I need help learnin to glass

BombThreat

'Diggity
Location
Johnstown, NY
I did some glass works last year with no prior experience and it showed for sure. I installed footholds and glassed them in, I had a strong feeling I wasn't doing it right... I started cutting into the tray today and there was literally a small pond in the tray. Also I attempted a yamaslut hood mod and the glass just is not sticking to any surfaces. I can pull the glass off without much trouble. I really need some help here guys.. I dont have anyone local to help show the ropes and I want to do this overhaul right and not have to do it again.
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Okay first off what are you using for resin,epoxy resin is the only way to go here ,I won't get into what kind as that always brings out the opinionators here.You need the surface prepped correctly that means well scuffed with like 36 grit sandpaper or ground out with a grinder,then wipe it down with acetone when you are done,you need to have proper tooth for proper adhesion to take place.As for working the cloth you can use small disposable paintbrushes or foam rollers to saturate the cloth and work the air bubbles out,if you want to get really good results invest in a fiberglass roller.Now the main thing you need is practice and patience,those two things I cannot help you with.
 

BombThreat

'Diggity
Location
Johnstown, NY
Okay first off what are you using for resin,epoxy resin is the only way to go here ,I won't get into what kind as that always brings out the opinionators here.You need the surface prepped correctly that means well scuffed with like 36 grit sandpaper or ground out with a grinder,then wipe it down with acetone when you are done,you need to have proper tooth for proper adhesion to take place.As for working the cloth you can use small disposable paintbrushes or foam rollers to saturate the cloth and work the air bubbles out,if you want to get really good results invest in a fiberglass roller.Now the main thing you need is practice and patience,those two things I cannot help you with.


Yes I am using US composites epoxy system with the 3:1 pumps. So im sure the mixtures were correct and I have the right resins... As for surface prep I did exactly what you explained, I either sanded first or I had already hit the surface with a grinder. Also wiping clean, but i think it was with alcohol. \

The way I prepped the glass was lay it out on a flat surface and pour some resin on it and spread it around with a bondo type spreader... I did squeegee the glass quite abit to not "waste or add too much weight" Is it possible I squeezed too much resin out? I did make sure that all the glass looked "wet" before applying it
 
I spread the resin onto the surface, layed glass down, the spread resin ontop ofglass, and evenly spread it around, pushing from center outwards, removing some of the resin. You can tell when there is not enough on an area, fibers stick up and the glass wont lay flat. Also figuring how much is necessary for the amount your doing is key, too much and you get puddles, too little and doesnt stick good.
 
Yes I am using US composites epoxy system with the 3:1 pumps. So im sure the mixtures were correct and I have the right resins... As for surface prep I did exactly what you explained, I either sanded first or I had already hit the surface with a grinder. Also wiping clean, but i think it was with alcohol.

The way I prepped the glass was lay it out on a flat surface and pour some resin on it and spread it around with a bondo type spreader... I did squeegee the glass quite abit to not "waste or add too much weight" Is it possible I squeezed too much resin out? I did make sure that all the glass looked "wet" before applying it


Did you apply resin to the glass and then just lay it? That's what your post sounded like to me. Sounds like you might not have had enough resin.

When I did it, I applied resin to the surface where the glass was to be laid. I then applied the glass and then with a resin-wet brush, brushed and tapped the glass until it was thoroughly wet. I then let it cure. That was the first time I had done any....and with the guidance of someone who had already done it...my glass job has held up fantastically for a year.
 
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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
It should work either way,whether you wet out the glass first or not really won't matter,I do it different ways depending on the job.
 

meatball

User Title Unavailable
Location
Maryland
heres a few tips Ive learned after building a 16 foot boat.

  • First, prepare the surface (40 or lower grit, beltsander type stuff.)
  • Make sure the surface you're adhearing to, is either SMC, (white when prepped), or metton (black and makes orange dust when sanding when paint is completely off) [this is, for skis...]
  • Next (this helps a lot) wet out the surfaces with epoxy, just brush it over, wet it then stick the fiberglass on. With small patches, a brush is good. I dont use squegees, I find that I cant get good results with them. Rollers are your best friend for big surfaces, plus a cheap disposable brush
  • ROLL IT! this means that you want to get the glass really close to the surface its adhering to. So, get a roller, or a good brush and work at it. Practice on some pieces before you go big. Its a learning experience
  • Use a user friendly system! I know everyone is looking for the best bargain, however if you are new I whole-heartedly recommend West Systems. And heres the reason, they explain their product and how to use it and fix things, online. Also, you can call them with problems like this and they will help troubleshoot. While other epoxies may work just as good, it might be more helpful for you to start out on a system that has great customer service. They back their product and explain things pretty good.

After it starts to tack dont touch or adjust anything or you compromise it. Only glass in appropriate temperatures, dont mix brands, and CERTAINLY do NOT ever mix two different hardeners to try and get it to kick slower or faster.

Experience is key, its hard to start out, but its not too hard.

Check this website out
http://www.westsystem.com/

mainly this
http://www.westsystem.com/frames/tier2/usingepoxy/usermanual.htm


By the way, I forgot the most important tip. WEAR GLOVES! Dont ever let it touch your skin. Repeated exposure makes you build an allergic reaction, so you could prevent yourself from physically being able to glass.

-Kevin
 

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
I never use acetone to do the final wipe for the prep work. Reason being is that acetone may wipe off fine oils from your fingers, but that's about it. I use brake part cleaner instead... it's a strong ass degreaser and it is a better solvent for adhesives and what not than acetone.
 

BombThreat

'Diggity
Location
Johnstown, NY
are you using cloth or mat,I find cloth much easier to deal with and get to lay down.,

It was 6oz S2 cloth, by the way thanks for all the helpful tips and advice. I would try west systems but I already ordered all my supplies and I did get rollers this time! Im going to make sure I prep the surface, get it clean and get a little more resin on the cloth... I try that out small and hopefully it improves
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
The nice thing about glass work is you really can't screw it up.if its totally wacked grind it off and start over no harm done.
 

meatball

User Title Unavailable
Location
Maryland
dont even mention acetone! First off, it causes dermatitis when you repeatedly come in contact with it. Plus, acetone is for cleaning epoxy off, if theres any residue or wet spots (hard to due since the low boiling temp but...) it will make a weak bond.

I use a damp towel water only, just to remove the dust, unless theres some kind of residue or goo.
 

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
dont even mention acetone! First off, it causes dermatitis when you repeatedly come in contact with it. Plus, acetone is for cleaning epoxy off, if theres any residue or wet spots (hard to due since the low boiling temp but...) it will make a weak bond.

I use a damp towel water only, just to remove the dust, unless theres some kind of residue or goo.

Yea, the brake cleaner takes longer to dry, but I always hit everything with a heat gun to make sure it's 100% dried out.
 

vitaly

Анархия - мать порядка!
Location
NY/NJ
are you using cloth or mat,I find cloth much easier to deal with and get to lay down.,

I did exactly what you explained, I either sanded first or I had already hit the surface with a grinder. Also wiping clean, but i think it was with alcohol.

It should work either way,whether you wet out the glass first or not really won't matter,I do it different ways depending on the job.

heres a few tips Ive learned.

  • First, prepare the surface
  • Make sure the surface you're adhearing to
  • Next (this helps a lot) wet out the surfaces
  • ROLL IT! Its a learning experience
  • Use a user friendly system! I know everyone is looking for the best bargain. While other may work just as good, it might be more helpful for you to start out on a system that has great customer service. They back their product and explain things pretty good.

After it starts to tack dont touch or adjust anything or you compromise it. dont mix brands, and CERTAINLY do NOT ever mix two different hardeners to try and get it to kick slower or faster.

Experience is key, its hard to start out, but its not too hard.


By the way, I forgot the most important tip. WEAR GLOVES! Dont ever let it touch your skin. Repeated exposure makes you build an allergic reaction.

-Kevin

The nice thing about work is you really can't screw it up.if its totally wacked grind it off and start over no harm done.

I think you guys are pervs!
 
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