Hull inserts, replacing/adding trim tube - best methods & materials?

Bought a gen 2 bob that currently uses a Kawi powerplant and pump. I'd like to convert everything over to Yamaha.

Obviously drilling the appropriate sized holes and the right location for my setup is going to be the most important, but I was wondering what are some good adhesives and/or methods for installation? I have the right tooling, just curious on how to get the inserts secured while keeping the threads clean. I do plan on flipping the ski over for pump side repairs.

I'm also going to be replacing some plumbing on the inside, adding another 3/8 or replacing one with a 1/2". Any good methods for that?

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DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
When I add inserts i push a earplug into the threads to keep them clean or thread a bolt in with grease on the bottom face so the adhesive doesn’t stick.
I prefer to use 3m panelbond because it’s stupid strong but it isn’t cheap.

The lines in my freak were stainless and a giant pain in the ass to work with. You could go that route and use a hand bender. I’m going to change over to pex and see how that would work with stainless thru hull fittings.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Packing with Clay or wax are both options. Leaving a waxed bolt in can work too.

On a piece of my tray I could access both sides, I waxed the bolt and bolted it in from the outside then covered it from the inside.

I didn’t do a trim tube but I did a cooling tube. I used thickened epoxy for that.

They do make a product for cleaning aluminum so it doesn’t immediately oxidize. The oxidation negatively affects the bond. Granted for a trim tube it’s not necessary. It’s a powder.
 

holygoat

Site Supporter
Location
Indiana, USA
When I add inserts i push a earplug into the threads to keep them clean or thread a bolt in with grease on the bottom face so the adhesive doesn’t stick.
I prefer to use 3m panelbond because it’s stupid strong but it isn’t cheap.

The lines in my freak were stainless and a giant pain in the ass to work with. You could go that route and use a hand bender. I’m going to change over to pex and see how that would work with stainless thru hull fittings.
Love the pex idea. Did you go through with it?
 

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
Love the pex idea. Did you go through with it?
Currently on second season of reinforced water line w/stainless clamps on my circus but it was more of a temporary fix and I never ride salt. Planning on opening it up and going to pex soon just haven’t had the time. I would think pex A would be easier to work with because it’s more flexible and would be easier to fit over fittings the way it’s installed as opposed to having to get a crimping tool into the hull and worrying about the crimps rotting away with pex b. Have used PVC/fittings for steering the steering cable many times, the 1/2” females thread directly onto the thru hull fitting for the steering cable.
 

holygoat

Site Supporter
Location
Indiana, USA
I'm thinking about cutting open the tray on my old WDK for foam, if I do so I'm going to do bulkhead fittings each side with pex between I think. I never ride salt either but I wouldn't expect pex to be a problem?
 

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
I'm thinking about cutting open the tray on my old WDK for foam, if I do so I'm going to do bulkhead fittings each side with pex between I think. I never ride salt either but I wouldn't expect pex to be a problem?
The problem with salt isn’t with the pex it’s with the thru hull fittings and the clamps if you decide to use them. I was considering using plastic thru hull fittings with pex a for a totally metal free setup but I think the plastic would get brittle pretty fast and break. You can also get the special thru hulls that are made of some sort of special brass? I believe or so I’ve heard guys talk about on here that are supposed to be premo for salt.
For freshwater you can get away with a lot more but it’s always nice to make it right for the next guy if he uses the ski for salt.

The only thing that can be a pain with thru hull fittings is the lack of space on some skis to get the fitting mounted and the nut tightened. It was very tight on my superfreaks. A lot harder than just pushing stainless lines thru and sealing from the inside. If you ever decide to use stainless I have tons and tons of it in different sizes you are more than welcome to some.
 

holygoat

Site Supporter
Location
Indiana, USA
The problem with salt isn’t with the pex it’s with the thru hull fittings and the clamps if you decide to use them. I was considering using plastic thru hull fittings with pex a for a totally metal free setup but I think the plastic would get brittle pretty fast and break. You can also get the special thru hulls that are made of some sort of special brass? I believe or so I’ve heard guys talk about on here that are supposed to be premo for salt.
For freshwater you can get away with a lot more but it’s always nice to make it right for the next guy if he uses the ski for salt.

The only thing that can be a pain with thru hull fittings is the lack of space on some skis to get the fitting mounted and the nut tightened. It was very tight on my superfreaks. A lot harder than just pushing stainless lines thru and sealing from the inside. If you ever decide to use stainless I have tons and tons of it in different sizes you are more than welcome to some.
Appreciate the guidance thank you. My thru hull lines are a complex curve that I would dread to replicate with a hand bender and stainless. Currently they're 3/8 aluminium but I want to sort it all out and upsize to 1/2, getting my trim cable thru is a pain with the bend and the radius. I will send some pictures later tonight if I remember.
 

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
Appreciate the guidance thank you. My thru hull lines are a complex curve that I would dread to replicate with a hand bender and stainless. Currently they're 3/8 aluminium but I want to sort it all out and upsize to 1/2, getting my trim cable thru is a pain with the bend and the radius. I will send some pictures later tonight if I remember.
Always remember to dry fit your cables before you close your ski up or you’ll end up like me and not be able to get the cable thru after closing the ski up haha. Trust me bending the stainless isn’t so bad if you do decide to go that way.
 
I used pex when i added a 2bd cooling line in my old 550 years ago and it held up fine. I didn't even get fancy with brass or stainless thru hull fittings just ran the pen through and sealed it up on both exterior ends with thickened epoxy. Such as gflex
 
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