dragginblazer
Do Good Jetski Crew
- Location
- North Richland Hills, TX
that aint gonna work!
I know this is kinda out there, but...
- Thread starter swapmeet
- Start date
Great explanation behind your statement...
Considering he looks to be a trucker guy himself, I would assume he taking the mickey so to speak!
Dustin Mustangs
uʍop ǝpıs dn
- Location
- Holland, MI
As drawn above, if you don't vac bag that layup it will be full of voids. If you are set on using aluminum, us it as a temporary external mold that can be popped off once the glass cures. It certainly won't be helping strength any so there is no point in making it a permanent part of the hull unless you need to.
Attachments
Last edited:
sjetrider
615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
- Location
- in the 615 (Nashville)
this is 100% correct. Do like Waternut says and prototype with aluminum. Once you get the form you want figured out then make a 2 part mold with aluminum and lay glass on top side of bottom mold then clamp the top mold to that and let it set up. Unclamp, trim to your liking and glass it to the hull. This is more work then you think if you want it to look good in the end as it will need glassed to sound surface a minimum of 2" on top and bottom of bondline to make it structural enough to tollerate the force a larger bondine will take. So lots of sanding and flaring involved. Then paint it, no way you wanna deal with attempting to regelcoat that, would be a nightmare and expensive as you will need patchaide in the gel coat and that is not fun to work with nor is it cheap.
I knew as soon as I saw this thread your were looking at the XFS and the new Superfreaker has a simular thing going on in the rear.
I knew as soon as I saw this thread your were looking at the XFS and the new Superfreaker has a simular thing going on in the rear.
As drawn above, if you don't vac bag that layup it will be full of voids. If you are set on using aluminum, us it as a temporary external mold that can be popped off once the glass cures. It certainly won't be helping strength any so there is no point in making it a permanent part of the hull unless you need to.
swapmeet
Brotastic
- Location
- Arlington TX
I don't know what "taking the mickey" means, but yeah thats the guy who got me into this crap LOL... He's just being a hater like normal.
- Location
- Arnold MO.
I too am new to fiberglass but one point not really touched on is the fact that the fiberglass will flex and the metal wont, I would think that would cause cracking or outright breakage if it does flex at all. I could be completely wrong but thats the first thing that comes to mind. Just be sure to share the results however you do it...
Nice truck BTW, Ive never seen a mini truck/rat rod/import theme before. deff have some cool points just because of the rare factor.
Nice truck BTW, Ive never seen a mini truck/rat rod/import theme before. deff have some cool points just because of the rare factor.
swapmeet
Brotastic
- Location
- Arlington TX
I understand what your saying about the flexing, but i won't be using anything that thick.
I'm talking about sheetmetal, thin... bends easier than fiberglass of a comparable thickness. Does that help?
I'm talking about sheetmetal, thin... bends easier than fiberglass of a comparable thickness. Does that help?
chriselmore_1
high on resin
- Location
- san jose ca
what exactly are you trying to achieve? just looks?
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Truefully as long as you are using regular glass and epoxy resin you could do it either way,like you said swiss cheese the aluminum and take it one step further, rough up the whole surface of the aluminum with a grinding disc for better adhesion. Encapsulating aluminum with fiberglass is nothing new,its how engine mounts and some ride plate inserts are made.
Now as far as the regelcoating goes, you do not have to use patchaid, you can use PVA sprayed on top of the gelcoat, you can get gelcoat with a wax additive in it, you can get wax additive and add it to the gelcoat yourself or you can use Duratec clear mixed in with the final coat at a 50/50 ratio. Any of those methods will allow the gelcoat to air cure properly.
Now as far as the regelcoating goes, you do not have to use patchaid, you can use PVA sprayed on top of the gelcoat, you can get gelcoat with a wax additive in it, you can get wax additive and add it to the gelcoat yourself or you can use Duratec clear mixed in with the final coat at a 50/50 ratio. Any of those methods will allow the gelcoat to air cure properly.
swapmeet
Brotastic
- Location
- Arlington TX
See posts #14 & 16.
My goal is to add a little more stability and surface area to the sides of the ski to help counter any negative effects of shortening the hull in the rear.
I may not do this at all, as I am currently working on buying another members hull that is chock full'o mods. But after a couple rides, if it feels like it could use this, I will defintely do it and take lots of photos etc. It think it'll be fine.