Super Jet How much HOK epoxy primer for a Superjet?

[Matt_E]

Myself and a friend are trying to figure out how much primer and sealer to order to do his Superjet and my Superfreak.
He's thinking we might get away with two quarts of each for both skis.
Does anyone with experience with HOK products have any input?
Thanks.

 

[2010brandingo]

you should be good on the sealer, but pushin it on the primer. the primer is still pretty thick once reduced and doesn't go nearly as far. Also depends on how much you are trying to hide with it. if the hull is in good shape, not much repair/patch work to hide then you can throw a little extra reducer in the primer to help it flow/spray out better and it will cover more area also, just be carefull not to run it!
You can do the same with the sealer to make it lay out better but not as much. i usually add 10% more reducer or so depending on conditions and type of sealer i'm working with.
Hope this helps!

 

[2010brandingo]

PS: nice to see someone using the good stuff! LOL

 

[suva]

Going all out are we?

If you thin the crap out of the sealer like I do so it's easier to get it to lay flat (2-1-1) you could probably do both skis with one quart.

Out of curiosity, why are you using HOK primer?

 

[sjetrider]

If they are gel coat why not just seal and paint? Why prime?

 

[Matt_E]

Out of curiosity, why are you using HOK primer?

Because after spending what I'm spending on a hull, I won't cheap out on the paint. That also means I won't cheap out on the primer, because I want this paint job to look good and last.
I've seen what bad prep and cheap primer can do to an otherwise beautiful paint job, and I don't want to go that route.

 

[Matt_E]

If they are gel coat why not just seal and paint? Why prime?

Because I'd like to do it right and only once. :bigok:

 

[SUPERJET-113]

I cant help ya with what amounts you need, but you dont need to do all that primer and sealer work Matt if they are gel coat. Dont waste extra money and time.
220/400 DA sand gel coat, clean w/ wax/grease remover, tack rag, spray paint. It really is that simple painting on top of gel coat and will last...

Your hull is not made of metal and it doesnt need any kind of repair, its new for Christs sake!!
BTW - Congrats on the Baddass.

 

[sjetrider]

Hey Bro, sometimes too much is not a good thing LOL. I would seal and paint. Use good paint and the correct amount of hardener and be done.

 

[Matt_E]

Thanks for the advice folks.

 

[2010brandingo]

sealer is never a bad thing. its recomended that you seal to start any paint job regardless of what you are painting over. great choice on materials.

 

[Berky]

I'm a fan of Awlgrip 545 epoxy primer for a perfect job even on gel thats in good condition. It takes 1 quart to do light to med coat on a ski, more if you need to build or fill .

 

[Waternut]

I'm not familiar with that type of paint but in my experience, I've typically used almost a full quart of paint for one ski. The paint I use is thinned 8:2:1 (paint, thinner, hardener). That said, I do believe you can get 2-3 good wet coats on a ski with one quart. However, if you get a bad run, a gun malfunction, the gun is spraying heavier than you thought, or you hit something that ruins your paint...do you really want to have to order another quart of paint to make it look pretty again? I applaud you for going with what you believe to be the best but remember that a $2000 paint job with the bottom scraped up/unpainted looks worse than a $50 paint job with full hiding and can be touched up every year in an hour for no extra money.

 

[Matt_E]

I'll take the quality paint with some scratches on the bottom any day over cheap paint. Been there, done that.
One of the most impressive features of a quality paint job (example: Blowsion) is how consistently good it looks year after year after year. I have seem some skis every year from 2006 to present, and they still look awesome.
Besides, we're talking about a $250 difference in price here for materials. Spread out over at last three years, that's peanuts.

 

[Waternut]

I don't mean just light scratches on the bottom, I'm talking about the ones that look just ragged. Good paint or bad paint, none of them really hold up very long when you start dragging it across the sand and rocks. For the record, I'm also considering bad paint to be like acrylic enamel from TCPglobal that I used (which still looks amazing) and good paint being like a wetsanded PPG basecoat/clearcoat. Rattle can isn't even in the realm of my paint considerations. Berky does good work so I doubt you'll have any cracks or anything of the sort but I absolutely despise seeing an unpainted repair. That's all I'm really getting at.

 

[Matt_E]

How does using HOK rule out repairs?
It is in principle no different than the PPG base/clear you're talking about.

I'm quit aware of the rock dangers, that's why I bought myself a scissor stand specifically for this hull. Though it's primarily for protecting the hull, the paint is secondary.

PS: how much would your way of PPG products cost you in materials?

 

[Berky]

Base clears are the most glam , but two part single stage poly urethane is easier to repair and stronger thats why you don't see much base clear on yachts .

 

[Matt_E]

I've used single stage poly in the past, but it didn't work so well for a paint design that was more than just one color.

 

[2010brandingo]

I'll take the quality paint with some scratches on the bottom any day over cheap paint. Been there, done that.
One of the most impressive features of a quality paint job (example: Blowsion) is how consistently good it looks year after year after year. I have seem some skis every year from 2006 to present, and they still look awesome.
Besides, we're talking about a $250 difference in price here for materials. Spread out over at last three years, that's peanuts.

x2. over and over again. HOK and PPG are hands down the best and most user friendly of the base/clear variety when it comes to multi-color graffics. And even though House is much better (for many reasons) when it comes to multi-color schemes, PPG will probably run you a little more when its all said and done. And as far as the scratches on the bottom, you have to pay to play. Around my shop that just means its time to paint it again!

 

[Waternut]

We've gotten too far away from the purpose of my original post/recommendation and it's most likely because I wasn't being clear enough. I'm not trying to argue with your paint selection because I think you're doing good. The goal of my original post was to say... I think 2 quarts will be just enough to paint 2 ski's, so it is my recommendation that you buy 3. That way if something happens during the paint process or afterwards that needs to be touched up, your beautiful paint job won't be tainted while you search for more paint. If you don't have enough paint to finish, you can never have a quality paint job.