Hello is there anybody listening?
Freestyle Impeller spacer question (should or shouldn't?)
- Thread starter pigpen
- Start date
Hello is there anybody listening?
- Location
- Reno,NV
We ran our skis at 5500 Feet with a 11/17 for a 771 cc BB and or 10/16 for a ported 760 ,We always left the stock spacer in place for other reasons than just spacing ,
I think you should post some further variables to know exactly on how to even give any advise....
Pump size, engine , exit nozzle size, end nozzle size , and your cone size, intake grate ?
John's post pretty much sums everything else up !
I think you should post some further variables to know exactly on how to even give any advise....
Pump size, engine , exit nozzle size, end nozzle size , and your cone size, intake grate ?
John's post pretty much sums everything else up !
Stock 144 pump, wet wolf stubby cone, 9/15 hooker, stock nozzle and exit bore, 781 62t/61x, ported and epoxied cases, ported cylinder, lightened flywheel, stock electronics, ported b-pipe, dual 38's with chokes removed, no intake grate (rokr)
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- Location
- Reno,NV
that's very close to what I ran with the 771 ....we ran 11/17 hooker but an alternate was 8/13 .....
the 9/15 was ok but did not hook properly at that elevation with the stubby cone , I defiantly would try the stock cone as an option.
the 9/15 was ok but did not hook properly at that elevation with the stubby cone , I defiantly would try the stock cone as an option.
I will try the stock cone after I see what the spacer removal has done if anything this spring when I can ride again. I was gonna opt for the 10/16 but everything I read about my elevation made it seem like the 9/15 was a better choice.
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- Location
- the jetski grave yard
like Ziggy said, prop as close to veins means max efficiency. prop spaced forward means slippage, just like huge bored out nozzle lessens efficiency. a 144 pump with a huge bored reduction nozzle is not the right ratio. screwing up the reduction process is a step in the wrong direction. make the prop the right pitch for the stator to nozzle size and the pump will be as efficient as it can be and create the most thrust.
- Location
- Portland, Oregon
Hey. I realize this is an old post, but I think that’s what I’m experiencing now. My impeller keeps locking to the pump.I wonder if it is not an issue with power delivery (engine response/holeshot/bottom end) as much as it is pump efficiency (hookup and processing). A nice little free mod that will help a good bit with hookup is blueprinting the stator section of the pump. All those little casting bosses, rounded edges on the vanes and the rough textured finish make for a lot of bubbles and water separation. If you look at your pump stream about 15-20 feet behind you when going from low speed to immediate full open, and you see larger bubbles surfacing instead of millions of little ones it means you are boiling the water from over spinning or under-loading your prop. A shot pump seal, worn out wear ring, worn out impeller, or too low of a pitched impeller will do this and likewise reduce hookup quite noticeably. I am running a Hooker 9/15 with blueprinted pump and R&D pump stuffer to compliment the large hub impeller and love it. No issues with pump efficiency at all. I also recently changed out my stock reduction nozzle with a Protec 85.5mm exit diameter and gained a little bit more
Oh I should also mention, I had to include 2mm of shims behind the stock rubber coated OEM shim. The only reason was because when tightened up the impeller would lock up the pump, it required two 1mm shims installed for the impeller to spin freely, I left it at that. Like john zigler mentioned, I wanted to keep my impeller as close to the vanes as possible for maximum efficiency.
I’ve got the rubber coated oem shim and some stainless steel ones in 1mm increments.
Did you put the oem one on top of or underneath the stainless steel ones?(underneath being against the pump seal or on top being against the impeller)
Thx
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
When I installed the shims I did it with the rubber coated impeller seal in the impeller as it would be from an oem install and then the 1mm shims 
- Location
- Portland, Oregon
Thank you! much appreciated.When I installed the shims I did it with the rubber coated impeller seal in the impeller as it would be from an oem install and then the 1mm shims