing light for 21 degrees and make sure you bring up the RPMs to get full advance for a stock CDI, If you have an MSD enhancer, you can check it at much lower RPMs as the curve advance is on early then retards a little at high RPMs.

 

[Speedfreak]

Thanks for collecting all the data and putting it in one place. I knew how to do this but it was a good read anyhow.

 

[2lick]

Yup! And best bet is to get a hold of charts from someone for what ever size crank you have so you can make your marks accordingly....

 

[crammit442]

Yup! And best bet is to get a hold of charts from someone for what ever size crank you have so you can make your marks accordingly....

You can find spreadsheets all over the internet for any stroke/rod length combo possible. These will give you piston height in inches and mm. If you don't trust the spreadsheet check it with a degree wheel. The piston height will vary depending on stroke and rod length. Timing, in degrees, will be the same for all combinations (duh:thinkerg.

 

[Matt_E]

Not for the highly elusive +5 Degrees (365), +10 Degrees (370), and +12 Degrees (372) strokers!

 

[750SX]

It is kind of a pita to do because of how much the motor shakes. Also make sure you use a plain jane timing light, or one that has two stroke mode. If it has built in advance or other b/s it probably won't work. I ended up using my buddies 1973 sears timing light over a snap on haha.

Once you do get it set, I would recommend marking the new stator position vs the case. That way if for some reason your bolts would vibrate out, you can fix it lake side and get your timing right on. Ask me how I know.

 

[masterblaster]

Is a timing chart necessary for a 5 mil stroker if you are using a dial indicator to find tdc and a aftermarket flywheel that has marks every 5 deg with a 2 stroke timing light?

 

[munki63]

Yes, your on the right track, I always use #1 cylinder with a dial gauge, use a pointer (mount from the coupler mount) and a scribe your TDC mark on the rear coupler as it's easy and will give you a distance reading, (how much your timing is off, move the stator plate the same amount) set the timing light for 21 degrees and make sure you bring up the RPMs to get full advance for a stock CDI, If you have an MSD enhancer, you can check it at much lower RPMs as the curve advance is on early then retards a little at high RPMs.

Im running an epic and ive got the fancy software with it, So could I just program rev limit at 5000 and program a flat curve with no advance and as long as everything lines up im good?

 

[Pablo]

The Epic should come preprogrammed. Here's the quotes directly from ATP website:

"Electronically Programmed Ignition Control.

*E.P.I.C is a new CDI which is a direct replacement for your existing OEM CDI or Enhancer giving far improved gains over both.
*E.P.I.C has the ability to retain two timing curves and rev limits both of which the rider can switch between whist riding.
*E.P.I.C retains the charging capacity (OEM flywheel and stator coils).
*E.P.I.C fits in your OEM electric box
*E.P.I.C is made with tried, tested, trusted and proven ATP Ignition components, billet aluminium, black anodized and laser engraved.
*E.P.I.C is programmable via your PC or laptop.
*E.P.I.C provides excellent power gains and engine safety

Don’t want to get involved with the programming? No problem, all the units are pre-programmed.
If you want to tell us your ski spec we can tune it to your personal preference free of charge, all you do is you plug and play. "


If you've bothered with getting the software contact a few of the guys that are currently running one. I had Jetworks program mine kind of aggressive and it worked like a charm. I was only going to run one curve so I didn't bother buying the software, but it's nice to have. I would not do a flat curve if you're planning on doing your own program. The point of this thing is to be better than OEM and the preprogrammed curve will let that happen, or you can go more aggressive and set your self up as you would a TL curve:

--- degrees of advance
--- rev limit
--- retard rate.

Munkie, I'd contact the engine builder (if you had one built) for recommended specs or call ATP and have them give you some starting points. From what I've heard it's relatively simple. You'll love it.