Super Jet How much HOK epoxy primer for a Superjet?

[SUPERJET-113]

You are priming because the gel coat has pin holes. Just come out and say it. If there were no pinholes in the gel coat you would not need to prime.

 

[Matt_E]

I'm priming because urethane paint and clearcoats dont bond to sandscratched surface--- they chemically bond to the underlayment primer.

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Oh, I gotcha. :biggrin:
In fact, Johnny's advice was this: if you gotta skimp and cut corners, buy the very best primer you can afford and rattle-can the color with krylon.

That has got to be the stupidest thing I ever heard....

 

[SUPERJET-113]

I'm priming because urethane paint and clearcoats dont bond to sandscratched surface--- they chemically bond to the underlayment primer.

Dont bond to a sand scratched surface??? BS

 

[Matt_E]

No offense Troy, but I'll take Blowsion's advice on painting over yours any day.

What are we arguing about here? $100 in primer for multi-year paint job. Really?

 

[SUPERJET-113]

No offense taken Matt.

For the last 15 years my sole means of support(besides gaskets for last few years) has been my business of fiberglass repair and refinishing. For 2 years before that I worked at a autobody shop.
I have painted countless ski's, boats, tubs/showers, etc. and they have all held up to the test of time. I guess I know nothing...

If you have new gel coat there is no reason to use primer/sealer unless there is a problem.

Im done here and like i said, no offense taken bud.

 

[Matt_E]

Fyi, I don't know that it makes a difference, but the Superfreak "gel coat" is am epoxy surface coast, not the traditional poly gel coat.

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Yes, that makes a big difference. Epoxy will chalk and degrade in UV rays over time, therefore it needs to be protected.
Im glad you now mentioned this Matt :biggrin:

 

[Matt_E]

Lol, sorry.....I'm a bonafide dumbazz

 

[SUPERJET-113]

Lol, sorry.....I'm a bonafide dumbazz

Nah, just left out one small technical detail!
Hey, epoxy is better that poly any day. Thats a good thing. Most peeps hear the words "gel coat" and 99% would think your talking about polyester gel coat. No biggy man.. Cant wait to see it. Have you got a preliminary design drawn up or what are your plans for the paint scheme?

 

[2010brandingo]

We've gotten too far away from the purpose of my original post/recommendation and it's most likely because I wasn't being clear enough. I'm not trying to argue with your paint selection because I think you're doing good. The goal of my original post was to say... I think 2 quarts will be just enough to paint 2 ski's, so it is my recommendation that you buy 3. That way if something happens during the paint process or afterwards that needs to be touched up, your beautiful paint job won't be tainted while you search for more paint. If you don't have enough paint to finish, you can never have a quality paint job.

having extra paint on hand is never a bad idea either. and yes, urethane paints will bond to a properly sanded surface (without primer/sealer...but not recomended), the chemical bond occures between the sealer and the base, not the primer. primer is used to fill any imperfections. that is why you must sand primer once it is cured and (most) epoxy sealers have a 24 hour-1 week window in witch they do not require sanding before the base is applied. personaly,if i don't hit the sealer with the base within 24-48 hours i will scuff the sealer with a grey scotch-brite pad to ensure a good bond.

 

[suva]

Cant wait to see it. Have you got a preliminary design drawn up or what are your plans for the paint scheme?

I'm curious about that too.

Are you gonna be spraying it?

 

[Matt_E]

A friend did a few designs for me. I'll post then up in a bit. Same friend has pretty nice equipment. It's going to be a joint effort.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I would seal and paint also, even though the gelcoat is new gelcoat is porous and in those pores can hide all kinds of nasty contaminates.Primer seals these pores so that contaminates do not seep out and cause fisheyes in you newly sprayed paint job, primer is cheap , paint is not, do it once,do it right and be done !

 

[Crab]

Terry what took so long.....we're 34 posts in?

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Yeah sorry I dropped the ball Crab at any rate scuff sand the epoxy surface coat, gelcoat whatever, then epoxy prime, if you don't run the primer you have a short window of 24-48 hrs where you can spray without having to rescuff, after that you will need to abrade the surface with a scotchbrite pad then spray the damn thing.Just in case there are any questions as to my credentials, I used to to do the repairs on new Yamaha and Seadoo watercraft that got damaged at the dealerships, I also did repairs on Mastercraft, Ski Nautiques and Cobalt boats and have Mastercraft , Seadoo and Cobalt gelcoat certs.

 

[Crab]

Glad your back, no sense wasting your wit on the useless threads....

 

[Matt_E]

Thanks for the advice, Terry.

 

[masterblaster]

How about using poly on the base color for strength,once cured then use the hok on subsequent colors for the scheme,being a surf boat a % of the time,there will be times you just have to run it up the beach some to avoid getting worked in shore breaks,why not just work a bit of white into the design on the very bottom flat part of the ski,when it wears off,its not as noticeable,you can also tape off the very bottom edge and hit it with white epoxy in a rattle can over the years,no one will notice the very bottom in anything other than inverted riding pics anyway.

It very hard to tell the diff between poly wetsanded to 1500 and bc done the same way,one is just much more abrasion and chip resistant than the other

 

[WFO Speedracer]

How about using poly on the base color for strength,once cured then use the hok on subsequent colors for the scheme,being a surf boat a % of the time,there will be times you just have to run it up the beach some to avoid getting worked in shore breaks,why not just work a bit of white into the design on the very bottom flat part of the ski,when it wears off,its not as noticeable,you can also tape off the very bottom edge and hit it with white epoxy in a rattle can over the years,no one will notice the very bottom in anything other than inverted riding pics anyway.

It very hard to tell the diff between poly wetsanded to 1500 and bc done the same way,one is just much more abrasion and chip resistant than the other

That would be a negative, you have to stick with a paint system, mixing and matching can get you into a world of hurt very quickly, ask GM about that, all the older GM cars you see with paint peeling off in sheets is because GM went with the lowest price bid, not taking into account how one paint component would work with another. HOK is great paint but it is finicky, the paint has what is called an open time, you have a window wherein the paint is not fully cured but it can be taped over and another color sprayed on to of it, as long as you are operating in this ( open time) each layer of paint chemically bond with the layer below it to chemically link together. You can also let the paint fully cure and scuff the base coat and spray over it or you can use a different hardener to increase or decrease the open time of the paint. It really depends on how exotic of a paint job you are attempting and how many different colors or effects you are going with. I used Kirker Spectra series on that 300sx I did , its basically a HOK candy knockoff and sprays very similarly but its way cheaper than HOK, I believe I had less than $150.00 shipped to my door in supplies with two paint colors , a silver base and clear.It has held up extremely well thus far.