how exactly does the factory self bilge work?

[TheSimpleManLance]

i was wondering how the factory self bilges work(like on a SJ)? i know they get some sort of a vacumn to start them flowing, but im not exaclty sure how, because my ski didn't have one on it when i bought it. could someone enlighten me,.

 

[michael950]

Since the bilge hose is connected to the exit nozzle of the pump, it creates a vacuum of sorts. Once water fills in the bilge, that vacuum empties the water.

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

Since the bilge hose is connected to the exit nozzle of the pump, it creates a vacuum of sorts. Once water fills in the bilge, that vacuum empties the water.

ok, so it only creates a vacumn untill it fill the bilge with water. then once it reaches a certain point the vacumn stops and the water that was in the line flows back out creating a sifion (SP*).

 

[cookerq62]

It works almost like the carburator does. Think of the hose like the fuel orafice and the water is the air.

 

[michael950]

ok, so it only creates a vacumn untill it fill the bilge with water. then once it reaches a certain point the vacumn stops and the water that was in the line flows back out creating a sifion (SP*).

Not really, the vacuum is always there when water runs through the pump. On WOT runs, you can drain the bilge. When I believe I have water in my bilge, and because I have no electric bilge pump or scupper/one-way, I make a WOT run to drain the water.

The vacuum is present when water goes through the pump, meaning the bilge is basically always running. Once water enters the hull the forward movement of the ski forces the water to the back of the ski (firewall). This water collects at the firewall where the strainer is located and the vacuum causes the water to exit the bilge.


That is the gist.

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

It works almost like the carburator does. Think of the hose like the fuel orafice and the water is the air.

that doesn't help me that much, because im pretty clueless on how exacty carborators work.

thats the reason why my skis carb isn't tuned to its full potential. im slowly learning.

carbs are not my specality. when i jetted my quad i asked motor heads on forums to give me a base line, and i took videos of the plug and quad running and posted it up on the forum. they then told me to make adjustments. worked out very well, just havent figured out how i can do the same for the ski.

that there tell you how clueless i am with carbs. i can tear a motor down and rebuild it, but can jet the damn thing.

i think i got the concept of how it works though. thanks.

 

[michael950]

Re-reading your first post, my first assumption is you are running dual cooling. Sometimes people remove the stock bilge to run a second cooling line, and run an electric bilge to remedy the removal.

I dislike this because should your bilge pump fail w/o you knowing, you might ingest water and hydrolock your motor. Try to start a hydrolocked motor and you can bend a rod. Not fun.

It is good you asked this question, get the relevant information and formulate a decision about what you want to do. :biggthumpup:

 

[demolition_x]

the stock thing works by this:

you have water flowing through your pump. at the end of your pump is a "hose" that sticks out roughly 45 degrees facing backwards.

this "hose" goes to your bilge. the water rushing through the pump greats a low pressure area behind this "hose" the end of the hose in the bilge tries to equalize the pressure, so the pump is really sucking your bilge dry.

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

Not really, the vacuum is always there when water runs through the pump. On WOT runs, you can drain the bilge. When I believe I have water in my bilge, and because I have no electric bilge pump or scupper/one-way, I make a WOT run to drain the water.

The vacuum is present when water goes through the pump, meaning the bilge is basically always running. Once water enters the hull the forward movement of the ski forces the water to the back of the ski (firewall). This water collects at the firewall where the strainer is located and the vacuum causes the water to exit the bilge.


That is the gist.

ok so there is always a constant vacumn running through that bilge as long as you are running WOT or at a resonable speed?

so lets say that if you took the strainer and lifted it off the floor it would just suck air, no water would back up through the hose that is running from the pump because it would have a vacumn sucking from the engine bay out to the pump area.

sorry i am being dificult and not really explaining myself very well, i just got an idea and i dont want to give it away. and i thought the self bilge might have worked but i dont think it will.

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

Re-reading your first post, my first assumption is you are running dual cooling. Sometimes people remove the stock bilge to run a second cooling line, and run an electric bilge to remedy the removal.

I dislike this because should your bilge pump fail w/o you knowing, you might ingest water and hydrolock your motor. Try to start a hydrolocked motor and you can bend a rod. Not fun.

It is good you asked this question, get the relevant information and formulate a decision about what you want to do. :biggthumpup:

my ski acually has the line from the bilge blocked off as soon as it gets past the firewall.

i bought it that way, and it had a 500GPM bilge to replace it.

i since them put a one way vlave in there along wiht the bilge

 

[michael950]

...

so lets say that if you took the strainer and lifted it off the floor it would just suck air, no water would back up through the hose that is running from the pump because it would have a vacumn sucking from the engine bay out to the pump area

....

No, water will not enter the hull through the stock bilge. There is a siphon break.

Are you trying to research a leak in your ski? Why your bilge fills with water?

 

[michael950]

If you lift the stock bilge, yes no water will enter unless water is at the same height as the strainer.

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

no, no leaks in my ski, just tring to find a good vacumn on the ski, and wondering if a stock self bilge would be a good sorce of one.

 

[demolition_x]

k spit it out now...


whats this top secret stuff...

i think the bilge would be a pretty good vaccuum but it would really depend on rpm's

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

k spit it out now...


whats this top secret stuff...

i think the bilge would be a pretty good vaccuum but it would really depend on rpm's

cant spill it. its just a thought i had floating around in my little head. :sneaky: :sneaky:



how much vacumn pressure do you think could be made at like 10-15 mph? or at the normal freestlyer, surf rider speed?

 

[demolition_x]

idk get a gauge that can do it....

hmmm the only thing i can think that you would need a vaccuum for would be for:

fuel pump maybe?

some type of trim set up.

or... idk

 

[Boris]

If you need the vacuum to empty your fuel tank quicker just add another carb.:biggthumpup:

One use for a good vacuum could be keeping the electrical box dry.
But the syphon might be a bit much.

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

idk get a gauge that can do it....

hmmm the only thing i can think that you would need a vaccuum for would be for:

fuel pump maybe?

some type of trim set up.

or... idk

:sneaky: :sneaky:

i might have to find someone with a stock bilge around me or try and purchase one to put on my ski. i have a boost gauge for a car that has vacumn preassure too. i think i can rig that up onto it and see.


thanks for your help, i got some designing to do. :cheer: :cheer:

 

[demolition_x]

just hook a hose up to your outlet in your bulkhead.

as long as your pump isn't bored you should be fine.

then stick it on the trailer and in the water and give her a good old brap...

 

[TheSimpleManLance]

boris, i dont need any help with that, i dont even want to know how much gas those dual carb skis suck. my little 650 sucks to much gas as it is.